Honda F6B

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Jehu

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Middle Georgia
On my 2013 F6B (1800 cc Goldwing) I'm currently running Rotella T6 5W-40. No problems, the oil is reasonably priced and the bike does not use any. Currently 19,000 total miles.

I have some Amsoil 15W-40 synthetic on hand. It's labeled "API CJ-4 Plus". The Rotella is JASO-MA rated. My question is: Is the Amsoil is suitable for the bike?

I will say I'm not sure if I would use it now. I started reading in this forum last weekend. The more I read the more I wondered if a 0W-30 (synthetic and off the shelf preferably) might not be more suitable. I live in Middle Georgia and will see high temps here and out west this summer.

Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions. I hope to keep this bike for a long time.
 
I'd use the Rotella as it's JASO-MA rated. JASO-MA means it's motorcycle clutch safe. If Amsoil makes no service claim on what you have, I wouldn't use it. I would use something proven as you'll be far from home.
 
Thanks for the reply. I was not sure what the Cj-4 Plus indicated. If it's not rated for motorcycle I will just use it one of my diesels.
 
Is the 2013 engine spec'd for 10w-30?

My 2008 GL1800 is spec'd for 10w-40.... but I know that has since changed to 10w-30, just not sure when that happened.
 
While the JASO MA rating is reassuring, many including myself used Rotella before JASO MA was on the bottle. There are many other fine oils out there used in motorcycles that do not have the JASO MA rating. Some would say the more important thing is that the oil is NOT labeled "energy conserving" with respect to wet clutches.
 
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Clutches...

To change a Goldwing clutch requires removing the engine so delaying
that task is paramount but technically speaking there is no non JASO
oil that can defeat a wet clutch in good working order... what is
confusing the issue is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will
reach a point in their life and start to slip JASO or non JASO... have
you noticed that no one complains about clutch slip when the bike is
new??? its around the 57K range as normal containments build up to
point you may find the clutch begins to loose its grip... this is
usually discovered by the owner during WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle
like during a quick overtake or at a track day... in error one can
blame the non JASO oil but its really the contaminants on the clutch
plates...

So the belief that we should stay away from Energy Conserving oil is
on shaky ground... you may take a measure of comfort to know I've been
using Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in Mr.RC45 with no clutch
slipping due to oil being certified 10% freer flowing than non EC
oil... and it's a $27,500 homologated racer with a tall first gear
good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch plates... even
though I'm 66 I'm not known for riding in moderation...

MrRC45MobilOne0w30.jpg
 
Larry:

I am in 100% agreement. Any clutch that slips with a certain oil needed to be replaced anyway.

Dave
 
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Originally Posted By: DrDave
Larry:

I am in 100% agreement. Any clutch that slips with a certain oil needed to be replaced anyway.

Dave

OR adjusted.
 
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Is the 2013 engine spec'd for 10w-30?

My 2008 GL1800 is spec'd for 10w-40.... but I know that has since changed to 10w-30, just not sure when that happened.


Yes and I'm glad you asked. A popular oil in the forums is the 5W-40 Rotella so I started using it at the first oil change @ 3,900 miles.
The "Oil Recommendation" in my manual is for a 10W-30 with an API classification of SG or higher except labeled as energy conserving.

The heat chart shows a recommended 10W-30 OR 10W-40 from 15F to 110F. (I saw 108F in the Badlands last July at Cedar Pass) Followed by a JASO T 903 standard explanation.
 
BusyLittleShop,

You have very interesting ideas and experience! Something to think about, thank you.

With 2 years 3 months more factory warranty I think I'll stick with a "API class SG or higher, with no "energy conserving" and JASTO T 903 Standard "MA". I'm now less interested in using the 15W 40 on hand and more interested in a ? W30 that meets the books specification.

I appreciate all the input so far.
 
Originally Posted By: Jehu
BusyLittleShop,

You have very interesting ideas and experience! Something to think about, thank you.


You're welcome...
 
Originally Posted By: DrDave
Larry:

I am in 100% agreement. Any clutch that slips with a certain oil needed to be replaced anyway.

Dave


Preach it bro...

Manufactures warn against it and owners are leery of it but Energy Conserving is not
additive... its an API test that this "oil MAY result is an overall saving of fuel in the
vehicle fleet as a whole"... there is nothing new in the oil to defeat a wet clutch... mercy!!!
 
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The slipperiness of the oil not made or compatible for a wet clutch, will have your clutch failing a lot sooner, than normal.

That's just fact, sure you can mod the clutch with heavier springs, and make the action harder to pull. But fact also is there's a wide variance with bike models, and clutch ability. A light clutch, will not last as long as a Heavy clutch, meaning certain clutches are more marginal with slippery oils than others.

I think BLS only expects a clutch to last 10,000 miles last time I spoke to him(he probably doesn't remember ), but if you want 100,000 mile clutches, stick to known good clutch oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: Mackelroy


I think BLS only expects a clutch to last 10,000 miles last time I spoke to him(he probably doesn't remember ), but if you want 100,000 mile clutches, stick to known good clutch oil.


Sorry Mac... you'll have to refresh my memory when the last time we spoke...

If you wish 100,000 mile clutch life then you have to invest is some
good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't
automatically mean your oil was not compatible (what ever that means)
or your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to
determine if they are serviceable within the factory specifications...
under scrutiny you'll usually find that the slip was due to normal
glazing and contaminates...

Deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... no sir... back in the 70s
it use to be part of every savvy rider's maintenance plan... and for
some reason that all change during the 90s... why fix what you can buy
new is the what you hear now a days... but if your interested in
making your clutch bite good as new then roll up your sleeves and read
on... if not get back on the couch...

Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty
of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness
in thousands of an inch or mm...

First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay
over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a
circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away
remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate
looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck
thickness...

gallery_3131_51_129667.jpg



Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...
make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness
range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled
them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface...
you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks...

gallery_3131_51_40098.jpg
 
That's a good write up and probably needed for that mobil1 car oil, as it builds a glaze. Now what oils do you think might hender that glaze build up, and make a clutch last well over a 100,000 miles without issues?

mobil1 car oil is not at the top of the list

As far as conversation its probably been 8 or 9 years ago.
 
Mackelroy said:
The slipperiness of the oil not made or compatible for a wet clutch, will have your clutch failing a lot sooner, than normal.

That seems logical. What are your thoughts on using non MA rated oil, but not energy conserving? In Wal Mart today I saw a few Mobil 1 oils in _ 30W that fit this category.
Click to expand...
 
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
That's a good write up and probably needed for that mobil1 car oil, as it builds a glaze. Now what oils do you think might hender that glaze build up, and make a clutch last well over a 100,000 miles without issues?

mobil1 car oil is not at the top of the list




Thanks Mac... but you know as well as I do JASO is NOT a 100,000 mile test of oil and
clutch... if you're lucky enough and JASO decides to test your oil of choice its only a
test the motor oil's Dynamic Friction Characteristic Index (DFI), Static Friction
Characteristic Index (SFI) and Stop Time Index(STI) and if it falls within the following
limits according to the JASO 904:2006 friction test below...

Dynamic Friction Characteristic Index (DFI) ≥1.45 and Static Friction Characteristic Index (SFI) ≥1.15 and Stop Time Index (STI) ≥1.55 and
Technically speaking any 0w30 oil even Honda's 0w30 G4 Ultra rated MA falls within those JASO numbers...

41EXKPwykUL._SY300_.jpg
 
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