Those hoses last the life of the car.
Radiator hoses... how many years are they safe?
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I never had a rubber hose problem/failure and never had to replace one before I got rid of my cars, lets see:
datsun 13 years
renault 11 years
nissan 11 years
mazda 10 years
subaru 6 years
toyota 11 years
toyota 8 years
toyota 7 years
toyota 5 years
saturn also looks like OEM rubber at 12 years
So, for me answer is never or > 13 years
datsun 13 years
renault 11 years
nissan 11 years
mazda 10 years
subaru 6 years
toyota 11 years
toyota 8 years
toyota 7 years
toyota 5 years
saturn also looks like OEM rubber at 12 years
So, for me answer is never or > 13 years
Inspect them and look for weak points. Otherwise I would not change them. I do not like to wire spring clamps that seem to cut into hoses so those get replaced ASAP. This is what I find usually causes a failure these wire spring clamps bite into the hose causing a weak spot and a leak forms.
The newer EPDM hoses last a very long time.often the life of the car.
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
Originally Posted By: ronbo
Use to change them in the past on my US built vehicles but since I've been buying Japanese made vehicles, haven't in the last 15 years. I feel the Japanese vehicles use higher quality parts.
Way to be naive and ignorant much?
Now days I would imagine ALL car mfgs hoses are much better. Reminds me of when I got out of college I got my first decent car, a 4 year old 1983 Toyota Celica. Drove it for 12 years and then at 175K miles, I was concerned that the hoses were looking old. So I picked up the lower and upper hose and went to change them out. I drained the system and took off the original hoses. I inspected them and compared them to the new aftermarket hoses and came to the conclusion that the OE hoses, after 175K were still better than the new hoses. They were more robust feeling, thicker in wall etc. So being the cheap guy I am, I threw them right back on and never changed them, sold the car 4 years later. There was a period of time, back in the early to mid 80's when the components of the Japanese cars was superior to the domestics. I doubt that is the case today, especially with globalization. But back then, after having MANY domestic cars, it was a real eye opener just how good a car could be. That car was the first I owned with fuel injection and that too was a revelation. Never had a fuel related problem.
Originally Posted By: ronbo
Use to change them in the past on my US built vehicles but since I've been buying Japanese made vehicles, haven't in the last 15 years. I feel the Japanese vehicles use higher quality parts.
Way to be naive and ignorant much?
Now days I would imagine ALL car mfgs hoses are much better. Reminds me of when I got out of college I got my first decent car, a 4 year old 1983 Toyota Celica. Drove it for 12 years and then at 175K miles, I was concerned that the hoses were looking old. So I picked up the lower and upper hose and went to change them out. I drained the system and took off the original hoses. I inspected them and compared them to the new aftermarket hoses and came to the conclusion that the OE hoses, after 175K were still better than the new hoses. They were more robust feeling, thicker in wall etc. So being the cheap guy I am, I threw them right back on and never changed them, sold the car 4 years later. There was a period of time, back in the early to mid 80's when the components of the Japanese cars was superior to the domestics. I doubt that is the case today, especially with globalization. But back then, after having MANY domestic cars, it was a real eye opener just how good a car could be. That car was the first I owned with fuel injection and that too was a revelation. Never had a fuel related problem.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Linked below are pics of the original hoses (next to new oem) I replaced on an 01 Civic last year, ~13&1/2 years old. Honestly they still felt pliable and not blown out or mushy. Could have reused them, but as long as the radiator and t'stat were being replaced made sense to complete the job. So longer than the radiator in that case. Still have original hoses on an 01 Tacoma with ~148k miles.
So the hoses are good for quite a long time in my experience.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3282728/01_Civic_Radiator_Replacement_
Thats a good point, similar to the thread about changing water pumps when doing timing belts... If things are coming apart anyway, and it seems like they original hoses hve had a reasonable life, then its probably sensible.
I wouldnt necessarily change 30k mile hoses on a two year old car just because a rock took out the radiator. But if the time has come and there is more than 100k, its probably smart...
Linked below are pics of the original hoses (next to new oem) I replaced on an 01 Civic last year, ~13&1/2 years old. Honestly they still felt pliable and not blown out or mushy. Could have reused them, but as long as the radiator and t'stat were being replaced made sense to complete the job. So longer than the radiator in that case. Still have original hoses on an 01 Tacoma with ~148k miles.
