Which has lower voltage loss-solder or crimped?

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When you HAVE to create a connection between two wires, I'm wondering which option is better - to solder or just use crimp connectors. My *guess* is that a soldered connection is a superior connection, for a variety of reasons, IF it has been done correctly. I'm also guessing that a lot of people have the infamous "parasitic draw" problems due to poor connections in their vehicles?

I'm interested in "cleaning" up a few of the crimped connections that have been created in my truck from the aftermarket alarm system that was installed. In the future, I'll likely also want to add some electrical customizations myself (i.e., gauges, etc.), and I'm a stickler for things being done the best that they can be.

I know that crimping is a LOT easier than soldering, but again...I want to do what's most efficient.

I've been researching this topic and I wonder if the best way to go might be using the "Sealed Solder Heat Shrink Connectors" - http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/elektralink/elektralink_sealed_solder_splice_kits.php or http://www.cableorganizer.com/optiseal-heat-shrink-butt-splices/#features

Comments?

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Thank you,
Ed
 
crimping is only as good as the preparation before hand.

In other words: crimping contact surface must be clean, free from debris, oxidation, etc.

Then it must not be subjected to all kinds of elements, such as moisture, acidic fumes, etc. that would lead to deterioration or corrosion.

Last question is: what sort of current are you feeding through it? If high current, crimping is preferred (IMO) over soldering.

Me? I crimp it first and then solder to fill the voids and also to ensure no air (oxidation) can appear between 2 contact surfaces.

Q.

p.s. crimping/soldering doesn't help in dealing with so-called parasitic draw in a car. Main issue with them has to do with all the electronics that on standby mode, will draw current regardless (e.g. ECU modules, radio on-standby, clock, etc.)

All other parasitic draw is negligible.
 
Cool. That's what I thought.

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What do you all think of the "Sealed Solder Heat Shrink Connectors"?

Quest: "If high current, crimping is preferred (IMO) over soldering." Don't you think the custom, soldered battery cables are better than the crimped style?...and they're high voltage, right?

Ed
 
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
Cool. That's what I thought.

smile.gif


What do you all think of the "Sealed Solder Heat Shrink Connectors"?

Quest: "If high current, crimping is preferred (IMO) over soldering." Don't you think the custom, soldered battery cables are better than the crimped style?...and they're high voltage, right?

Ed


Battery terminals are 12 VDC.....Not considered high voltage. But loss across a good soldered joint is insignificant. And it does not change. Crimped joints can loosen, with time and vibration.
 
A properly done solder connection will always be superior to a properly done crimp job.

By far, the most common reason to select crimp over solder is cost. mass production makes crimp the preferred method. And extreme heat environment may be another reason to select crimp over solder. Like in an oven, for example.

In a test development lab I used to work in, if we were using crimp style pins and sockets, we would always crimp, and then solder each termination.

I'm not too crazy about the recommended method, shown in the link you provide, for butt connections. To ravel the strands and intertwine them, goes against all quality soldering basics. Correct quality solder technique would be, after stripping the ends, carefully make sure all the strands are laying in place, using the same direction of twist that they were manufactured. Then, lay the two ends side by side and solder.
 
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Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
The best way is "correctly soldered".

A good mechanical joint first then soldered

The best of both crimping & soldering.
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Just add solder to this joint .........

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This is even better, than laying the ends side by side.
 
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I was once (late 1980s) involved in an inspection of a facility that was manufacturing/assembling Tomahawk Cruise missiles. They were using regular crimped on spade connectors.

I have always used crimped on connectors, and don't remember ever having an issue or having to redo one (that I made) later on. I have seen plenty of poorly crimped connectors failing though. I crimp up to and including battery cable wires without issue. Soldering can create a rigid joint subject to cracking or "wire break off" in high vibration applications if not properly done. Either method makes a good connection IF DONE PROPERLY.
 
