Replace everything while I am at it?

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I will be replacing the front struts and strut mounts (KYB), tie rod ends (Moog), front wheel bearing/hub assemblies (SKF), and rear stabilizer bar links (Moog) on the GP next weekend. All of that is a parts investment of about $550. I am thinking of springing another $150 to replace the front ball joints and stabilizer bar links with Moog Problem Solvers while I have the front end pulled apart and will be getting an alignment anyway. As far as I can tell, the ball joints and front stabilizer bar links are fine, but they have 159,000 miles on them and are not greasable (the Moogs are). Should I leave those items alone or, on the flip side, is there anything else I should consider replacing while I am messing with the front end?
 
What car is this and how long do you think you will keep it?

I would probably use a cheaper tie rod and ball joint unless you think it will go another 100k. Raybestos service grade and ACdelco advantage are good cheaper parts.
 
Given the labor involved with the front struts, I think it may be a good time to go ahead and tackle the ball joints too. At those miles, you might start noticing slop in them at any time. If the boots are fully intact with no cracks, I would think twice about replacing them, but if the boots show any signs of aging, I'd deal with it now while the front suspension is apart.

Personally though, I'd probably shop brands other than Moog. Moog isn't the worst, but they aren't what they used to be. I have heard too many complaints to trust them for something where major labor is involved. Tie rod ends are no big deal, but ball joints are. I would look and see what Raybestos Pro and Deeza offer for your application.

I replaced the ball joints on my truck before they showed signs of play because the boots were torn. I have no idea how much life I could have squeezed out of them, but the timing was good to go ahead and get it done, so they got replaced. I knew things were about to get busy for me, and I didn't need them to start creaking and groaning while I was busy. I went with Raybestos Pro and have been very pleased with them. Top notch quality and finish, no issues in the 35K miles they have been on there.

You may want to consider replacing the control arm bushings if they show wear or have any play. The bushings on my truck are original and fine, but it seems like FWD cars are a little harder on control arm bushings. I would consider doing the front sway bar links and bushings as well depending on condition.
 
I would do what you posted along with the springs. A KYB quick strut will give you the whole assy mount and all.
Moog problem solver lower control arms give you not only new ball joints but the new heim joint style front bushing.
160K everything is getting tired.
 
Do you have to grind out rivets to do the ball joints? This is kind of a hassle, but if you want to...

There are lots of mediocre front end parts including stuff on your list (bearings) so I applaud you for going top-shelf on a car that's obviously in its midlife and not on death's door.
 
I've had nothing but bad luck with Moog ball joints. I'll buy their tie rod ends because they're inexpensive and easy to replace, but never another ball joint from them.
 
Id replace it all if it is difficult to do again.

If it is easy to access and replace in the future, and looks good and tight, I would consider waiting.

But it is nice to have everything baselined, and some new parts may cause others to wear faster... So my gut would be to do all.
 
Originally Posted By: Jimzz
What car is this and how long do you think you will keep it?

I would probably use a cheaper tie rod and ball joint unless you think it will go another 100k. Raybestos service grade and ACdelco advantage are good cheaper parts.

2006 Pontiac Grand Prix. I have no plans of getting rid of it anytime soon. I figure the next thing to go will be the transmission (not soon, but maybe in 25k+ miles) and I will have it rebuilt or replace it with a built unit at that time. The body is in great shape, engine is strong, no rust to speak of, and the interior is in great shape for the mileage. I love this car and would rather put $2,000 in it each year than buy something else. I would rather spend the extra $40 and go with the Moogs over the Raybestos Service Grade or ACDelco Advantage.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Given the labor involved with the front struts, I think it may be a good time to go ahead and tackle the ball joints too. At those miles, you might start noticing slop in them at any time. If the boots are fully intact with no cracks, I would think twice about replacing them, but if the boots show any signs of aging, I'd deal with it now while the front suspension is apart.

Personally though, I'd probably shop brands other than Moog. Moog isn't the worst, but they aren't what they used to be. I have heard too many complaints to trust them for something where major labor is involved. Tie rod ends are no big deal, but ball joints are. I would look and see what Raybestos Pro and Deeza offer for your application.

