On my door jam it states to use 50f/80r tire pressures. I aired them up to 40-45psi and figured i would use the door's recommendation when loaded to the gills.
It rides pretty good at 40-45.
It rides pretty good at 40-45.
50/80 psi for towing only?
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I would assume that you've already confirmed that it does indeed have "LT" tires on it?
We've seen plenty of instances where people get what they think is a good idea, and put "P" rated tires on 3/4 tons, and "LT" rated tires on 1/2 tons.
We've seen plenty of instances where people get what they think is a good idea, and put "P" rated tires on 3/4 tons, and "LT" rated tires on 1/2 tons.
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
I would assume that you've already confirmed that it does indeed have "LT" tires on it?
We've seen plenty of instances where people get what they think is a good idea, and put "P" rated tires on 3/4 tons, and "LT" rated tires on 1/2 tons.
With many of the 1/2 tons having towing capabilities over 10k and 2k plus payload capacities, LT's may not be a bad idea.
I would assume that you've already confirmed that it does indeed have "LT" tires on it?
We've seen plenty of instances where people get what they think is a good idea, and put "P" rated tires on 3/4 tons, and "LT" rated tires on 1/2 tons.
With many of the 1/2 tons having towing capabilities over 10k and 2k plus payload capacities, LT's may not be a bad idea.
Originally Posted By: InhalingBullets
With many of the 1/2 tons having towing capabilities over 10k and 2k plus payload capacities, LT's may not be a bad idea.
That's not my point here. If the manufacturers want to do it, then that's a whole different ball game.
With many of the 1/2 tons having towing capabilities over 10k and 2k plus payload capacities, LT's may not be a bad idea.
That's not my point here. If the manufacturers want to do it, then that's a whole different ball game.
Look at your tires, not your door jamb. If the sidewall says max pressure 80 psi, then you probably don't want to go below 50.
Keep in mind that the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations are sometimes intentionally low where tire pressures are concerned. This figured prominently in the Ford/Firestone/Bridgestone saga several years ago.
When you underinflate tires they run hotter. If they're not underinflated by much then it's no big deal. However, you mention 40 psi, and that's getting pretty low assuming a load range E, 80 psi tire.
Keep in mind that the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations are sometimes intentionally low where tire pressures are concerned. This figured prominently in the Ford/Firestone/Bridgestone saga several years ago.
When you underinflate tires they run hotter. If they're not underinflated by much then it's no big deal. However, you mention 40 psi, and that's getting pretty low assuming a load range E, 80 psi tire.
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My dad had an 04' Silverado 2500HD crew cab with the Duramax. Although his tires were 285/75-16 (33" tires) we kept them filled to 65 psi front and 80 psi rear. It actually didn't ride too bad on the streets. He hauled a gooseneck trailer often too so the 80 psi helped.
I fill mine to the recommended pressure and leave them there. For my truck, that's 65 for the front and 75 for the rear. I don't want to have to mess around changing tire pressure every time I want to haul something. Besides, I didn't buy a heavy duty pickup for the ride quality.
I used to use a 3/4 ton as a daily driver. I always ran 51 psi on the fronts, but on the rears if I knew for sure I wouldn't be hauling anything I would run them at 35 psi. Before loading I would air the rears up to 80 psi and check the fronts.
The Ram in my sig is so front end heavy that I run 80 PSI in the FRONT, & 65 in the rear, unloaded. Less in the front causes premature shoulder wear, and it really doesn't affect the ride much (LT285/70R17E Bridgestone Dueler Revo 2s).
I do much the same as bullwinkle. My 2000 Dodge 2500 diesel is also very front heavy, so I run max sidewall pressure in the fronts. The rears I run 75% when empty, 100% when loaded.
One important thing--everyone's talking about the pressures they run, but nobody's saying what load range their tires are. A load range D tire has a max sidewall pressure of 65 psi, while a load range E tire is 80 psi. We need to keep this in mind when saying what pressure we're running.
One important thing--everyone's talking about the pressures they run, but nobody's saying what load range their tires are. A load range D tire has a max sidewall pressure of 65 psi, while a load range E tire is 80 psi. We need to keep this in mind when saying what pressure we're running.
Originally Posted By: AlaskaMike
I do much the same as bullwinkle. My 2000 Dodge 2500 diesel is also very front heavy, so I run max sidewall pressure in the fronts. The rears I run 75% when empty, 100% when loaded.
One important thing--everyone's talking about the pressures they run, but nobody's saying what load range their tires are. A load range D tire has a max sidewall pressure of 65 psi, while a load range E tire is 80 psi. We need to keep this in mind when saying what pressure we're running.
