thank you.
MMO or Seafoam or Rislone for free sticky ring ?
- Thread starter MetalSlug
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If its really a sticking or stuck ring put a bottle of Berrymans chemtool in the oil for 20 min at idle only then change the oil and filter.
Kreen for 1K works well also, 16oz in the oil and 16oz in the tank.
Out of the 3 you mention i think Rislone might have the best shot but i don't think its would be as effective as Chemtool or Kreen. MMO and Seafoam are not really for this issue.
Kreen for 1K works well also, 16oz in the oil and 16oz in the tank.
Out of the 3 you mention i think Rislone might have the best shot but i don't think its would be as effective as Chemtool or Kreen. MMO and Seafoam are not really for this issue.
If your talking about a vehicle, I'd get some GM top engine cleaner. Than follow it by changing your oil and substituting a quart with 5 minute motor flush. Than change your oil & filter.
any of them should work. Berrymans is a great option also.
we talk about carb engine here, my dad string ray corvette been sitting for 5 years, it blow some white smoke when I get on it hard, I think its either sticky ring or valve seal since he let it sit for so long.
if I use Rislone how long do I need to change the oil ?
BG109 is designed for stuck rings.
http://bg-products.blogspot.com/2012/04/bg-109-compression-restorer.html
http://bg-products.blogspot.com/2012/04/bg-109-compression-restorer.html
I don't see any problem going a full OCI with it unless the engine is sludged.
Have you done a compression test on this engine? Cooling system issues? HG or cracked head? Did it freeze? Carb problem in the secondaries?
It not unheard of for engines that were not properly prepped for long term storage to break rings when first fired up. Not saying thats the case but it does happen.
You have a better idea than i do on the condition of the engine, just a few thoughts.
Have you done a compression test on this engine? Cooling system issues? HG or cracked head? Did it freeze? Carb problem in the secondaries?
It not unheard of for engines that were not properly prepped for long term storage to break rings when first fired up. Not saying thats the case but it does happen.
You have a better idea than i do on the condition of the engine, just a few thoughts.
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Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
thank you.
How do you know? Bad compression? Burning oil?
thank you.
How do you know? Bad compression? Burning oil?
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
https://gumout.com/multi-system-tune-up/
They are also a site sponsor.
the can look like seafoam.
https://gumout.com/multi-system-tune-up/
They are also a site sponsor.
the can look like seafoam.
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't see any problem going a full OCI with it unless the engine is sludged.
Have you done a compression test on this engine? Cooling system issues? HG or cracked head? Did it freeze? Carb problem in the secondaries?
It not unheard of for engines that were not properly prepped for long term storage to break rings when first fired up. Not saying thats the case but it does happen.
You have a better idea than i do on the condition of the engine, just a few thoughts.
I would find the bad cylinder(s) via compression checks and then remove spark plug and pour about 5 ounces of LC20 or Rislone Engine Treatment into the cylinder(s) and rotate engine by hand.
I.E., do a piston soak which works the lubricant/cleaner into the rings.
I like Berryman's cleaners as fuel system cleaners but I don't put them in any oil.
I don't see any problem going a full OCI with it unless the engine is sludged.
Have you done a compression test on this engine? Cooling system issues? HG or cracked head? Did it freeze? Carb problem in the secondaries?
It not unheard of for engines that were not properly prepped for long term storage to break rings when first fired up. Not saying thats the case but it does happen.
You have a better idea than i do on the condition of the engine, just a few thoughts.
I would find the bad cylinder(s) via compression checks and then remove spark plug and pour about 5 ounces of LC20 or Rislone Engine Treatment into the cylinder(s) and rotate engine by hand.
I.E., do a piston soak which works the lubricant/cleaner into the rings.
I like Berryman's cleaners as fuel system cleaners but I don't put them in any oil.
You could run Redline ester synthetic oil with Lubegard Biotech. This stuff is suppose to clean rings...
