Mobil 1 0w20 AFE vs EP

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I just noticed that Mobil 1 is available in 0w20 EP. How does it compare to the AFE version?
I've been using Mobil 1 0w20 AFE in my wife's 2009 RAV4. Have been changing it every 5000 miles. Until now....Changed the oil right before we drove from Ohio down to Florida Keys in August. Life happened and now I have 10,000 miles on the oil (I've ALWAYS changed it at 5,000 miles prior).

I don't plan on going over 5,000 miles again, but I'm wondering if I should just put in the EP version "just in case".

Is there a significant difference between Mobil 1 AFE and Mobil 1 EP?
 
I go 10k miles or one year on AFE in our 2003 Odyssey and engine stays spotless where i look down in the filler to the top of cylinder head. Imo, regular M1 is good for 10k miles or more, but one year time limit. We have a good mix of short and longer trips. Using a filter that is made for10k miles will help too. I am using fram ultras for longer oil changes. I suppose if we drove the van more miles per year i might go for the EP since it only costs a few dollars more. It probably starts out with a higher TBN.
 
Whatever the differences between AFE and EP, they are tiny, if you look at VOAs and UOAs for that info. Maybe EP contains more PAO or esters??? Those don't show up on VOA-UOA reports.
 
5,000 miles is too frequent. You can easily go 5,000 miles on conventional. If you're not going closer to 10,000 miles on synthetic you're just wasting your money. To each his own.
 
Originally Posted By: CrawfishTails
Whatever the differences between AFE and EP, they are tiny, if you look at VOAs and UOAs for that info. Maybe EP contains more PAO or esters??? Those don't show up on VOA-UOA reports.


According to the MSDS for each product, the EP contains more PAO. Otherwise, they are VERY similar as noted.
 
overkill, thanks for that.
I was just looking at the MSDS for both. 1-decene, homopolymer hydrogenated is much higher in the EP oil compared to AFE. So better basestock in EP. Knew there had to be a difference, but the the additives like boron, moly, calcium, etc., look about the same anyway!
 
No problem
smile.gif
 
Interestingly, AFE msds lists esters, while PE does not. Yep, the Mobil chemists are up to something. Esters do add polarity, but thats not to say the PE oil isn't already polar enough at low temperatures to coat the metal.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
5,000 miles is too frequent. You can easily go 5,000 miles on conventional. If you're not going closer to 10,000 miles on synthetic you're just wasting your money. To each his own.
I hear what you're saying. But Toyota calls for 5,000 mi changes, and 0w20 is only available in synthetic.

Thank you to everyone who has responded!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: CrawfishTails
Whatever the differences between AFE and EP, they are tiny, if you look at VOAs and UOAs for that info. Maybe EP contains more PAO or esters??? Those don't show up on VOA-UOA reports.


According to the MSDS for each product, the EP contains more PAO. Otherwise, they are VERY similar as noted.

I think that why Mobil charges more for EP, except some months ago Walmart had roll-back for a while that all M1 grades/varieties were same price at $21-22 5-qt jug.

If someone like to change oil once a year with mileage above 10-12k miles then $2-3 extra for EP is money well spent.
 
Im using the EP for a 6 month run so i dont have to change oil during winter. I likely will only put about 7500 miles max during this time for added piece of mind along with a TRD filter..im sure its overkill but still.. if, "life happens" again you might feel more at ease spending the extra 2-3$. At the price point difference you could go either way. I dont think there is a wrong choice here.
 
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IIRC, "piece of mind" is something you want to give someone you're angry with. "Peace of mind" is what you frequent oil changers are after.....
 
I ran AFE for 15K in my FX4 with TBN to spare so a 5K OCI is far underutilizing it. You can search for my UOAs for details.

I have 0W-20 EP in it now and will probably go to 20K on it, but will pull a UOA at 15K to see where I stand. Either way, both are great oils.
 
Originally Posted By: JungleJim
I don't plan on going over 5,000 miles again, but I'm wondering if I should just put in the EP version "just in case".


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Any mobil one should do 10,000 miles with ease. Been doing the once a year changes with M1 since 1976. M1 is the wrong oil for 5,000 oil change intervals unless there are special circumstances.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
It's only a couple bucks, I'd say go for it for the "Just in case".
just in case what?
 
FWIW, Mobil's own data show 150 PPM less Zinc and Phos in all AFEs than standard M1 or EP. That's about 16-19% less of important additives to achieve very minor improvements in cold starting. I'd stick with EP or just use standard 5W-20.
 
Originally Posted By: JungleJim
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
5,000 miles is too frequent. You can easily go 5,000 miles on conventional. If you're not going closer to 10,000 miles on synthetic you're just wasting your money. To each his own.
I hear what you're saying. But Toyota calls for 5,000 mi changes, and 0w20 is only available in synthetic.

Thank you to everyone who has responded!


if toyota calls for 5,000 mile OCI, then 5w20 is specified.
if 0w20 is specified, then toyota calls for 10,000 mile OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
Originally Posted By: JungleJim
I don't plan on going over 5,000 miles again, but I'm wondering if I should just put in the EP version "just in case".


4VtwvFH.gif



LOL! One of the best responses here.
 
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