I replaced the ball joints on my truck before they showed signs of play because the boots were torn. I have no idea how much life I could have squeezed out of them, but the timing was good to go ahead and get it done, so they got replaced. I knew things were about to get busy for me, and I didn't need them to start creaking and groaning while I was busy. I went with Raybestos Pro and have been very pleased with them. Top notch quality and finish, no issues in the 35K miles they have been on there.

You may want to consider replacing the control arm bushings if they show wear or have any play. The bushings on my truck are original and fine, but it seems like FWD cars are a little harder on control arm bushings. I would consider doing the front sway bar links and bushings as well depending on condition.

Thanks for the input, especially about replacing the control arm bushings.
 
If this is for your Pontiac, there's a good chance your lower control are bushings are worn more than your ball joints are.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would do what you posted along with the springs. A KYB quick strut will give you the whole assy mount and all.
Moog problem solver lower control arms give you not only new ball joints but the new heim joint style front bushing.
160K everything is getting tired.

KYB does not offer a quick strut for my application (17" wheels), otherwise I would be all over that. Monroe offers one, but I want KYBs based on what I have read and I already purchased the struts, bellows, and lower spring insulators. I will forgo new springs unless you think they really are worth the added $40 plus shipping for the pair. (Moogs are on closeout on RockAuto; Raybestos and ACDelco are $90 for the pair).

The Moog Problem Solver control arms are $100 each whereas the Raybestos Professional Grade are $55 each. What do you think about the Raybestos?
 
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
I will be replacing the front struts and strut mounts (KYB), tie rod ends (Moog), front wheel bearing/hub assemblies (SKF), and rear stabilizer bar links (Moog) on the GP next weekend. All of that is a parts investment of about $550. I am thinking of springing another $150 to replace the front ball joints and stabilizer bar links with Moog Problem Solvers while I have the front end pulled apart and will be getting an alignment anyway. As far as I can tell, the ball joints and front stabilizer bar links are fine, but they have 159,000 miles on them and are not greasable (the Moogs are). Should I leave those items alone or, on the flip side, is there anything else I should consider replacing while I am messing with the front end?


I did the struts first, then had to go back and do ball joints and stabilizer bar links later. I would do them while it's all apart. +1 on the Raybestos. I picked the raybestos Ball joints and stabilizer bar links from Rockauto. I changed the lower control arm bushings, but next time I would just get brand new lower control arms. I think Raybestos would be fine for the Lower control arms.


Regards, JC.
 
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I'm no big Moog fan but in this case they are the best. The new joint instead of the rubber donut bushing is a worthwhile upgrade.
For a stock replacement Raybestos Pro is fine, don't go with their service grade parts.

The KYB is a better strut than the Monroe so i can understand you using them, at least check the spring free length and check it for corrosion especially near the ends.
The Moog spings are fine and only $40 a pair closeout on Rock if you need them
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Id replace it all if it is difficult to do again.

If it is easy to access and replace in the future, and looks good and tight, I would consider waiting.


But it is nice to have everything baselined, and some new parts may cause others to wear faster... So my gut would be to do all.

I agree.
If you replace these parts yourself then this recommendation is just right. If you buy all the parts and have a mechanic replace it then you should replace all, that way he/she charges a little less labor to replace front ball joints and stabilizer bar links.
 
It would be a tragedy if new ball joint boots get nicked during transmission replacement.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I'm no big Moog fan but in this case they are the best. The new joint instead of the rubber donut bushing is a worthwhile upgrade.
For a stock replacement Raybestos Pro is fine, don't go with their service grade parts.

The KYB is a better strut than the Monroe so i can understand you using them, at least check the spring free length and check it for corrosion especially near the ends.
The Moog spings are fine and only $40 a pair closeout on Rock if you need them

Purchasing complete Raybestos control arm assemblies and the upgraded Moog "front lower forward" (vertical) bushings and then replacing the Raybestos donut bushings with the Moog units would be $20 cheaper per side. Does that sound like a solid plan or are the bushings difficult to remove and install? Not trying to cheap out here, but things are starting to really add up.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
It would be a tragedy if new ball joint boots get nicked during transmission replacement.

Is this some sort of shakedown? Are you now going to offer me "protection" for a small fee?
grin.gif
 
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