Just a Amsoil question

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: jk_636
I disagree. The way you get your moneys worth is not through extended OCIs necessarily, but by changing your oil regularly and using top quality components to protect and maintain the health of the motor.

How long do you plan to keep your car(s) ? 200k miles ? Or 300k miles ? Or longer ?

My 21 years old Lexus LS400 with 37xk miles has original engine with original valve cover gasket, no work inside the engine was ever needed.

The OCI of that car is 8-9k/6mo with dino(various brands) and 15-18k/12mo with synthetic(again various brands), various brands low to mid-price oil filter was changed once a year(reused with dino oil).

I slept well knowing I didn't spend more than I need to keep the engine running well.

 

[zpinch]

Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Originally Posted By: zpinch
Mobil 1 EP according to some white papers, is quite inferior to Amsoil and Pennzoil. Whether or not it translates to the typical real world user, i dont know. Imo, it does, but that is just me. The few vehicles that i have ran Amsoil signature series oil in, run beautifully, quiet, smooth. Amsoil IS The most robust fully synthetic oil, that is a fact. Do what you want. PENNZOIL platinum or ultra would be my second choice.


What white papers are you referring?


Amsoil 5w30 engine oil white paper. Done by an independent lab, which you couldn't pay them enough to fudge the results. I know some will say it means nothing, but obviously it DOES mean something, you can't tell me the tests don't translate at all to real world performance. I am not saying it's as a big of a performance difference as in the paper, but the oils ARE different, and they will perform different, protect your engine differently.

 

[zpinch]

BTW, even if I didn't have a bypass filter, I would still use Amsoil because in Canada we pay more for engine oil and Amsoil is actually cheaper than other oils such as PP or Mobil 1 EP.

I pay $36 for a gallon of Amsoil SS 5w20.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: zpinch
you can't tell me the tests don't translate at all to real world performance.

Funny you should say that. The #1 test in that study you're referring to is a Four-Ball Wear Test which we've argued here time and time again that it is not very representative of what's going on inside your engine. They even made that disclaimer right in the paper...

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf


To be fair, all manufacturers do this to some extent... they'll cherry pick a subset of tests which make them look great and tout it in their marketing literature. Not saying Amsoil is bad. I actually think they have a great product, but don't get too hung up on some of this stuff...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3013023

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: zpinch
Amsoil IS The most robust fully synthetic oil, that is a fact.

Which Amsoil? You do realize Amsoil makes a number of oils at different price points, and also differing performance/quality.

 

[zpinch]

Their SS, which I pointed out several times.

The four-ball wear test has performance comparatives to say, for example, the upper piston bearing. Under full power the piston will push the oil out of the bearing journal and then what you have left is BL, which is EP protection.

i don't want to argue about this. If different oils all had the same protection, then why are you people here? Seriously.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: zpinch
If different oils all had the same protection, then why are you people here? Seriously.

We're all OCD and love to split hairs.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Dually
If you have a brand new car and you want to use a "quality"synthetic would it pay to start using Amsoil or any other high quality synthetic.

but let me try anyway...


The way to get your money's worth out of "quality" synthetic oil is to run extended OCI. But if you have a brand new car, you're limited by the maximum OCI that the car manufacturer allows, which is as little as 5K miles in some cases.

Secondly, whatever oil you choose must officially meet the specifications listed in your car's owner manual, synthetic or not. Otherwise, you're potentially putting your brand new vehicle's warranty in jeopardy.


I disagree. The way you get your moneys worth is not through extended OCIs necessarily, but by changing your oil regularly and using top quality components to protect and maintain the health of the motor. Peace of mind and a whole lot cheaper than replacing an engine! Just my

YMMV


+1 agreed. Extending oil change intervals is foolish in my opinion. The amsoil moonies should be here any minute to flame away.

 

[zpinch]

Explain why it is foolish in your opinion? What distance is an extended OCI in your opinion?

 

[geeman789]

Originally Posted By: Dually
I don't want to start a argument or start a war but I need to ask.If you have a brand new car and you want to use a "quality"synthetic would it pay to start using Amsoil or any other high quality synthetic.You plan on keeping the car 10+ years and do most highway miles.Is Amsoil worth the extra money?I'm sure it's a great oil.Thanks Joe


I look at modern oil like this...

Any brand name conventional oil... very good.

Any mainstream brand synthetic... excellent.

AMSOIL ... and maybe a couple of other boutique brands.... very excellent...

The question is, do you NEED very excellent... ? Only the owner can answer that...

Avoid the PQIA banned oil list... and you'll be fine...!

 

[PaleRider]

this is my 2 cents:

if you become a preferred member for Amsoil and actually use the membership to your advantage where you are actually saving by absorbing the membership fee, then go for the Amsoil.
You don`t necc need to run the Signature series oil, you can use the XL or OE oils with good results.

I just finished a UOA by Blackstone for a 2013 Nissan frontier and at about 5K the 5W30 XL oil still had a 4.7 TBN

what I`m saying is pick an oil that works for how you drive.

I tow with both trucks, both trucks can have short drive`s to and from town, or long drives several times a year out of state, and can have long idle times. the mileage varys. but I consider this to be a severe service schedule. Am I wasting oil by doing early 5K OCI`s, maybe, but in the long run I`m still saving bc the Amsoil is priced below PUP and M1 (both flavors) if you don`t consider shipping costs.
For me it`s a waste of money to drive a long distance to wally world only to for them to not have the oil on the shelf. Most of the time it is well worth having the oil drop shipped.

I was this close to trying PUP at wally world for 25.17 for a 5 qt jug, but needed an additional 2 qts @ 7.xx a qt, that`s crazy!!! that approx 50 bux plus the gas to get it.

preferred membership for amsoil XL is 5.xx a qt. a no brainer...

good luck in your choice...

 

[PaleRider]

correction PP not PUP.^

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: zpinch
The four-ball wear test has performance comparatives to say, for example, the upper piston bearing. Under full power the piston will push the oil out of the bearing journal and then what you have left is BL, which is EP protection.


????

If you are talking wrist-pin, it's partially hydrodynamic and squeeze film...and not represented in any fashion by polished spherical balls.