I have noticed that the front tires on my dmax looks little less aired that rear, I run 60, 80 per door.
AlaskaMike, I agree with your decision, This summer I am going to run 80, 80.
I do much the same as bullwinkle. My 2000 Dodge 2500 diesel is also very front heavy, so I run max sidewall pressure in the fronts. The rears I run 75% when empty, 100% when loaded.
One important thing--everyone's talking about the pressures they run, but nobody's saying what load range their tires are. A load range D tire has a max sidewall pressure of 65 psi, while a load range E tire is 80 psi. We need to keep this in mind when saying what pressure we're running.
I have noticed that the front tires on my dmax looks little less aired that rear, I run 60, 80 per door.
AlaskaMike, I agree with your decision, This summer I am going to run 80, 80.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
On my door jam it states to use 50f/80r tire pressures. I aired them up to 40-45psi and figured i would use the door's recommendation when loaded to the gills.
It rides pretty good at 40-45.
The mfgr is required to give you the pressures required at FULL PAYLOAD. You may not need that much in everyday driving.
FWIW in our 3500 long wheelbase vans which weigh about 9100-9400 pounds every morning we run 60 front and 80 rear, of course these are "E" tires...
On my door jam it states to use 50f/80r tire pressures. I aired them up to 40-45psi and figured i would use the door's recommendation when loaded to the gills.
It rides pretty good at 40-45.
The mfgr is required to give you the pressures required at FULL PAYLOAD. You may not need that much in everyday driving.
FWIW in our 3500 long wheelbase vans which weigh about 9100-9400 pounds every morning we run 60 front and 80 rear, of course these are "E" tires...
Originally Posted By: AlaskaMike
I do much the same as bullwinkle. My 2000 Dodge 2500 diesel is also very front heavy, so I run max sidewall pressure in the fronts. The rears I run 75% when empty, 100% when loaded.
One important thing--everyone's talking about the pressures they run, but nobody's saying what load range their tires are. A load range D tire has a max sidewall pressure of 65 psi, while a load range E tire is 80 psi. We need to keep this in mind when saying what pressure we're running.
D and E rated tires don't necessarily take 65 or 80 psi.
I do much the same as bullwinkle. My 2000 Dodge 2500 diesel is also very front heavy, so I run max sidewall pressure in the fronts. The rears I run 75% when empty, 100% when loaded.
One important thing--everyone's talking about the pressures they run, but nobody's saying what load range their tires are. A load range D tire has a max sidewall pressure of 65 psi, while a load range E tire is 80 psi. We need to keep this in mind when saying what pressure we're running.
D and E rated tires don't necessarily take 65 or 80 psi.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
On my door jam it states to use 50f/80r tire pressures. I aired them up to 40-45psi and figured i would use the door's recommendation when loaded to the gills.
It rides pretty good at 40-45.
First, you should read your owners manual and see what it says there.
Second, just pulling a number out of thin air is just a bad idea. Do some math and figure out what the vehicle manufacturer was intending when he specified the inflation pressure he did. Then figure out what MIGHT be an appropriate alternative.
I am NOT a fan of using inflation pressures different than what the vehicle manufacturer states.
First, It has been 14 years since the Ford/Firestone thing - and everyone involved learned quite a few lesson from that - and one of those was being careful not in specify low inflation pressures.
Second, ALL vehicle manufacturers test their vehicle at the inflation pressures specified on the doorframe. If you use something different than what is their, you are going into uncharted waters.
Third, one of the things that pops up regularly is that when a vehicle specifies different inflation pressures front to rear, then in order to maintain the handling characteristics, you need to maintain that relationship. That may mean that you can't quite do what you think you can.
And lastly, if you are going to do something different that what the vehicle manufacturer specifies, for heaven's sake, do some investigating. Test the handling, look at pressure buildup, calculate the load carrying capacity. Don't just do it and hope nothing will happen. That method has a way of turning people into Darwin Award winners.
On my door jam it states to use 50f/80r tire pressures. I aired them up to 40-45psi and figured i would use the door's recommendation when loaded to the gills.
It rides pretty good at 40-45.
First, you should read your owners manual and see what it says there.
Second, just pulling a number out of thin air is just a bad idea. Do some math and figure out what the vehicle manufacturer was intending when he specified the inflation pressure he did. Then figure out what MIGHT be an appropriate alternative.
I am NOT a fan of using inflation pressures different than what the vehicle manufacturer states.
First, It has been 14 years since the Ford/Firestone thing - and everyone involved learned quite a few lesson from that - and one of those was being careful not in specify low inflation pressures.
Second, ALL vehicle manufacturers test their vehicle at the inflation pressures specified on the doorframe. If you use something different than what is their, you are going into uncharted waters.
