Systematically choosing the "best" oil?

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Yes, teardown inspections are the way that engine manufacturers assess how their engines wear, but not many consumers are going to want to tear down an engine that's running fine to find out how it's wearing.


Exactly. Which is why if the manufacturer calls for a particular lubricant, if you aren't actually going to do the work to actually test an alternative, that you should probably go with what they recommend. This is usually as easy as just looking for the manufacturer's approval or just running what is specified in the owners manual.

To quote Doug Hillary on his discussion with the engineers from Porsche: "All oils on our approval list will perform basically identically in service."

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I guess I can only say what I do......Which is choose an oil for an application, according to requirements, oil reputation and makeup. Then I run that, pretty much until there is a reason to change my thinking.

For instance.......I used to live in CA, where it seldom got below 30F much at all. I used 5W/30 Mobil 1 in all my 4 wheeled vehicles. Then I move to New Messico, where it drops to 0F overnight many times a winter......And occasionally as low as -20F. So I now uses 0W/30 Mobil 1 AFE.

I still use 15W/50 Mobil 1 in my BMW motorcycle, since I never ride below 20F. And I use 5W/40 (Rotella or Delo, whichever is cheaper) in my other motorcycles, and most of my other equipment. I do use 0W/30 German Castrol in my snowblower......Though I am pretty sure the AFE would work fine there, as well.
Sandias or Monzanos?


Good question........We are North of Interstate 40, but as I look at the topo map, we are actually on a outcropping of the very Northern tip of the Monzanos. So......Right on the border.

 

[Vuflanovsky]

I agree that the OP is misreading the concept of UOAs as it relates to finding an "ideal" oil. A UOA is a snapshot and the variables can change with each oil change and before, during, and after. Oil specs created/ approved by the manufacturer would probably be the closest to what's being asked.

However, with newer engine technology like GDI, I might put more of a weight on using an oil with a low NOACK/TEOST/SAPS number than if it just meets manufacturers specs. I'm sure there are other similar criteria that people could come up with based on the particular engine.

 

[anndel]

I just pulled the valve cover and head on my 1993 Toyota 4x4 with 4 cyl 22re engine last october to replace the timing chain and was amazed on how clean the engine was. I have about 157,000 miles on it. Being the original owner, as soon after it reached 500 miles, I replaced the oil with Amsoil and it's been on Mobil 1 for over 15 years. Until recently, I switch between Mobil 1 HM and Pennzoil PP, what ever is on the shelf at Wal-Mart but most of it's life was on Mobil 1. OCI is 5000 miles or every 6 mos with Toyota or Denso OEM filter.

 

[BRader]

I use the Toyota OEM filter and oil from my local dealership. I will continue to use the OEM filter but I am thinking about trying a different oil for my 2001 4runner.It's OCI has always been 5000 miles. It currently has 185,000 miles on it. The oil always looks pretty good when I change it. Just wondering if there is a better oil to use.

 

[Koz1]

There are so many variables its amazing.
Something like full fuel system cleaner added every few tanks could tip the oil into destructive mode.
I wouldnt do it any more than once an oil change making sure you get the oil up to good temp at least once a week for 30 mins.
Thats just what I do to get the fuel smell out of the oil.
I have seen oil turn to thick clumps, yet the engine still lived after a good flush never had a problem with it.
Test an oil for an OCI and if it works the way you like it keep it, if it dosnt change it up.
Tons of good info on this site.