is a wheel bearing job easy?

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1991 Buick Park Avenue. Front right wheel bearing is whirring non stop. Easy to replace? What parts should I purchase? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I have no experience with work like this.
 
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Iv'e never done one on the front of a FWD vehicle, but I did a rear one on my 97' Camry. Only put 12k miles on it and had no problem (MasterPro O'Reilly's house brand).

BUT!!! I just checked on Amazon for you and it looks like Raybestos is clearancing out this bearing for $15! (Regularly $131).

It says they have 2 in stock, you might want to pick up both so you have the other on hand for if/when it goes. Especially since O'Reilly's wants $60 for their MasterPro.

Raybestos Wheel Bearing:
Wheel Hub Assembly on Amazon - Click Here
 
The front wheel bearing and hub come as an assembly and you can get it with or without the wheel speed sensor. That Amazon hub is a killer deal.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The front wheel bearing and hub come as an assembly and you can get it with or without the wheel speed sensor. That Amazon hub is a killer deal.
Yeah, I love Amazon for car parts. I usually go onto Rock Auto and think "wow, what a good deal" and then paste those part numbers into Amazon and see it's the same price often, and I have Amazon Prime so a lot of them I get free 2-day shipping.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Yeah, I love Amazon for car parts. I usually go onto Rock Auto and think "wow, what a good deal" and then paste those part numbers into Amazon and see it's the same price often, and I have Amazon Prime so a lot of them I get free 2-day shipping.


I'm thinking at only 15 dollars, a person would be wise to purchase a pair while they have the chance.
 
domestic wheel bearings normally are easier then imports.

Most imports bearings i've seen need to be pressed in VS the domestics i've done were bolt on. The pressed-in ones can be a little more annoying, i know they have a kit that you can use with the spindle still on the car but i've always done it the old way of removing and getting a shop to press the bearing out and new in.

The way merkava says it, your GM has the bolt-on one. Should be easy since your in FL as well. Over here in the midwest, that speed sensor will be seized on.

I say you have a good shot at it. $15 for a wheel bearing assembly... DO BOTH!
 
Ditto on doing it yourself in Fla. Now up here in the Rustbelt I have yet to tackle anything on suspension that didn't require using a torch to either heat it or even cut it off. Otherwise it just unbolts . It's always advisable to spray some penetrating oil like PB Blaster on there for at least a few days before going at it. Spray it a few times and let it soak good.
FWIW make sure you put the seal on the back when you put it together. It seems GM in their wisdom and or oversight just leaves them off sometimes. I found that out when I pulled the 1st one on my daughters 03 Cavalier. I always wondered if they had run out of seals that day, the guy on the line was lazy or just left it off on purpose. Nice job GM. Sort of typical for them in my experience.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Yeah, I love Amazon for car parts. I usually go onto Rock Auto and think "wow, what a good deal" and then paste those part numbers into Amazon and see it's the same price often, and I have Amazon Prime so a lot of them I get free 2-day shipping.


I'm thinking at only 15 dollars, a person would be wise to purchase a pair while they have the chance.


Merk- At only $15, they should be able to afford to send you a pair of free samples.
 
It unbolts. There should be a writeup online somewhere on how to do it. IIRC a big bleeping hammer was useful to knock out the old one. Don't be surprised if the back half stays stuck and needs to be chiseled out.
 
Since the car is new to you, go on down to the auto parts store and pick up a good repair manual. It will give you some good idea about this and future jobs you will be doing on your car. You should learn something from the word descriptions, photos, and how to go about it.
Good luck. And get yourself a good set of hand tools. Sounds like you will need them in the future. Have fun wrenching
 
Well unfortunately the car lived up north for most of its life, so the undercarriage has some rust. That at being 24 years old I am thinking that it might be pretty hard getting that old bearing assembly off.
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Since the car is new to you, go on down to the auto parts store and pick up a good repair manual. It will give you some good idea about this and future jobs you will be doing on your car. You should learn something from the word descriptions, photos, and how to go about it.
Good luck. And get yourself a good set of hand tools. Sounds like you will need them in the future. Have fun wrenching


Please tell us what a "good repair manual" looks like nowadays. To me it wouldn't include a vague low resolution black and white picture with no arrows or circles, and a set of directions that read like "remove A, remove B, remove C, reassemble in reverse order." It also would not include any manual that didn't list the required tools up front for each job. In other words, anything from Chilton or Haynes in the past few decades.

If the OP has zero experience with cars he might benefit from the exceedingly vague and broad non-vehicle-specific introduction.
 
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Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
You'll also need a socket for the axle nut. Anyone here know what size it is?


IIRC it's a 34mm nut that's torqued on there pretty well. A battery-operated impact gun can take one off at full charge, but will need a minute or so to spin it off.
 
Watch some youtubes.

I've done plenty of GM axle nuts, just get a harbor freight breaker bar, socket, and some pipe. A torque wrench isn't an awful idea either, at $10 after coupon.

If a bearing is too intimidating you can do a junkyard "spindle" which will include bearing, ABS sensor, and instead you'll have to separate strut, ball joint, rod end, and brake caliper. Your choice. But for $15 for a new part, hard to resist.

If they have torx heads (like cavaliers), use a top shelf socket, it's sad to strip those.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If a bearing is too intimidating you can do a junkyard "spindle" which will include bearing, ABS sensor, and instead you'll have to separate strut, ball joint, rod end, and brake caliper.


That's the way I do it. I just find it easier to take the steering knuckle off with the hub still attached to it. Then I install the new hub on the steering knuckle before I put the steering knuckle back on the chassis. And with my Buick, the alignment is not affected by doing it that way either.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Please tell us what a "good repair manual" looks like nowadays.


Anything from Helm Inc.


OK, factory manuals are usually good.

I should have asked what "good repair manual" I can find in an auto parts store, as in the first statement "... go on down to the auto parts store and pick up a good repair manual."

None of my local auto parts stores carry Helm.
 
when it comes to repairs you haven't done before and want some kind of highlight before you get into it, google is your friend, that and youtube.

you'd be surprised how many free diy tutorials there are out there that people are willing to provide.
 
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