Meg's Paint Protect (new product)
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I've started using this stuff myself. Just received it Saturday.
I did IPA wipedown, clay (meg's white) and two coats of megs 7 (show car glaze) and finally two of the paint protect.
Well, the car looks great BUT #1 it is silver and #2 the glaze is doing most of the heavy lifting for looks. Shine is good. Not much depth can be created on silver so I cannot comment on that.
At least on my car, using this method, the looks are the same as I would get from another good product. It IS slick feeling, although I am not sure it is slicker than meg's Ultimate Wax which is one of the slicker products I have tried.
I WILL say the application is great. Viscosity is like thin vegetable oil. Comes off easily as it does not dry.
Not a helpful post just yet I realize. I will post back if something interesting happens.
I did IPA wipedown, clay (meg's white) and two coats of megs 7 (show car glaze) and finally two of the paint protect.
Well, the car looks great BUT #1 it is silver and #2 the glaze is doing most of the heavy lifting for looks. Shine is good. Not much depth can be created on silver so I cannot comment on that.
At least on my car, using this method, the looks are the same as I would get from another good product. It IS slick feeling, although I am not sure it is slicker than meg's Ultimate Wax which is one of the slicker products I have tried.
I WILL say the application is great. Viscosity is like thin vegetable oil. Comes off easily as it does not dry.
Not a helpful post just yet I realize. I will post back if something interesting happens.
Nick1994
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I emailed Meguiars asking about it and they said to use this in place of wax, no need to wax before or after using Meguiars Paint Protect.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I emailed Meguiars asking about it and they said to use this in place of wax, no need to wax before or after using Meguiars Paint Protect.
I'm not sure if this post is in reference to my post above. To clarify, Nick is correct. There is discussion about layering this product on the Meg's forum, but they seem to discourage it. In my case I was using a standard glaze (not a wax or sealant) beforehand which is how they recommend.
I emailed Meguiars asking about it and they said to use this in place of wax, no need to wax before or after using Meguiars Paint Protect.
I'm not sure if this post is in reference to my post above. To clarify, Nick is correct. There is discussion about layering this product on the Meg's forum, but they seem to discourage it. In my case I was using a standard glaze (not a wax or sealant) beforehand which is how they recommend.
Any one used this stuff. I've been playing with it over the past few days. Initially it makes the paint look wet and looks really nice. But I hosed the pollen off the next day and it water spotted like crazy. I put another coat on. We'll see what happens in the morning.
Looking at few videos, the sheeting action happens when the surface tension is less than necessary to occur beading action. That tells me that by design, sheeting product will NOT last as long as beading product.
Videos don't impress me.
Videos don't impress me.
I have a bottle sitting here waiting for me to muster the enthusiasm to apply it. I have a feeling it is not going to be that good. I hope I'm wrong.
Sounds like it is being marketed similar to Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (EGP)sealant which I've been using as one of my LSP for a few years now.
I generally stick with Meg's and Autoglym for my weekend warrior detailing needs.
I generally stick with Meg's and Autoglym for my weekend warrior detailing needs.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Michael Stoops states it can be used over a wax.
I never understood this kind of reasoning. To me, a wax should always be the top coat.
Why?
Because sealants last longer than waxes. So, why put a sealant over a wax, because when the wax breaks down, it's taking the sealant with it. With the sealant down first, the wax slowly wears away, leaving the sealant as a secondary/safety coat before the clearcoat is exposed.
Am I wrong?
I've never understood why people put two different products on top of their paint...it's a lot of unnecessary work....there are plenty of waxes available that will last for at least 6 months, and some will go a year all by themselves, no need to apply multiple products...
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Michael Stoops states it can be used over a wax.
I never understood this kind of reasoning. To me, a wax should always be the top coat.
Why?
Because sealants last longer than waxes. So, why put a sealant over a wax, because when the wax breaks down, it's taking the sealant with it. With the sealant down first, the wax slowly wears away, leaving the sealant as a secondary/safety coat before the clearcoat is exposed.
Am I wrong?
I've never understood why people put two different products on top of their paint...it's a lot of unnecessary work....there are plenty of waxes available that will last for at least 6 months, and some will go a year all by themselves, no need to apply multiple products...
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
I will certainly give it a try when it is sold locally. Meguiars isn't known to last as long as much of the competition.
I haven't had any of their waxes last more than a couple of months...they aren't very durable....Meguiars polishes are nice, but their finishing waxes just don't last...
