91 Civic 3door Hatch Si Blue Smoke
- Thread starter Gito
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It's time to jack up the radiator cap and slide a new car underneath....
j/k
j/k
Originally Posted By: Gito
I take it that a torque wrench is absolutely necessary...
Absolutely 100%. And a shop manual. There are some specific and special techniques required.
Do not attempt the replacement of the valve stem seals without either of the above tools.
I take it that a torque wrench is absolutely necessary...
Absolutely 100%. And a shop manual. There are some specific and special techniques required.
Do not attempt the replacement of the valve stem seals without either of the above tools.
Originally Posted By: Gito
Looking for a shop Manual for my 1991 Honda Civic Si, 1.6L Hatchback
Need to replace the valve stem seals
Anything online?
I don't think specifically for the '91. I have a (very large) PDF of the '88-'90 manual, but valve-stem-seal replacement is not covered.
I do have the actual original paper '91 Civic shop manual. It is complete and I am unlikely to ever need it again. I see that there are a number for sale on eBay.
Looking for a shop Manual for my 1991 Honda Civic Si, 1.6L Hatchback
Need to replace the valve stem seals
Anything online?
I don't think specifically for the '91. I have a (very large) PDF of the '88-'90 manual, but valve-stem-seal replacement is not covered.
I do have the actual original paper '91 Civic shop manual. It is complete and I am unlikely to ever need it again. I see that there are a number for sale on eBay.
If you have oil smoke that gets worse when you floor the gas, that is because the piston rings are worn out. Replacing the valve stem seals will not help.
Valve stem seals can be replaced with the head on the engine.
Remove valve cover
Remove rocker assembly-- take all the cam cap bolts out and lift it off as a unit. The rocker assembly will fall apart into a lot of little pieces if you pull on the ends, so don't do that.
(The cam stays in place.)
Remove spark plugs.
Put rope in the cylinder you are working on and rotate the crank toward TDC to push the valves up.
Remove valve spring using a spring compressor. Block the oil return holes in the corners of the head so you don't drop valve keepers into the oil pan. You are going to lose some of them anyway.
R&R valve seal.
Replace spring and keepers.
Repeat on the rest of the valves.
Before starting, read the first paragraph of this post again.
Valve stem seals can be replaced with the head on the engine.
Remove valve cover
Remove rocker assembly-- take all the cam cap bolts out and lift it off as a unit. The rocker assembly will fall apart into a lot of little pieces if you pull on the ends, so don't do that.
(The cam stays in place.)
Remove spark plugs.
Put rope in the cylinder you are working on and rotate the crank toward TDC to push the valves up.
Remove valve spring using a spring compressor. Block the oil return holes in the corners of the head so you don't drop valve keepers into the oil pan. You are going to lose some of them anyway.
R&R valve seal.
Replace spring and keepers.
Repeat on the rest of the valves.
Before starting, read the first paragraph of this post again.
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Valve stem seals may be the problem, but of the valve guides are worn, new valve seals will not solve anything.
It is probably time to have your engine rebuilt. I'd look into a local machine shop and a rebuilt kit that uses only OE suppliers.
It is probably time to have your engine rebuilt. I'd look into a local machine shop and a rebuilt kit that uses only OE suppliers.
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