Fluid extractor on the cheap?

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I'm due for my first oil change on my Passat TDI, and if anyone is familiar with these cars, they will know there is a factory plastic belly pan. This obviously adds extra time and steps to an oil change. I've done it traditionally before from underneath on my long gone Golf TDI, but this time around, I would like to save some time if possible. Topside oil changes seem to be the thing to do among many in the TDI community, and I know several here on BITOG have done it on a variety of makes and models.

The usual implement to do this of course is usually a fluid extractor by the likes of Pela, Mityvac , Motive, etc. Lowest cost model of any of these are typically $60.

I am looking for something I can put together locally, and at a reasonable cost. I have come up with a few options, and would like to hear of others' successes or failures with these or similar products. Should whatever I end up using to do my first topside oil change fail, I will simply defer to going underneath as usual.

1. 1.6L Gas/Oil extractor from Princess Auto: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/gas-oil-extractor/A-p8469512e

One reviewer on the site used it to draw out ATF. Downside that I can see is that the small capacity means stopping a few times to empty the reservoir.

2. Basically option 1, but now I take the tank from a garden sprayer such as this one: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/multi-purpose-sprayer/A-p8547499e

I simply substitute the small tank of the extractor with the one from the garden sprayer. Looks like the extractor is basically a giant cork. I need to confirm this is the case, and it is not threaded in, or of threaded, then the same size as the garden sprayer tank. Assuming I get a full seal one way or another, any downsides?

3. Completely different course of action, using a drill pump, in particular this one: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/self-priming-drill-pump/A-p5770771e

I have read many posts in a variety of forums - different makes and models of cars, and also marine applications for oil changes. Results seem to be mixed, with half saying it works, the other half saying it did nothing. For those who had success with this and elaborated, it seems they pre-prime it with oil, either by pouring/forcing it in, or unscrewing it and adding oil to the impeller area.

Thoughts? Proper fluid extractors by Pela and the likes don't appear to be that easily attainable locally, so hoping one of these methods is a good option. Cost is low enough that if it fails for me, I'm not particularly worried, and can probably find other uses at some point for what I end up buying.

(Yes, they have their generic ones, but at a similar or higher cost than a name brand, so no thanks, I'd rather go through the hassle of sourcing a name brand from elsewhere).
 
I picked this extractor up from Princess Auto a couple of years ago.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/9-1-2-litre-manual-fluid-extractor/A-p8319667e

It works ok, takes longer to get the fluid out. I'm not sure if the other ones you listed will work or will you need to get some other tubing to be able to make it fit into your dipstick.

Keep in mind that some of the stuff sitting on the bottom of the oil pan might not be picked up by the fluid extractor.

Regards, JC.
 
Saw those, but they cost more than the Pelas and Mityvacs. Only advantage of those is they are local, versus having to ship in the Pela or Mityvac.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GU0MMU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1

This is what I've been using on all the vehicles in my signature for the past 2+ years and it works great! Especially on the front differential on the Explorer that you can't take the cover off because the cross member is in the way. It has a STURDY narrow metal spiral tube instead of that cheap plastic tubing you're looking at. Do yourself a favor and pony up the 50 bucks for something that will work.
 
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Not a lot cheaper but a very effective manual extractor is the Topsider. I bought mine off Amazon about 3 years ago to do VW Beetle oil changes. I've since used it for Rear Diff. fluid change, power steering fluid change, about 6 oil changes, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_7_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=topsider+oil+extractor&sprefix=topsider%2Caps%2C156

$50 and works as advertised.
 
I had Topsider more than 13-15 years ago, it didn't lasted more than 2-3 oil changes. Mityvac 7201 lasted more than 10 years since 2004 and it's still working great.

Buy a good one for a little more but you can use it for many years. Of all fluid extractors I think Mityvac 7201 is the best for the money.
 
