when to replace tie rod ends?

[Jimmy9190]

This is about the Dodge Dakota in my signature. I am sorry to say a BITOG Google search did not provide much help. My truck is 2 wheel drive with rack and pinion steering. I do not go off road or tow anything. Roads around here are generally in good shape and I do not usually drive over 70 mph.

Both of my outer tie rod ends were replaced some years ago with Moog sealed parts. They now have just over 100,000 miles on them and I wonder should they be replaced as a preventative measure? They have no side to side or up and down play but I can grab each one and twist it very easily. There is just a small amount of wiggle in the steering wheel but no steering wander, pull, vibration or noise.

It seems to me that new tie rods and a fresh alignment might tighten up my steering somewhat. Or should I just leave well enough alone? Thanks for any help on this question.

 

[DBMaster]

My opinion (I did say opinion) is that if you jack each front wheel off the ground and can't feel play when trying to move the wheel along the horizontal plane they're still fine. As they age they will be plenty easy to twist since they are ball joints.

 

[440Magnum]

Twisting is OK. The best check is to have a helper wiggle the steering wheel back and forth gently (engine off is fine) while you're under the car looking at and feeling the tie-rod ends for play. I'd expect Moog parts to last 100k+ miles unless the boots are torn or something.

FWIW, it may be the rack starting to show some play at 174k. The one in Dad's old 92 Dakota was done by 200k. Its a very easy job to change the rack on a 2WD Dakota. Lazy afternoon kind of job.

 

[Hokiefyd]

I replace them only as required. I've had to replace one set of outer tie rod ends in my driving career, on our 2007 Town & Country minivan at about 35k miles, due to the ball joints at the end getting loose. It was easy because I was under it every 6-7k miles anyway doing stabilizer bar bushings...

If your steering feels a little loose, some toe in can help that dramatically. You can do this yourself, but it requires some vigilance in terms of watching tire wear, etc. Start with about 1/8 turn on each inner tie rod end (so they're both the same). On the Dakota, the tie rod ends attach to the front of the knuckle, so you'd want to "tighten" the inner tie rod end in relation to the outer tie rod end (to pull the front of the knuckle just ever so slightly closer to centerline).

 

[DBMaster]

Oops. I did forget about the inner tie rod ends. I had one of those go bad on my Honda and ended up having to take it to the shop as I could not manager to separate it - it's inside the steering rack. I was able to easily feel the play and determine its source.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Oops. I did forget about the inner tie rod ends. I had one of those go bad on my Honda and ended up having to take it to the shop as I could not manager to separate it - it's inside the steering rack. I was able to easily feel the play and determine its source.


+1 The inners could definitely be worn and should be checked. Rack bushings could also be worn or play in the rack itself.

 

[Merkava_4]

If you can find a good alignment guy, he'll tell you when it's time to replace the tie rod ends. I went in there one year and he told my to replace the wheel bearing hubs and the outer tie rod ends. The next year I went in there, he told me to replace the lower control arms. With each diagnosis, he's been spot on. Try to find a frame and wheel shop if you want the best alignment advice.

 

[LotI]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
If you can find a good alignment guy, he'll tell you when it's time to replace the tie rod ends. I went in there one year and he told my to replace the wheel bearing hubs and the outer tie rod ends. The next year I went in there, he told me to replace the lower control arms. With each diagnosis, he's been spot on. Try to find a frame and wheel shop if you want the best alignment advice.

+1. Often body shops are a great source.

 

[Jimmy9190]

Thanks for all your replies. I will leave well enough alone unless I see some other problem come up. I guess my truck is just starting to show its age. Same as its owner. Thanks guys.

 

[Lolvoguy]

I use the "shotgun" approach on older vehicles when determining what and when to replace it. This entails replacing everything as a pair, as well as everything in the vicinity.

IE, when replacing a ball joint on my bmw, I replaced the entire lower control arm on both sides, as well as the rubber bushings they mount to. As a result, the steering and suspension is tighter and more precise. Also, it'll save the time you'll pay for alignments

 

[Cardenio327]

Undo the boot clamps on the inner tie rod boots so you can get a visual on the rack itself and the ball-joint-parts of the inner tie rods.

With the truck sitting firmly on the ground and the engine off have an assistant whip the steering wheel back and forth about 20°-30° or so like a squirrel high on crack.

Meanwhile, crawl under the front of the truck and grab a hold of the ball-joint-part of each inner and outer tie rod to feel for any free play. Even 1/32" is unacceptable. Check the rack bushing [passenger side] and rack gearing [driver's side] visually for free play at the same time.

When you are done, heavy duty zip ties are sufficient for the inner tie rod boots, no need to waste time and money looking for the stainless clamps they come with.