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I've always soldered & used heat shrink tubing on trailer wiring connections, especially when exposed to the elements. The newer grease filled crimp terminals seem to work well too.
 
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
My *guess* is that a soldered connection is a superior connection.. I'm also guessing that a lot of people have the infamous "parasitic draw" problems due to poor connections in their vehicles?

Both guesses are incorrect. Crimping, in theory makes a lower-resistance connection. In any professionally engineered product you will see crimps only. Even wire connections to a PCB will use a connector to avoid fatigue fractures due to the effect soldering (and solder) has on the wire.

Parasitic draw is not a result of bad connections, it's a result of a short or leaving something connected that shouldn't be.


Now, DIY practicality is a different thing. Professional crimping tools are expensive and have to be exactly suited to the connector and wire size. I would rather solder and heat-shrink an in-line connection in my car over making a poor job at crimping.
 
Originally Posted By: Kiwi_ME
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
My *guess* is that a soldered connection is a superior connection.. I'm also guessing that a lot of people have the infamous "parasitic draw" problems due to poor connections in their vehicles?

Both guesses are incorrect. Crimping, in theory makes a lower-resistance connection. In any professionally engineered product you will see crimps only. Even wire connections to a PCB will use a connector to avoid fatigue fractures due to the effect soldering (and solder) has on the wire.

Parasitic draw is not a result of bad connections, it's a result of a short or leaving something connected that shouldn't be.


Now, DIY practicality is a different thing. Professional crimping tools are expensive and have to be exactly suited to the connector and wire size. I would rather solder and heat-shrink an in-line connection in my car over making a poor job at crimping.
Art Collins whoud have been aghast at crimp connectors in his communications gear.
 
Back to the question of voltage loss. Same either way. If current is going through the solder you did something wrong. If solder is holding the joint together something is wrong.

If using high quality pieces and tools, crimped is better especially when protecting the completed joint with something like heat shrink.

Look for high quality bits not discount auto parts store bits.
Use only a high quality crimping tools not the cheap discount auto parts tools. Remember, clean and careful is good.
 
"A properly done solder connection will always be superior to a properly done crimp job."

Not always- A racer friend of mine tells me crimping over soldering is preferred for the extreme conditions/vibrations encountered by 1/4 mile dragsters. It seems solder joints fracture. Of course these cars don't need to deal with weather,oxidation, etc...
 
The lowest voltage drop would probably be a solder joint. The most vibration resistant connection would probably be a crimp connection. Very dependent on quality and method of both. For your app, the difference is probably negligible if they are done correctly. Most of the aerospace products we build use crimps with properly sized terminals and wires (electrically and dimensionally) with the proper tools.
 
Aerospace-grade terminals and crimp tools are great (and Paladin brought the price of a good crimper down to the DIY range). Can't say the same about something you buy in the auto parts store or Radio Shack.

Which is easier to do wrong?
Which is easier to do over?
Those two questions probably have more to do with the choice in industry than which is absolutely better, except in aerospace where vibration, temp extremes, vacuum environment (things outgas and coat important payloads in a vacuum), and weight matter a lot.

There's an awful lot of failure analysis covering soldered connections. What I've seen is all at the printed wire board level.
 
Having dealt with old, corroded wiring, I prefer to solder. Most crimp-on connectors I've had the "pleasure" of using seem too thin or somehow lose their "bite" over time; so I choose to twist/solder/shrinkwrap (or tape) or crimp/solder. I have flowed solder into factory heavy ground crimp-connectors and fixed starting problems in friend's vehicles as well.

Signal wires, especially sensitive ones like audio, I have seen benefit from soldering, compared to installer jobs where static shows up a few years later.

I have never had a solder joint fail from fatigue or vibration in a car, and I started soldering in vehicle wiring as a kid in the '80s.
 
no real difference other than longevity if done right.

If you don't essentially do the mechanical crimp (tie) before soldering, then it can depend on the quality of your solder. they can vary in conductivity and hardness.
 
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