So the hoses are good for quite a long time in my experience.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3282728/01_Civic_Radiator_Replacement_
Thats a good point, similar to the thread about changing water pumps when doing timing belts... If things are coming apart anyway, and it seems like they original hoses hve had a reasonable life, then its probably sensible.
I wouldnt necessarily change 30k mile hoses on a two year old car just because a rock took out the radiator. But if the time has come and there is more than 100k, its probably smart...
I've unclamped 15 year old hoses and made a point to reclamp them somewhere fresh. One can see the "dent" in the old.
Some paranoid sorts smear RTV inside old hose before reattaching. Might help with porous pot metal thermostat outlets, I guess.
Some paranoid sorts smear RTV inside old hose before reattaching. Might help with porous pot metal thermostat outlets, I guess.
I about ran my car out of coolant the other day. One of the small quarter inch lines let go. Not the big ones to the radiator but a small one. Diesel fuel got on it. Hose is kinda tucked out of the way. I wonder if washing th engine every so often would have helped. Anyhow, if you are checking, check all the hoses. Any one of them can strand you.
ls1mike
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Trans Am has the originals as does the Grand Prix.
I did the Trucks radiator ones last season because of the extremes it sees when towing. The top one was a bit soft. The lower one was like new.
I also did the oil cooler lines. Had a local shop makes some for me. The stock ones always seep where the metal is compressed to the rubber.
I did the Trucks radiator ones last season because of the extremes it sees when towing. The top one was a bit soft. The lower one was like new.
I also did the oil cooler lines. Had a local shop makes some for me. The stock ones always seep where the metal is compressed to the rubber.
I have seen hoses on 60's and 70's cars that were fine. I think it just depends on miles and also condition. If they are pliable and pass the look test, then I leave them.
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: spackard
Do you gamble with the hoses on your angle stops in your house, or do you just go through every 7 years and replace all of them?
I've replaced the hoses on my Maytag washing machine twice in the past 18 years. I've seen the damage that a $7 burst washing machine hose can create.
It's easy enough to turn off the water to the hose when you are not washing clothes.
Originally Posted By: spackard
Do you gamble with the hoses on your angle stops in your house, or do you just go through every 7 years and replace all of them?
I've replaced the hoses on my Maytag washing machine twice in the past 18 years. I've seen the damage that a $7 burst washing machine hose can create.
It's easy enough to turn off the water to the hose when you are not washing clothes.
[Trans Am has the originals as does the Grand Prix.
I did the Trucks radiator ones last season because of the extremes it sees when towing. The top one was a bit soft. The lower one was like new.
I also did the oil cooler lines. Had a local shop makes some for me. The stock ones always seep where the metal is compressed to the rubber.]
not sure what extremes you are talking about. Even when towing the radiator hoses should never experience any difference in temperature. If they were, you would be over-heating.
I did the Trucks radiator ones last season because of the extremes it sees when towing. The top one was a bit soft. The lower one was like new.
I also did the oil cooler lines. Had a local shop makes some for me. The stock ones always seep where the metal is compressed to the rubber.]
not sure what extremes you are talking about. Even when towing the radiator hoses should never experience any difference in temperature. If they were, you would be over-heating.
Last edited:
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted By: philipp10
[Trans Am has the originals as does the Grand Prix.
I did the Trucks radiator ones last season because of the extremes it sees when towing. The top one was a bit soft. The lower one was like new.
I also did the oil cooler lines. Had a local shop makes some for me. The stock ones always seep where the metal is compressed to the rubber.]
not sure what extremes you are talking about. Even when towing the radiator hoses should never experience any difference in temperature. If they were, you would be over-heating.
The ambient temp in the engine compartment rises quiet a bit as the exhaust manifolds heat up from being run at 4000 RPM I am not talking about coolant here. That is why trucks that tow are hard on exhaust manifolds and bolts. That heat takes a while to dissipate. That is why you will hear some 5.4 Ford, 6.0 Chevys, 460s, 454s, 8.1's and V-10s that tow often with an exhaust tick, the heat has warped a manifold or broken a bolt. All this heat is in the engine compartment. You can't think one dimensional when towing.
Ever pop the hood on an old big block that just got done doing a long run, say 5 miles up hill and look at the manifolds? When towing heavy they will glow, it was more common with the carbed motors.
[Trans Am has the originals as does the Grand Prix.
I did the Trucks radiator ones last season because of the extremes it sees when towing. The top one was a bit soft. The lower one was like new.