"Helps reduce smoking by restoring flexibility to valve stem seals for improved sealing, also providing outstanding upper cylinder lubricity as it frees up sticking rings"
http://www.lubegard.com/SearchByCategory...Oil+Protectant#
"Helps reduce smoking by restoring flexibility to valve stem seals for improved sealing, also providing outstanding upper cylinder lubricity as it frees up sticking rings"
http://www.lubegard.com/SearchByCategory...Oil+Protectant#
I bought a bottle of Rislone engine treatment today at walmart ( kinda small )
went to oreilly and saw the same one but its in 1 quart and kinda same price too, is the one at walmart I bought happen to be very small compare to the one in oreilly.
How long it take for Rislone engine treatment to working ? can I leave this on for 5 month oil change ( mabe 100 miles max )
went to oreilly and saw the same one but its in 1 quart and kinda same price too, is the one at walmart I bought happen to be very small compare to the one in oreilly.
How long it take for Rislone engine treatment to working ? can I leave this on for 5 month oil change ( mabe 100 miles max )
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I bought a bottle of Rislone engine treatment today at walmart ( kinda small )
went to oreilly and saw the same one but its in 1 quart and kinda same price too, is the one at walmart I bought happen to be very small compare to the one in oreilly.
How long it take for Rislone engine treatment to working ? can I leave this on for 5 month oil change ( mabe 100 miles max )
The small bottle might be a concentrate version. Check both labels closely.
I bought a bottle of Rislone engine treatment today at walmart ( kinda small )
went to oreilly and saw the same one but its in 1 quart and kinda same price too, is the one at walmart I bought happen to be very small compare to the one in oreilly.
How long it take for Rislone engine treatment to working ? can I leave this on for 5 month oil change ( mabe 100 miles max )
The small bottle might be a concentrate version. Check both labels closely.
yes its concentrate version , what different between both ? which one is better ?
Read the label and follow - both will work similarly, just different concentrations.
I like MolaKule's comment the best. I have soaked my pistons on one vehicle with 2ozs of Seafoam overnight in each cylinder to try to de-coke clogged oil control rings (known problem on last generation Isuzu Trooper, also Saturns and some newer Toyota I4s). Worked great. Oil usage dropped dramatically and after 2nd treatment is very little.
Getting at the rings directly with solvent is a much more effective way to go IMO.
Afterwards, using a really cleaning synthetic should help it stay clean. I'm using PPP in that now and am hoping it keeps it from re-occurring - pretty confident it will, others have said that has held it at bay for them.
I like MolaKule's comment the best. I have soaked my pistons on one vehicle with 2ozs of Seafoam overnight in each cylinder to try to de-coke clogged oil control rings (known problem on last generation Isuzu Trooper, also Saturns and some newer Toyota I4s). Worked great. Oil usage dropped dramatically and after 2nd treatment is very little.
Getting at the rings directly with solvent is a much more effective way to go IMO.
Afterwards, using a really cleaning synthetic should help it stay clean. I'm using PPP in that now and am hoping it keeps it from re-occurring - pretty confident it will, others have said that has held it at bay for them.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't see any problem going a full OCI with it unless the engine is sludged.
Have you done a compression test on this engine? Cooling system issues? HG or cracked head? Did it freeze? Carb problem in the secondaries?
It not unheard of for engines that were not properly prepped for long term storage to break rings when first fired up. Not saying thats the case but it does happen.
You have a better idea than i do on the condition of the engine, just a few thoughts.
I would find the bad cylinder(s) via compression checks and then remove spark plug and pour about 5 ounces of LC20 or Rislone Engine Treatment into the cylinder(s) and rotate engine by hand.
I.E., do a piston soak which works the lubricant/cleaner into the rings.
I like Berryman's cleaners as fuel system cleaners but I don't put them in any oil.
Chemtool was forever recommended for use in the oil. They stopped this recommendation due only to misuse by DIY. It had on the can for gas and oil, Walmart shopper buys a can, goes out in the parking lot, pours it in the oil and drives off.
Done at idle only followed by an immediate oil change there is no problem. I have been using this (and in Germany a similar product) since i was a kid (many decades) and never lost an engine or bearing. Driving the car with it in the oil invites disaster.
The problem with piston soaks on V engines is well known. You cannot get full coverage of the piston top or around the rings. L engines are no problem.
The chances of freeing a sticking ring on a V engine through the plug hole is minimal at best.