For my 2004 Passat with the 1.8T, I built myself a little trap door in the belly pan. The trap door is about 14cm x 18cm - enough to get the wrench in, and enough to allow the oil to drain out without landing on the belly pan. The hinge (zip ties) is on the short side & Zip ties keep it closed.
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I know you won't do this to a brand new car, but for future years...it is nice and fast way to do a oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: slug_bug
Not a lot cheaper but a very effective manual extractor is the Topsider. I bought mine off Amazon about 3 years ago to do VW Beetle oil changes. I've since used it for Rear Diff. fluid change, power steering fluid change, about 6 oil changes, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_7_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=topsider+oil+extractor&sprefix=topsider%2Caps%2C156

$50 and works as advertised.

I used the Topsider on my W126 and W202 Mercedes. Never a problem with it. But the Park Avenue and now the Regal aren't designed for an extractor.
 
I asked this in a previous thread, but got no response so I'll ask here.
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Has anyone ever had an issue with the suction hose getting stuck down inside the fill tube?

I was removing some ATF out of my Jeep last spring and it became stuck on something. I was afraid if I pulled too hard, it would have broke the hose. Thankfully I had to drop the pan anyways, but it would have stunk if it originally wasn't part of the plan. Lol.
 
Link

I have this one. Cant go wrong for $20. My biggest complaint was that it drained my battery.. But I did my ATF drain when my CPS was acting up so maybe it was from my Jeep not being driven enough. When my Jeep is in neutral, the ATF pump doesn't run so technically I could drain the transmission with the engine running. I could also hook it up to the running garden tractor, another car etc while I am doing the drain too.

As mentioned in my above post, the suction hose got stuck down inside my fill tube. I guess that's another flaw, but I had planned to drop the pan anyways.

Next ATF drain I plan on just using the pump without doing a pan drop so we shall see how it "pans out."
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Has anyone ever had an issue with the suction hose getting stuck down inside the fill tube?


Never had that happen. Which device were you using? I know the Subaru has baffles in it but the tube on the Hydro-Turf is narrow enough to go right through them to the bottom.
 
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The suction hose was just that clear PCV tubing. Is this what other pumps use as well?

Something stiff would be preferred so the hose cant curl up and get caught inside the pan.
 
The Hydro-turf tube is metal and it has gone down everything I've tried it on. The cars in my sig, a Chrysler Sebring, Dodge Caliber and Infiniti I30 with no problem.
 
Hmm, I may either just do it from underneath this time, or give the small capacity extractor from Princess Auto a try. For $15 bucks, it doesn't hurt. I see Northern Tool seems to sell the same thing, and comments there were also positive.

Worst case, I start looking for a Pela, Mityvac or Hydro-turf in time for the next change on this car.
 
I bought Mityvac 7201 for $6x more than 10 years, I used it to change: oil, ATF, brake fluid in my 3-4 cars.

If I amortize each use at $5 I got my money back 5-6 years ago so it was a free tool at around 2008-2009. If I amortize each use at $2 I got my money back now.
 
Something stiff would be preferred so the hose cant curl up and get caught inside the pan. [/quote]


Look around at some old or replacement brake line. If not that then I bet the small copper or steel refrigeration line you can get at a scrap yard or hardware store would work. That's handy stuff to keep around the garage even if it doesn't do the trick for you.
 
Im looking for one myself. I have been using a hand pump with a very narrow diameter. After eight years of using it i am going to try an move on. I just pumped probably 6 times and got c. Two ounces. Very slowly i might add as the psf was very viscious in the 40f ish weather.

Im interested in this Amsoil unit, Pablo, can you tell me the CoO, and is it cleanable? G2576

Also, Pablo....or any owners, what is the capacity of this extractor?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Link

When my Jeep is in neutral, the ATF pump doesn't run so technically I could drain the transmission with the engine running.



I would not recommend doing this for a couple of reasons. The 42RE transmission in your Jeep (as with all Torqueflite-based units) actually runs the pump in Neutral - but bypasses the pump's output in Park. That is why the manual specifies that the fluid should be checked with it hot idling in Neutral.

If you run the engine while pumping fluid out through the dipstick tube you run the risk of "running dry" regardless of whether it is in Neutral or Park and damaging something because things are still rotating (like the torque converter which also drives the pump directly off of its neck whenever the engine is running) while the fluid is being pumped out. I would use your electric pump hooked up to something else like your tractor and pump the fluid out with the engine in the Jeep shut off.

Andrew S.

'96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 42RE 252K
 
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