Manual transmission additive help

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Originally Posted By: stroked93
Anything I can put in my 97f150 manual with the aft to get smoother shifts? Trans is a Mazda unit and high miles just hard to get into 1st from a stop.


I had that problem several times with my 1989 F-150 with the Mazda 5 speed also. It was the clutch slave cylinder not functioning properly. It's a common problem with these Ford trucks and a real pain and expense to fix. It is a bad design, the slave cylinder is internal and the transmission needs to be removed to get at it. As far as shifting once you get going I've found that MTF's work much better than ATF's. I'm using RP SyncroMax and it's been far better for "smoother" shifting compared to the ATF. There are other good MTF's such as Amsoil & Redline out there. Just don't go with a real viscous fluid, stay with a syncromesh type MTF. It's approximately the the viscosity of ATF so it'll shift easier in the cold temps.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
The M5OD uses atf, period. Mercon V or you can use older dex/merc if you want to save some dough.

Redline stays with this spec using D4 ATF.


I have an M5OD tranny in my E-150 and plan on using Maxlife ATF this spring/summer when I change it.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
The M5OD uses atf, period. Mercon V or you can use older dex/merc if you want to save some dough.

Redline stays with this spec using D4 ATF.


I have an M5OD tranny in my E-150 and plan on using Maxlife ATF this spring/summer when I change it.


Just say no to ATFs in an MTX!
 
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This and a good manual GL-4 transmission fluid are all i would try. MoS2 and GL-5 scare me in a manual with sycro's.

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-197/LUBEGARD+Gear+Fluid+Supplement
 
The bearings in the M5OD are splash lubed.On top of that the oiling slots, ports, holes etc,.. are small why?..IDK. Thats the way Mazda/Ford wanted it.

Next,the fluid needs to be thin enough to get out of the way to let the tapers/synchros slow the shaft and clutch disc.Thick fluid would not "squeeze" out quickly enough to let this happen.What's too thick? According to Ford, anything above an ATF, is.Plenty of guys on the Ford sites use thicker fluids such as Pennz Synchromesh or a thin MTL.
Some say they use 20 or 30 grade engine oil.I've heard how one rebuilder requires 30 grade,but internal mods have been made to allow this.

It seems there is a range of oil thicker than ATF which you'd be ok but I'm not going to experiment with mine.

Maybe what ford wants is thinner fluid for CAFE? Who knows...but i do know running too thick of a fluid in these trans may cause some problems.In some cases,completely ruins them.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
The M5OD uses atf, period. Mercon V or you can use older dex/merc if you want to save some dough.

Redline stays with this spec using D4 ATF.


I have an M5OD tranny in my E-150 and plan on using Maxlife ATF this spring/summer when I change it.


Just say no to ATFs in an MTX!


Initially I questioned it too...... It's been working great with ATF for close to three decades now. Maxlife should be just fine.
 
Do you put in 2nd or 3rd and immediately slide it in 1st? I have been driving manuals over 50 years and other than "Three on the tree" that's the way I always did it.

It saves on the synchronizer doing it that way. You might also try lubeguard.
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Initially I questioned it too...... It's been working great with ATF for close to three decades now. Maxlife should be just fine.


oy....this is the kind of mentality that makes me cringe. Fine is fine but if better is available for no added cost, why not?
 
I currently have RP Synchromax in mine having replaced the D4 that was in there for "10s of thousands of miles"

It has been previously suggested on this forum that Synchomax won't hold up viscosity wise; I might send mine out when it is up for a change in a few years.

I've never gotten 1st gear easy engagement 'ever' like I have on my toyota with any of the lubes I've tried.

It is sometimes a push, back off, and push again type of action

This goes back to the day i test drove it noting to the sales guy that it was pretty 'unrefined'.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Initially I questioned it too...... It's been working great with ATF for close to three decades now. Maxlife should be just fine.


oy....this is the kind of mentality that makes me cringe. Fine is fine but if better is available for no added cost, why not?


Cringe, what's better? Facts please. Did you own one for 27+ years without any issues? I have. In the event of any confusion the Maxlife I'm referring to is the ATF.
 