Third, one of the things that pops up regularly is that when a vehicle specifies different inflation pressures front to rear, then in order to maintain the handling characteristics, you need to maintain that relationship. That may mean that you can't quite do what you think you can.
And lastly, if you are going to do something different that what the vehicle manufacturer specifies, for heaven's sake, do some investigating. Test the handling, look at pressure buildup, calculate the load carrying capacity. Don't just do it and hope nothing will happen. That method has a way of turning people into Darwin Award winners.
When I still worked at WM TLE, IIRC I did see some newer Dodge HD pickups with dual inflation pressures. One spec for unloaded and another for loaded.
Might do some digging for what they were doing and it might give you an idea of what to do.
Might do some digging for what they were doing and it might give you an idea of what to do.
Whenever my father brought his F350 to the dealer for service, they would inflate all 4 to 80PSI. Apparently it's a liability thing in case he was towing or something.
Made an empty truck drive fun in the rain and snow.
Made an empty truck drive fun in the rain and snow.
I've never had a car that specified more than 32-35 psi or so.
I put what i thought was an appropriate pressure for the unloaded 250 mile journey home. Once, i tried to put 60 psi in my Saturn spare. I took it to the max of my gage at 50 then gave it another hit or two of air. Later on, the virgin spare had quite the bulge but was still holding air. It was some ordeal getting a spare tire mounted. Most places say they cant get them and arent allowed to mount them.
The truck,tires were about bald anyway, so i took into consideration the manu's suggestion on the door and used my best judgement. Bte, the Goodyear webpage suggests 45F&R.
I put what i thought was an appropriate pressure for the unloaded 250 mile journey home. Once, i tried to put 60 psi in my Saturn spare. I took it to the max of my gage at 50 then gave it another hit or two of air. Later on, the virgin spare had quite the bulge but was still holding air. It was some ordeal getting a spare tire mounted. Most places say they cant get them and arent allowed to mount them.
The truck,tires were about bald anyway, so i took into consideration the manu's suggestion on the door and used my best judgement. Bte, the Goodyear webpage suggests 45F&R.
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Originally Posted By: AlaskaMike
Look at your tires, not your door jamb. If the sidewall says max pressure 80 psi, then you probably don't want to go below 50.
Keep in mind that the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations are sometimes intentionally low where tire pressures are concerned. This figured prominently in the Ford/Firestone/Bridgestone saga several years ago.
When you underinflate tires they run hotter. If they're not underinflated by much then it's no big deal. However, you mention 40 psi, and that's getting pretty low assuming a load range E, 80 psi tire.
The tire I want to put on this truck is a Goodyear Wrangler A/T Adventure with Kevlar
Look at your tires, not your door jamb. If the sidewall says max pressure 80 psi, then you probably don't want to go below 50.
Keep in mind that the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations are sometimes intentionally low where tire pressures are concerned. This figured prominently in the Ford/Firestone/Bridgestone saga several years ago.
When you underinflate tires they run hotter. If they're not underinflated by much then it's no big deal. However, you mention 40 psi, and that's getting pretty low assuming a load range E, 80 psi tire.
The tire I want to put on this truck is a Goodyear Wrangler A/T Adventure with Kevlar
So we are to always trust what the manufacturer says? I think the lower psi listed by Ford for the Explorer(to get the softer ride) was a contributing factor that lead to under inflated tires. It's easier to get low when you start out at 26 psi.
Just like with motor oil, many say we are not allowed to think anymore. I see no problem with a bit thinner oil in the Winter, depending on where and how one drives. Especially parked outside with 15 below zero.
I dropped down to a '1/2 ton' with our current truck. With the previous 3/4 ton I kept pressure in mind, depending on what I was doing. Often I was 40 in the front and 60 in the rear.
I have Winter tires on now. I didn't pay the extra $88 or so for the 'TPMS' valves either. I'll just check pressure once in a while, did yesterday.
As long as the tires are the correct ones for the vehicle, the 'door jam' numbers trump the max pressure listed on the sidewall.
Just like with motor oil, many say we are not allowed to think anymore. I see no problem with a bit thinner oil in the Winter, depending on where and how one drives. Especially parked outside with 15 below zero.
I dropped down to a '1/2 ton' with our current truck. With the previous 3/4 ton I kept pressure in mind, depending on what I was doing. Often I was 40 in the front and 60 in the rear.
I have Winter tires on now. I didn't pay the extra $88 or so for the 'TPMS' valves either. I'll just check pressure once in a while, did yesterday.
As long as the tires are the correct ones for the vehicle, the 'door jam' numbers trump the max pressure listed on the sidewall.
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