GM found this out on the N* with its carbon buildup issue. They came out with a can adapter for the Top Engine Cleaner to draw it in through a vacuum line like Seafoam treatment (which are IMHO absolutely worthless). This proved to be more effective than down the plug hole.
The original GM TOC was a potent mix with some acids and very effective.
Chemtool, Kreen, Pro-Tec attack the varnish on the rings from below with the engine running. It is in my experience much more effective in V engines.
I personally performed a test at the Police garage for Pro-Tec when it was first introduced in Germany from England somewhere around 1996.
Warm engine, compression test, throttle wide open 5 sec crank each cyl, numbers recorded.
Protec in the oil 400ml run 20 min at idle, repeat test resulted in 30% average improvement in 2 cyl even more.
This product has a very similar make up to Chemtool with added green dye color.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't see any problem going a full OCI with it unless the engine is sludged.
Have you done a compression test on this engine? Cooling system issues? HG or cracked head? Did it freeze? Carb problem in the secondaries?
It not unheard of for engines that were not properly prepped for long term storage to break rings when first fired up. Not saying thats the case but it does happen.
You have a better idea than i do on the condition of the engine, just a few thoughts.
I would find the bad cylinder(s) via compression checks and then remove spark plug and pour about 5 ounces of LC20 or Rislone Engine Treatment into the cylinder(s) and rotate engine by hand.
I.E., do a piston soak which works the lubricant/cleaner into the rings.
I like Berryman's cleaners as fuel system cleaners but I don't put them in any oil.
Chemtool was forever recommended for use in the oil. They stopped this recommendation due only to misuse by DIY. It had on the can for gas and oil, Walmart shopper buys a can, goes out in the parking lot, pours it in the oil and drives off.
Done at idle only followed by an immediate oil change there is no problem. I have been using this (and in Germany a similar product) since i was a kid (many decades) and never lost an engine or bearing. Driving the car with it in the oil invites disaster.
The problem with piston soaks on V engines is well known. You cannot get full coverage of the piston top or around the rings. L engines are no problem.
The chances of freeing a sticking ring on a V engine through the plug hole is minimal at best.
GM found this out on the N* with its carbon buildup issue. They came out with a can adapter for the Top Engine Cleaner to draw it in through a vacuum line like Seafoam treatment (which are IMHO absolutely worthless). This proved to be more effective than down the plug hole.
The original GM TOC was a potent mix with some acids and very effective.
Chemtool, Kreen, Pro-Tec attack the varnish on the rings from below with the engine running. It is in my experience much more effective in V engines.
I personally performed a test at the Police garage for Pro-Tec when it was first introduced in Germany from England somewhere around 1996.
Warm engine, compression test, throttle wide open 5 sec crank each cyl, numbers recorded.
Protec in the oil 400ml run 20 min at idle, repeat test resulted in 30% average improvement in 2 cyl even more.
This product has a very similar make up to Chemtool with added green dye color.
nvm
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Chemtool was forever recommended for use in the oil. They stopped this recommendation due only to misuse by DIY. It had on the can for gas and oil, Walmart shopper buys a can, goes out in the parking lot, pours it in the oil and drives off.
Done at idle only followed by an immediate oil change there is no problem. I have been using this (and in Germany a similar product) since i was a kid (many decades) and never lost an engine or bearing. Driving the car with it in the oil invites disaster.
Doesn't Seafoam say you can just pour it in the engine oil and drive around all you want? That being said, I'd be uneasy about leaving a full pint of Seafoam in more than 50 miles, so I'm with you on that issue. Maybe Chemtool is so diff than Seafoam that you shouldn't drive around with it!!!
Chemtool was forever recommended for use in the oil. They stopped this recommendation due only to misuse by DIY. It had on the can for gas and oil, Walmart shopper buys a can, goes out in the parking lot, pours it in the oil and drives off.
Done at idle only followed by an immediate oil change there is no problem. I have been using this (and in Germany a similar product) since i was a kid (many decades) and never lost an engine or bearing. Driving the car with it in the oil invites disaster.
Doesn't Seafoam say you can just pour it in the engine oil and drive around all you want? That being said, I'd be uneasy about leaving a full pint of Seafoam in more than 50 miles, so I'm with you on that issue. Maybe Chemtool is so diff than Seafoam that you shouldn't drive around with it!!!
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