1991 check engine light codes....

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gregk24

gregk24

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So I just went outside and read the codes on the Buick using a paper clip. Here is what I have...
- 38 - brake switch circuit
- 41 - cylinder select error- mem-cal or ecm problem
- cam sensor circut (3.8 models)
- 42 - bypass or electronic spark timing (est) circuit
- 66 - pressure sensor or circuit air conditioning
- 67 - nothing listed on gm trouble codes site, do you know what this is?

What does this all mean? Car drives ok, here are all the issues it has..
- SOMETIMES wont start until you try two or three times, or give it gas
- bad wheel bearing(s)?
- front engine fans don't kick on (although they did during this test)
- A/C doesn't work but heat does.
- ABS light is on but brakes work fine.
So what do you say?
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
It means you should take the car to the shop!!!


Funny. This is my brothers car and he is on an EXTREME budget. He and my dad plan on replacing the wheel bearing eventually. After that though Im pretty sure everything else will have to be done at the shop. Not sure if any of these are major issues or if they can be lived with without damaging anything. We can live without A/C but that cam sensor code sounds kind of scary. Not sure what that is.
 
If a cam sensor does fail, it can easily make the engine stall out. With failed cam and crank sensors, the ECU can't determine when to fire spark and inject fuel.

Some cars will function with only a cam sensor or only a crank sensor, but they will not run well.

If a sensor fails intermittently, the engine may misfire, and may sometimes stall.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If a cam sensor does fail, it can easily make the engine stall out. With failed cam and crank sensors, the ECU can't determine when to fire spark and inject fuel.

Some cars will function with only a cam sensor or only a crank sensor, but they will not run well.

If a sensor fails intermittently, the engine may misfire, and may sometimes stall.

had the cam sensor on my neon go out, at first intermittently, (triggering Limp mode), then would have to crank for 30 sec or so before firing, then finally total failure. Part was like $45 at AZ, ended up listening to my dad, and going to the stealer, and spending over $200 installed.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: earlyre
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If a cam sensor does fail, it can easily make the engine stall out. With failed cam and crank sensors, the ECU can't determine when to fire spark and inject fuel.

Some cars will function with only a cam sensor or only a crank sensor, but they will not run well.

If a sensor fails intermittently, the engine may misfire, and may sometimes stall.

had the cam sensor on my neon go out, at first intermittently, (triggering Limp mode), then would have to crank for 30 sec or so before firing, then finally total failure. Part was like $45 at AZ, ended up listening to my dad, and going to the stealer, and spending over $200 installed.

Generic sensors from parts stores tend not to last. OEM sensors are totally worth it.
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
So I just went outside and read the codes on the Buick using a paper clip. Here is what I have...
- 38 - brake switch circuit
- 41 - cylinder select error- mem-cal or ecm problem
- cam sensor circut (3.8 models)
- 42 - bypass or electronic spark timing (est) circuit
- 66 - pressure sensor or circuit air conditioning
- 67 - nothing listed on gm trouble codes site, do you know what this is?

What does this all mean? Car drives ok, here are all the issues it has..
- SOMETIMES wont start until you try two or three times, or give it gas
- bad wheel bearing(s)?
- front engine fans don't kick on (although they did during this test)
- A/C doesn't work but heat does.
- ABS light is on but brakes work fine.
So what do you say?


Code 67- Cruise switch was open between Cruise Engage and the PCM, or the Set/Coast switch was closed for too long, or the Resume/Accel switch was closed for too long, or the Cruise switch was open between the PCM and Brake switch after the vehicle had made 5 stops of 10 seconds or longer, or any of the cruise switches have been shorted to voltage.

Disconnect negative battery terminal for a minute or two to reset codes after you have logged them.

Test drive vehicle and then check for remaining codes

Fix problems that make vehicle stop first.

Fix problems that make vehicle go next.
 
The bad wheel bearing might relate to your ABS lights, it has to line up the toothy doohickey rather precisely with its sensor.

However, also, the wiring pigtail going to the sensor gets metal fatigue right at the connector and fails internally.

If you can get live data you can see if your coolant temp sensor is reading cold, this would explain running wierd (rich) and the fans never coming on automatically.
 
Order up some parts, and get to it.

Delco 213279 crank sensor for $40
Rent the crank pully puller from any auto store

Temp gauge work correctly?

Do your little stuff, clean the throttle body, clean the MAF sensor, air/fuel filter.

Disconnect the battery to clear the codes, and see what comes back.

Then move on to the wheel bearing.

