Lets say i have a sheathed wire and need to know if the copper is broken, yet hidden by the insulated sheath.
How can I accomplish this?
How can I accomplish this?
Testing for power
- Thread starter mjoekingz28
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Is there any reason why you can't check continuity?
hotwheels
hotwheels
Try and make a circuit with it
Yup, run the expected load and put a voltmeter at both ends of the wire. Eg source and load side. The volts shown should only be a couple percent of the votage used.
If the load is substantial and you can feel the whole wire (not part of a bundle), feel for a hot spot where the resistance is up.
If the load is substantial and you can feel the whole wire (not part of a bundle), feel for a hot spot where the resistance is up.
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
You will need to disconnect one end so you do not get an erroneous reading, they you need to attach multimeter (set on ohms) to each end, whether its to a connector or wire does not matter.
If you need to set the range for ohms, 20 or 200 ohms will be fine.
Before you do the test, set the meter to ohms and connect the two test leads together, you should see 0.
You also want to see 0 when you test this wire.
If you need to set the range for ohms, 20 or 200 ohms will be fine.
Before you do the test, set the meter to ohms and connect the two test leads together, you should see 0.
You also want to see 0 when you test this wire.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
Leaving everything hooked up, start on one end of the wire with a probe of the multi meter. Put the other probe on the device end and turn the device on. You should read less than .5VDC. More indicates an excessive voltage drop. Battery voltage indicates an open in the wire. Meter may show negative values if the leads are reversed, but the results are still relevant.
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
Leaving everything hooked up, start on one end of the wire with a probe of the multi meter. Put the other probe on the device end and turn the device on. You should read less than .5VDC. More indicates an excessive voltage drop. Battery voltage indicates an open in the wire. Meter may show negative values if the leads are reversed, but the results are still relevant.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
That's because your question was not specific enough. I thought you were talking about home wiring until you clarified it.
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
That's because your question was not specific enough. I thought you were talking about home wiring until you clarified it.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
They make very thin needle like probes that pierce insulation for a situation like this.
Normally you'd unplug the sensor/ actuator and check voltage/ ohmage that way BUT since you suspect an intermittent break in the wire you want to do it under load, eg plugged in and working.
You could use the +12v battery post for the "other end of the line" you compare against the voltage at the throttle body. If that's more than 1/2 volt more you have problems somewhere, so try the fuse and other spots as you get closer and closer to the throttle body, excluding more and more wire/ switches/ connections from the chain of suspects.
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
They make very thin needle like probes that pierce insulation for a situation like this.
Normally you'd unplug the sensor/ actuator and check voltage/ ohmage that way BUT since you suspect an intermittent break in the wire you want to do it under load, eg plugged in and working.
You could use the +12v battery post for the "other end of the line" you compare against the voltage at the throttle body. If that's more than 1/2 volt more you have problems somewhere, so try the fuse and other spots as you get closer and closer to the throttle body, excluding more and more wire/ switches/ connections from the chain of suspects.
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
That's because your question was not specific enough. I thought you were talking about home wiring until you clarified it.
Agreed. Ask a vague question, don't expect a specific answer. Also, the subject is misleading.
If you have access to both ends of the wire, I would consider an insulation displacing splice and parallel in a new wire. If it fixes your problem, you're all set. I've used these Posi-Taps and while a little expensive, were pleasant to use: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
You can also use those splices to test voltage drop across the wire as the other posters describe.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I understand none of you.
There is a wire at the throttle body that goes into the fuse block from underneath, so i would have to scrape off some of the insulation on each end to get copper then test.
I have a multimeter and a circuit tester (still in box). Ive never been good at vehicle computers, but i am decent at car audio.
That's because your question was not specific enough. I thought you were talking about home wiring until you clarified it.
Agreed. Ask a vague question, don't expect a specific answer. Also, the subject is misleading.
If you have access to both ends of the wire, I would consider an insulation displacing splice and parallel in a new wire. If it fixes your problem, you're all set. I've used these Posi-Taps and while a little expensive, were pleasant to use: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
You can also use those splices to test voltage drop across the wire as the other posters describe.
Yes, i have some splices/taps. I may just go that route.
Sorry if my question wasnt specific enough, but wheni said i understand none ofyou, i was referring to the complex nature of your knowledge, and my elementary knowledge of the subject.
Btw, in high school i signed up for electronics in votech and they dropped it the year i would have been admitted, so i took the automechanics course and learned nothing other than its best to do your own work when possible.
Sorry if my question wasnt specific enough, but wheni said i understand none ofyou, i was referring to the complex nature of your knowledge, and my elementary knowledge of the subject.
Btw, in high school i signed up for electronics in votech and they dropped it the year i would have been admitted, so i took the automechanics course and learned nothing other than its best to do your own work when possible.
If it's AC you can follow the wire with a non-contact voltage detector. If it stops beeping you have found the break.
No Tom, this is 12V. Im trying to figure out my CEL 1516 and a google search returned some folks having a break in a yellow wire coming from the cableless throttle body-going to the fuse panel.
Generally, a break in a stranded wire will be around the terminals. Before, I get out the meter, I do a visual test.
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