95 Corolla manual transaxle oil

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Rtstrider

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Hey bitogers! I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row with my wifes 95 Toyota Corolla. I have all the service records back to the first oil change and do not show any mention of any oil changes on the manual transmission. I have the Haynes manual and it states GL4 or 5 and 75w90 or 80w90 can be used. I was going to grab a gallon of Supertech 80w90 since it is cheap and run it for an oil change or two then move it on up to a better gear oil. My question is would it be ok to run the Supertech 80w90 in there? I know ST got in trouble a few years ago due to the loose regulations on their gear oils. Here's a link to what I'm looking at and bear in mind this is strictly from a price standpoint.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-80W-90-High-Performance-Gear-Oil-1-Gallon/16795067
 
GL-4 (only) such as Pennzoil Synchromesh would probably work better-I ran GL-4/GL-5 rated 75W90 full syn Royal Purple gear oil in the transaxle in the xB in my signature & the synchronizers didn't work well at all. Practically had to double-clutch every shift to stop from grinding gears.
 
In some transmissions there are issues using GL-5 oil in a transmission designed for GL-4 due to the EP additives causing corrosion to brass parts. But...given that the Corolla is rated for GL-5 (I checked Amsoil's lookup table) I'd use it without hesitation for the short term.

In fact...when I was having problems with the CV axle seals on my wife's Lancer that calls for GL-4, I used the GL-5 Supertech until I got the seals fixed. No sense leaking out RedLine or AMSOil! I then flushed it and replaced it with the good stuff. (RedLine MT-85 this time)

thanks,
ben
 
If you want something good and cheap,Sta Lube GL4 85W90. Stay with a GL4 only. I'd check the Toyota FSM before even considering a GL5. It'd probably give you gear clash/grind on every shift. Toyota dealership might have a good GL4 MTF.
 
Redline MT90 is highly regarded on the Toyota forums in manual transaxle applications such as yours.
I bought some but have yet to do the drain & fill.
 
It may not be ideal, but I don't know if it would cause a problem.

One idea is to use the low price gear oil for a short period of time, then replace it with premium oil. That removes much of the wear metal, then leaves a transmission very clean, and leads to more life from the premium oil.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
GL-4 (only) such as Pennzoil Synchromesh would probably work better-I ran GL-4/GL-5 rated 75W90 full syn Royal Purple gear oil in the transaxle in the xB in my signature & the synchronizers didn't work well at all. Practically had to double-clutch every shift to stop from grinding gears.


I had a '93 and started having the grind between shifts mostly higher rpm. Did many changes, syn, dino etc.

Last shot on recommendation from friend (mechanic at BMW) was BG Synchroshift II. 30 miles later grinding was gone for good. The thicker fluids were putting extra drag on synchros.
 
go for the thinner MTF. The days of w90 MTFs are over. The thinner fluids are better.
 
I changed the manual transaxle gear oil on my Mazda to Redline MT90 75w90 after 58,000 miles. One thing to note is that it took about two weeks and ~1,000 miles before shifting improved. I am not quite sure why but it got better over time. At first it seemed to be "notchy" when I shifted.

The gear oils from Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline etc should be more than adequate. Use a GL-4 IMHO. Just be cognizant that if you go with a Redline oil that MT-90 75w90 and 75w90 Gear Oil are different products. I believe the regular 75w90 is more for differentials whereas the MT-90 is for manual transmissions.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: GMFan
I changed the manual transaxle gear oil on my Mazda to Redline MT90 75w90 after 58,000 miles. One thing to note is that it took about two weeks and ~1,000 miles before shifting improved. I am not quite sure why but it got better over time. At first it seemed to be "notchy" when I shifted.

The gear oils from Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline etc should be more than adequate. Use a GL-4 IMHO. Just be cognizant that if you go with a Redline oil that MT-90 75w90 and 75w90 Gear Oil are different products. I believe the regular 75w90 is more for differentials whereas the MT-90 is for manual transmissions.