If this has worked for demarpaint for 27 YEARS it seems to be getting the job done. Lots of people do not drive any sort of car, truck, van or SUV anywhere close to that length of time.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
If this has worked for demarpaint for 27 YEARS it seems to be getting the job done. Lots of people do not drive any sort of car, truck, van or SUV anywhere close to that length of time.


Its real simple actually. It calls for ATF [Mercon] and Maxlife fits the bill. Why would I have problems? It had ATF in it since it rolled off the assembly line.

Maxlife Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Cringe, what's better? Facts please. Did you own one for 27+ years without any issues? I have. In the event of any confusion the Maxlife I'm referring to is the ATF.


Just read Molakule's papers on it. Redline has some, too. ATF is not a quality product for an MTX. It is simply something that worked when there were no other readily available options. You can keep doing what you are doing for sure. But if you wanted to get even more from your investment, there are options for you.

FYI, manufacturers don't spec ATF for MTX anymore. Those days are long gone for a reason.
 
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Originally Posted By: Mystic
If this has worked for demarpaint for 27 YEARS it seems to be getting the job done. Lots of people do not drive any sort of car, truck, van or SUV anywhere close to that length of time.


Many people think everything is fine when there are no signs otherwise. That doesn't make it true. For many things the signs don't appear until damage has been done.

How many people have perfectly running cars that you send a borescope down and find tons of gunky buildup in intakes, on valves and carbon covered piston tops? They never had signs of anything other than perfection but upon inspection, things were far from perfect.
 
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Well, demarpaint has driven this vehicle for 27 years. So it is taking a long time for the damage to appear.

If I had driven a vehicle for 27 years I would be pretty happy. It seems it is hard to get better service from a vehicle than that.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Mystic
If this has worked for demarpaint for 27 YEARS it seems to be getting the job done. Lots of people do not drive any sort of car, truck, van or SUV anywhere close to that length of time.


Many people think everything is fine when there are no signs otherwise. That doesn't make it true. For many things the signs don't appear until damage has been done.

How many people have perfectly running cars that you send a borescope down and find tons of gunky buildup in intakes, on valves and carbon covered piston tops? They never had signs of anything other than perfection but upon inspection, things were far from perfect.




I've drained the fluid with little to no metal on the magnetic drain plug, and had the top cover off to change a gasket. The internals were clean and free of any visible imperfections. What else is there to check? The transmission functions perfectly.

What damage? I've used the approved fluid for years. What am I supposed to be using?
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint


What damage? I've used the approved fluid for years. What am I supposed to be using?


Like I said, read Molakule's paper on it and or Redlines. ATFs don't have the proper additives for ideal synchro performance and protection. They were merely spec'd because they were the only thin fluids to pick from. Again, manufacturers stopped spec'ing ATF in an MTX for a reason.
 
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In case you missed the edit.

I've drained the fluid with little to no metal on the magnetic drain plug, and had the top cover off to change a gasket. The internals were clean and free of any visible imperfections. What else is there to check? The transmission functions perfectly.

What should I be using?
 
Heck, demarpaint, I guess you were supposed to be using liquid gold or something. We probably need to consult with Skyship. Is he still around? The last I heard he was still riding the bus that they were using to test transmission fluids.

If the recommended fluid was working and you have been able to drive that vehicle for so long, why would it have been necessary to use something more expensive? The recommended fluid worked. I sure as heck would not now add some expensive transmission fluid to a 27 year old vehicle. If that vehicle stopped running tomorrow morning you have gotten your money's worth of service from it.
 
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Originally Posted By: Mystic
Heck, demarpaint, I guess you were supposed to be using liquid gold or something. We probably need to consult with Skyship. Is he still around? The last I heard he was still riding the bus that they were using to test transmission fluids.

If the recommended fluid was working and you have been able to drive that vehicle for so long, why would it have been necessary to use something more expensive? The recommended fluid worked. I sure as heck would not now add some expensive transmission fluid to a 27 year old vehicle. If that vehicle stopped running tomorrow morning you have gotten your money's worth of service from it.


I'll have to look for the papers and see since badtlc won't tell me.
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LOL Maybe a 30 grade oil, or a 5W30? No way is gear oil going to work in it, especially in the winter. I know a few people with old F-150's with the same tranny using ATF logging over 200,000 and 300,000 miles. The M5OD wasn't any great transmission from what I've heard, but mine has been fine.
 
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