I will certainly give it a try when it is sold locally. Meguiars isn't known to last as long as much of the competition.
I haven't had any of their waxes last more than a couple of months...they aren't very durable....Meguiars polishes are nice, but their finishing waxes just don't last...
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Looking at few videos, the sheeting action happens when the surface tension is less than necessary to occur beading action. That tells me that by design, sheeting product will NOT last as long as beading product.
Videos don't impress me.
Interesting point, but what's to say that beading is the end all, be all metric? Unfortunately there is no good way to ID if surface protection still exists. What if there is something tenacious that binds to the surface and remains as a coating, but doesn't bead well? The possibility of a long lasting coating with different surface free energy does exist. Question becomes how would anyone know it's still there.
That's why I like zaino quick seal. Once I've applied zaino, re-upping the surface with that product isn't even a 5-min job on a clean and dry car, and you know it's there (for a time at least).
Looking at few videos, the sheeting action happens when the surface tension is less than necessary to occur beading action. That tells me that by design, sheeting product will NOT last as long as beading product.
Videos don't impress me.
Interesting point, but what's to say that beading is the end all, be all metric? Unfortunately there is no good way to ID if surface protection still exists. What if there is something tenacious that binds to the surface and remains as a coating, but doesn't bead well? The possibility of a long lasting coating with different surface free energy does exist. Question becomes how would anyone know it's still there.
That's why I like zaino quick seal. Once I've applied zaino, re-upping the surface with that product isn't even a 5-min job on a clean and dry car, and you know it's there (for a time at least).
JHZR2
Staff member
So I finally applied some of this. Did it to the hood of the odyssey just to try it out.
I'll say that while zaino claims to require hardly any, this is by far the easiest stuff to apply sparingly and truly know where it goes of anything I've used. I mean that I could put a little on a pad, it would spread well on the pad, and spread on the panel super easy. Wait the 3-5 and buff. At 65% rh and 70F outside it buffed off well.
I'll be interested to see how it behaves. It seems like reviews out there are somewhat conflicting. But I really do love how easy it goes on. If it has uv protection and can last in the sun and rain, it probably makes sense to use between the roof rails on the van where it's a challenge even for me to access.
I'll say that while zaino claims to require hardly any, this is by far the easiest stuff to apply sparingly and truly know where it goes of anything I've used. I mean that I could put a little on a pad, it would spread well on the pad, and spread on the panel super easy. Wait the 3-5 and buff. At 65% rh and 70F outside it buffed off well.
I'll be interested to see how it behaves. It seems like reviews out there are somewhat conflicting. But I really do love how easy it goes on. If it has uv protection and can last in the sun and rain, it probably makes sense to use between the roof rails on the van where it's a challenge even for me to access.
I used PP on both of our vehicles for my spring "wash & wax":
Wash, clay bar, polish and seal.
The PP went on and off very easily with a very oily feel to it the first day. After two days the oily feel was gone but the surface was still smooth and slick. Stayed spot free after rain storms.
I won't be pushing the 365 day claim as I'll soon be doing my fall "wash & wax" ritual.
Wash, clay bar, polish and seal.
The PP went on and off very easily with a very oily feel to it the first day. After two days the oily feel was gone but the surface was still smooth and slick. Stayed spot free after rain storms.
I won't be pushing the 365 day claim as I'll soon be doing my fall "wash & wax" ritual.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
any local store carrying it?
Bought mine at Pep Boys, on sale for $7.99. Just like Collinite 845 a bottle will go a long way.
any local store carrying it?
Bought mine at Pep Boys, on sale for $7.99. Just like Collinite 845 a bottle will go a long way.
I thought this was a wipe on wipe off product?...(per Meg's website)
Didn't know there was a need for actual buffing.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wait the 3-5 and buff. At 65% rh and 70F outside it buffed off well.
Didn't know there was a need for actual buffing.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wait the 3-5 and buff. At 65% rh and 70F outside it buffed off well.
JHZR2
Staff member
Perhaps a poor choice of words. I wiped on, and wiped off sufficiently to make it optically correct. Consider the synonym to your pleasure.
I applied to headlights a couple times this year. Pretty close to wipe on wipe off. Might require a few more swipes of the MF than a simple wipe, but didnt take any buffing.
JHZR2
Staff member
Cripes, look at the post just above yours. I rubbed it/wiped it/buffed it/whatever. Fairly interchangeable terms for removing excess product.
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