That is because it sheared and got thinner. It is also why Mazda now specs thinner fluid for your transmission.
 
Then let me ask this. The chiltons manual states it can use gl4 or 5 and 75w 90 or 80w 90. The car will be enduring the extreme Florida panhandle heat in the summer and mild winters. Being an older car I'm more of slow pundit when it comes to changing fluids. Meaning I plan on leaving this in for an oil change or two, and drain/fill say the next 2-3 oci to get all gunk out of there. I'm really strapped for cash so that's why I'm looking at the supertech option. My other question is...How would I know if the corolla had yellow metals, brass, etc that could be harmed by gl5?

edit: My other concern is that it looks like the Supertech 75w90 has the LS additive and the 80w90 does not. I've read before it's not good to use gear oil with the LS additives in manual transmissions. I will be the first to admit this is a whole new venture for me so I know just enough to get me in trouble which is why I'm full of questions.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: badtlc
go for the thinner MTF. The days of w90 MTFs are over. The thinner fluids are better.


You're recommending people use unapproved fluids in their vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
Then let me ask this. The chiltons manual states it can use gl4 or 5 and 75w 90 or 80w 90. The car will be enduring the extreme Florida panhandle heat in the summer and mild winters. Being an older car I'm more of slow pundit when it comes to changing fluids. Meaning I plan on leaving this in for an oil change or two, and drain/fill say the next 2-3 oci to get all gunk out of there. I'm really strapped for cash so that's why I'm looking at the supertech option. My other question is...How would I know if the corolla had yellow metals, brass, etc that could be harmed by gl5?

edit: My other concern is that it looks like the Supertech 75w90 has the LS additive and the 80w90 does not. I've read before it's not good to use gear oil with the LS additives in manual transmissions. I will be the first to admit this is a whole new venture for me so I know just enough to get me in trouble which is why I'm full of questions.


Pretty much all GL-5 fluids now contain limited slip additive which will make shifting horrible in a synchronized manual transmission.

Do yourself a favor and go buy the Ford fluid I mentioned above; it's the perfect choice for your Corolla.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: badtlc
go for the thinner MTF. The days of w90 MTFs are over. The thinner fluids are better.


You're recommending people use unapproved fluids in their vehicle.


Of course. Technology improves. No reason not to change with it. Many people drive vehicles that spec API SJ or older oils. Should they not use API SN since it wasn't spec'd for it?

A synchronized FWD MTX isn't a complicated situation. Many manufacturers across the world have updated spec's for MTXs originally designed on W90 MTF and now run them on thinner fluids. It is a simple system. There is little risk/harm that can be done just changing viscosity. Add packs is where the danger lies.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: badtlc
go for the thinner MTF. The days of w90 MTFs are over. The thinner fluids are better.


You're recommending people use unapproved fluids in their vehicle.


Of course. Technology improves. No reason not to change with it. Many people drive vehicles that spec API SJ or older oils. Should they not use API SN since it wasn't spec'd for it?

A synchronized FWD MTX isn't a complicated situation. Many manufacturers across the world have updated spec's for MTXs originally designed on W90 MTF and now run them on thinner fluids. It is a simple system. There is little risk/harm that can be done just changing viscosity. Add packs is where the danger lies.


I understand that the ratings are different, and the viscosity of a 90w gear oil isn't too much different than a 40 grade motor oil, but a lot of people run motor oil and ATF in transmissions. ATF is significantly lighter than gear oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88

I understand that the ratings are different, and the viscosity of a 90w gear oil isn't too much different than a 40 grade motor oil, but a lot of people run motor oil and ATF in transmissions. ATF is significantly lighter than gear oil.


It used to be. Most newer MTF spec's are for fluids in the ATF viscosity range, maybe a tad thicker in a few applications here or there.

VW specs a 75W-90 which is well over 12 cSt and then put a ~7 cSt fluid in it at the factory.
 
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