RockAuto and Google exist for a reason, if a crank sensor sounds "Scary", why are you asking us for help?
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
The bad wheel bearing might relate to your ABS lights, it has to line up the toothy doohickey rather precisely with its sensor.

However, also, the wiring pigtail going to the sensor gets metal fatigue right at the connector and fails internally.

If you can get live data you can see if your coolant temp sensor is reading cold, this would explain running wierd (rich) and the fans never coming on automatically.

Good point on the coolant temp sensor. Typically they don't trigger a check engine light unless the resistance of the sensor is out of the engine temperature range.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Do the brake lights work?


Yes they all work except for the one on top of the trunk
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Do the brake lights work?


Yes they all work except for the one on top of the trunk


On some GM cars, a burned out center bulb can cause an error, whereas when another bulb burns out, it may not set an error.

Replacing that center bulb should be priority number one, you don't want to have a crash that can be considered your fault, and you don't want to pay a traffic ticket.
 
Originally Posted By: earlyre
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If a cam sensor does fail, it can easily make the engine stall out. With failed cam and crank sensors, the ECU can't determine when to fire spark and inject fuel.

Some cars will function with only a cam sensor or only a crank sensor, but they will not run well.

If a sensor fails intermittently, the engine may misfire, and may sometimes stall.

had the cam sensor on my neon go out, at first intermittently, (triggering Limp mode), then would have to crank for 30 sec or so before firing, then finally total failure. Part was like $45 at AZ, ended up listening to my dad, and going to the stealer, and spending over $200 installed.

where in the world is the cam sensor located? on our toyotas...they are very easily accessible and right above where the upper radiator hose connects to the cylinder head.

Should be easy to replace yourself.
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: CT8
It means you should take the car to the shop!!!


Funny. This is my brothers car and he is on an EXTREME budget. He and my dad plan on replacing the wheel bearing eventually. After that though Im pretty sure everything else will have to be done at the shop. Not sure if any of these are major issues or if they can be lived with without damaging anything. We can live without A/C but that cam sensor code sounds kind of scary. Not sure what that is.

if you were here in STL, I would hook you up with this GM mechanic (he rents space in our private busing company) who specializes in them, ridiculously cheap as well, this guy is brilliant at diagnosing issues, he and this toyota tech I know give me confidence in mechanics, rest I have met are close to brainless.
 
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: earlyre
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If a cam sensor does fail, it can easily make the engine stall out. With failed cam and crank sensors, the ECU can't determine when to fire spark and inject fuel.

Some cars will function with only a cam sensor or only a crank sensor, but they will not run well.

If a sensor fails intermittently, the engine may misfire, and may sometimes stall.

had the cam sensor on my neon go out, at first intermittently, (triggering Limp mode), then would have to crank for 30 sec or so before firing, then finally total failure. Part was like $45 at AZ, ended up listening to my dad, and going to the stealer, and spending over $200 installed.

where in the world is the cam sensor located? on our toyotas...they are very easily accessible and right above where the upper radiator hose connects to the cylinder head.

Should be easy to replace yourself.
With the older GMs, they're behind the crankshaft pulley.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: earlyre
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If a cam sensor does fail, it can easily make the engine stall out. With failed cam and crank sensors, the ECU can't determine when to fire spark and inject fuel.

Some cars will function with only a cam sensor or only a crank sensor, but they will not run well.

If a sensor fails intermittently, the engine may misfire, and may sometimes stall.

had the cam sensor on my neon go out, at first intermittently, (triggering Limp mode), then would have to crank for 30 sec or so before firing, then finally total failure. Part was like $45 at AZ, ended up listening to my dad, and going to the stealer, and spending over $200 installed.

where in the world is the cam sensor located? on our toyotas...they are very easily accessible and right above where the upper radiator hose connects to the cylinder head.

Should be easy to replace yourself.
With the older GMs, they're behind the crankshaft pulley.

A camshaft position sensor? That doesn't make any sense, would be near the camshaft not crankshaft, that would be the crankshaft position sensor
 
Since it can be hard to start, when was the last tune up? It's a 24 year old car owned by someone on a tight budget. Leaky plug wires can reek havoc on the computer.
 
Get a service manual and see where these sensors are. On my Jeep 4.0 the cam sensor was a 10 minute job I did myself. The crank sensor was a pain even for the mechanic who did it on a lift.

I would recheck the codes, maybe you blinked while counting. Seems like any awful lot of codes.

How many years has the car been driven with the CEL on? Since the turn of the century?
 
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