Lights pulse when cold started until warm

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So trying to narrow down a new issue with my Buick. The lights seem to pulse dim and back to full brightness every few seconds when cold started but only when it's really cold outside. Seems to be fine above freezing but below 20F it will pulse every light including interior lights, headlights and dash and the voltage moves around slightly on my voltmeter but hard to say how much because it's only been this cold a few times.

Also the Blower motor noticeably loses speed during the dim pulses as if you turned the speed down.

Also sometimes if I turn the Blower on high and turn the rear defroster on my voltage plunges pretty bad or bounces too.

It seems to stop if I turn the rear defroster off. Kind of two separate issues maybe?

I have even noticed it sometimes when slowing for a turn when the engine falls to idle speed mid turn the voltage drops to the 12v range as if I'm running on battery only but as soon as I tap the gas it comes right back up into the middle or high 13v range.


The issues with pulsing pretty much disappears within 5 to 10 minutes of driving. But the voltage dips on turns are harder to re create.

My alternator is a recent replacement, it's a Tough one new unit aka Remy. I am not sure it's the alternator but am leaning towards a bad body ground? The alternator puts out plenty of voltage if you don't look at the isolated incidents. If it's really cold outside it will put out right at 15v, usually high 13s no problem when warmed up.

Battery is a autocraft gold about 2 years old tested good somewhat recently. I even fully charged the battery the other night inside on my diehard dh15a automatic charger and it still pulsed at full charge as it was about 20 degrees outside, so I don't think the battery is the culprit.

It's going to be pretty cold tonight when I leave work so hoping to see what happens when I first start it tonight and to pay closer attention to the voltage.

Any leads would be appreciated.
 
usually flickering lights are a sign the rectifier in the alternator is going bad, however my wifes car has been doing the same thing in extreme cold and I have not done a thing about it and its been 2 years.
 
Take it to get the battery and alternator tested. My mom has an 03' Buick Rendezvous with the 3.4L and it eats up batteries, don't know why but it needs a new one every year and a half, almost perfectly on the dot. Bought a new AutoZone battery and 1.5 years later had it replaced under warranty and then again 2 weeks before the warranty was up it died again, has done it for the 10 years she has had it.
 
How old is the vehicle, and how many miles does it have on it.

My first guess would be that something is going on with the belt, or the belt tensioner. You might want to check that all items on the belt turn freely.

Also, some (many) gm vehicles now use a combination drive pulley and harmonic balancer. The rubber between the inner metal and the drive pulley will wear down with age and usage and the belt drive pulley becomes out of alignment with the proper path for the belt.
 
The rear defroster on some older cars had more draw than the alternator could supply at low engine speeds.
I suspect that your use of the rear defroster might be your problem.
Maybe either live with it or avoid using it until you reach a point where you can sustain steady speeds.
 
Bad grounds are always a suspect. On many cars the alternator grounds to the block and the block has a strap to the body. Then there's the battery to body strap or cable.
Is the regulator IN the alternator, or part of the ECU? There's temp compensation built into charging systems and those parts can be affected by cold.
 
I'm going with the bad ground theory, backed up by a flaky battery with a bad cell.
 
Will swing by AAP on Sunday to have them test the battery and alternator in car and see what I get but I don't know if that's the problem.
 
I am still thinking that the problem has something to do with the belt that drives the alternator. When it is cold the rubber is not gripping the pulleys properly. The tensioner might not be providing the proper tension (too loose) and the combination of slip of the drive pulley, + slip of the alternator pulley is enough to cause the alternator to not be spinning fast enough.
 
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