I also did the oil cooler lines. Had a local shop makes some for me. The stock ones always seep where the metal is compressed to the rubber.]
not sure what extremes you are talking about. Even when towing the radiator hoses should never experience any difference in temperature. If they were, you would be over-heating.
The ambient temp in the engine compartment rises quiet a bit as the exhaust manifolds heat up from being run at 4000 RPM I am not talking about coolant here. That is why trucks that tow are hard on exhaust manifolds and bolts. That heat takes a while to dissipate. That is why you will hear some 5.4 Ford, 6.0 Chevys, 460s, 454s, 8.1's and V-10s that tow often with an exhaust tick, the heat has warped a manifold or broken a bolt. All this heat is in the engine compartment. You can't think one dimensional when towing.
Ever pop the hood on an old big block that just got done doing a long run, say 5 miles up hill and look at the manifolds? When towing heavy they will glow, it was more common with the carbed motors.
If one wishes to change them for peace of mind at some set interval, there's certainly no reason for me to dissuade them. I do tend to run them to failure, unless I'm doing a bunch of other cooling system maintenance. The F-150 and taxis were run until failure. When I changed the thermostat and one hose on the Audi, I changed the rest at the same time, partially because getting the parts online gave me free shipping.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: spackard
Do you gamble with the hoses on your angle stops in your house, or do you just go through every 7 years and replace all of them?
I've replaced the hoses on my Maytag washing machine twice in the past 18 years. I've seen the damage that a $7 burst washing machine hose can create.
It's easy enough to turn off the water to the hose when you are not washing clothes.
Yeah, I'd rather buy a new pair of hoses every now and then. It is easier than moving the washing machine every time I want to use it.
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: spackard
Do you gamble with the hoses on your angle stops in your house, or do you just go through every 7 years and replace all of them?
I've replaced the hoses on my Maytag washing machine twice in the past 18 years. I've seen the damage that a $7 burst washing machine hose can create.
It's easy enough to turn off the water to the hose when you are not washing clothes.
Yeah, I'd rather buy a new pair of hoses every now and then. It is easier than moving the washing machine every time I want to use it.
Run silicone hoses, and you'll never have to ask.
Hose life varies from vehicle to vehicle. Some will go for half of forever, and others are good at eliminating them quite quickly.
Any time I have serviced a difficult to reach hose, like the under manifold bypass on my old Dodge van, I have used silicone as a replacement.
Alternatively, I have used braided stainless with AN fittings, and solid flex stainless. The former is necessary on my Charger, because I run a 36 psi system put together with pirated NASCAR components.
Hose life varies from vehicle to vehicle. Some will go for half of forever, and others are good at eliminating them quite quickly.
Any time I have serviced a difficult to reach hose, like the under manifold bypass on my old Dodge van, I have used silicone as a replacement.
Alternatively, I have used braided stainless with AN fittings, and solid flex stainless. The former is necessary on my Charger, because I run a 36 psi system put together with pirated NASCAR components.
people tend to neglect bypass and heater core hoses which are equally as important.
If one of those burst, it will yield the same results as a radiator hose. So don't neglect those!
I say change your hoses every 8-10 years to be safe.
If one of those burst, it will yield the same results as a radiator hose. So don't neglect those!
I say change your hoses every 8-10 years to be safe.
I replaced all my hoses in 2008, they were 25 years old and had 40,000 mils on them.
Some had started to bulge, others had started to weep, I just replaced the whole lot in one hit. The new hoses should be good till I retire!!
Some had started to bulge, others had started to weep, I just replaced the whole lot in one hit. The new hoses should be good till I retire!!
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
people tend to neglect bypass and heater core hoses which are equally as important.
If one of those burst, it will yield the same results as a radiator hose. So don't neglect those!
I say change your hoses every 8-10 years to be safe.
Yep, and don't forget all the little hoses! My stickshift car has several small ones, oil cooler, EGR cooler, who knows where else; my truck has more feet of small diam hose than I'd care to find out, for ATF heater, EGR cooler and who knows what else.
people tend to neglect bypass and heater core hoses which are equally as important.
If one of those burst, it will yield the same results as a radiator hose. So don't neglect those!
I say change your hoses every 8-10 years to be safe.
Yep, and don't forget all the little hoses! My stickshift car has several small ones, oil cooler, EGR cooler, who knows where else; my truck has more feet of small diam hose than I'd care to find out, for ATF heater, EGR cooler and who knows what else.
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