When do you usually get an alignment?
- Thread starter mclasser
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I try to get it done when I install new tires. But if I see that the old tires wore out evenly, I sometimes don't bother.
tire cupping is typically caused by worn shocks/struts.
As the tires roll and bounce around on the "smooth" roads we all pay for, the shocks allow to much bounce and the tires don't get firmly planted to the ground.
The only cure is new shocks/struts.
If you catch the cupping early enough you can sometimes smooth the cupped tires back to regular smoothness, but don't count on it.
At worst you'll just have the road noise that's associated with the cupping.
an alignment comes into play when you see the edges of your tires wearing down. Also when you hold the steering wheel straight and the car starts to veer/pull, that's an indicator too.
But I always get an alignment when I get new tires no matter what. In case something happens, the tires shop can't blame me for something when I got an alignment and puts the blame back on them.
As the tires roll and bounce around on the "smooth" roads we all pay for, the shocks allow to much bounce and the tires don't get firmly planted to the ground.
The only cure is new shocks/struts.
If you catch the cupping early enough you can sometimes smooth the cupped tires back to regular smoothness, but don't count on it.
At worst you'll just have the road noise that's associated with the cupping.
an alignment comes into play when you see the edges of your tires wearing down. Also when you hold the steering wheel straight and the car starts to veer/pull, that's an indicator too.
But I always get an alignment when I get new tires no matter what. In case something happens, the tires shop can't blame me for something when I got an alignment and puts the blame back on them.
Only if I see an issue like irregular tire wear or pulling. Also if any front end components are replaced.
Most techs operating an alignment machine aren't alignment guys, so you run the possibility of creating a problem that doesn't exist. If everything is fine, why bother it?
Most techs operating an alignment machine aren't alignment guys, so you run the possibility of creating a problem that doesn't exist. If everything is fine, why bother it?
My Ranger has never had an alignment in its life. I don't plan on getting one unless the tires start wearing funny, or if I have to replace a suspension or steering component that would require resetting the alignment.
When any kind of suspension work is done. If none, I would check my suspension/have someone check to see if any work needs to be done. If none than you can do it once every so often. If you need suspension work done, do it first, then get the alignment.. I made the mistake of getting an alignment and shortly after doing 1 wheel bearing to have a 2nd alignment, and a 3rd after a 2nd bearing and new shocks..
I did not think shocks or a bearing required an alignment.
When I replace a suspension part.
After I hit a deep pothole.
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Every 6 months? 1 yr? When the tires are cupped to [censored]?
The only times I ever get an alignment are a) if a front-end part has been replaced (tie-rod, bushings, ball-joints, etc) or if I notice abnormal tire wear.
It's probably been 7-8 years since I had to have an alignment, and that was when I replaced a bunch of bushings on the '69. In the whole 250,000 miles we owned the 93 Vision TSi, I think I had one alignment done when I replaced the tie rod ends at well over 100k miles.
Every 6 months? 1 yr? When the tires are cupped to [censored]?
The only times I ever get an alignment are a) if a front-end part has been replaced (tie-rod, bushings, ball-joints, etc) or if I notice abnormal tire wear.
It's probably been 7-8 years since I had to have an alignment, and that was when I replaced a bunch of bushings on the '69. In the whole 250,000 miles we owned the 93 Vision TSi, I think I had one alignment done when I replaced the tie rod ends at well over 100k miles.
If I see abnormal wear or if I hit something very forcefully.
When I have suspension work. And only sometimes. I took apart my Jetta's front end (sorta), and just lined up the rust when bolting back together; and it seems ok so far.
Our Civic I think "needed" an alignment around 150k, or I should say, I took it in and I think some bits got adjusted.
But even with our frost heaves I seem to be able to go 100k/5yr no problem. After that I seem to have repairs of some sort.
I suspect alignments are much less needed than before. Suspension parts don't wear out like they used to. My Jetta has the original tie rods and balljoints at 305kmiles/11years!
Our Civic I think "needed" an alignment around 150k, or I should say, I took it in and I think some bits got adjusted.
But even with our frost heaves I seem to be able to go 100k/5yr no problem. After that I seem to have repairs of some sort.
I suspect alignments are much less needed than before. Suspension parts don't wear out like they used to. My Jetta has the original tie rods and balljoints at 305kmiles/11years!
I usually get one with I notice the car driving funny, my A4 would get squirly on icey roads, turns out the rear toe was out. Whenever I change a component I always align the car with a tape measure and check how it drives and monitor the tires for wear before springing for an alignment, At a reputable shop its upwards of $140 for one around here.
When the steering wheel lines up with 10 or 11 o'clock
I do a fair amount of gravel roads and off road use on my pickup. I have the alignment checked once a year when I am either putting on new tires or having tires rotated. Inexpensive check for my peace of mind.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I did not think shocks or a bearing required an alignment.
If you have to undo front struts at the knuckle, the style that uses two huge bolts and friction at the interface will need an alignment if the strut holes are oblong. (OE may not be, aftermarket usually is.)
Bearings that need the knuckle undone, or the CV joint punched through so they can be replaced from behind, would muck up the alignment if the holes are elongated. (Sheesh!)
I did not think shocks or a bearing required an alignment.
If you have to undo front struts at the knuckle, the style that uses two huge bolts and friction at the interface will need an alignment if the strut holes are oblong. (OE may not be, aftermarket usually is.)
Bearings that need the knuckle undone, or the CV joint punched through so they can be replaced from behind, would muck up the alignment if the holes are elongated. (Sheesh!)
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