After brake job: Wheel turning well, but not freely

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hi

I had to change both rear disks and pads on a 2007 odyssey.

I lubed everything well. I took the van for a very short drive, but when I came back and jacked up the car, I noticed that a wheel was turning but not totally freely. What I mean is that the wheel turn but stops quickly if no force is applied (unlike, say, a bicyle wheel, which would go on and on, if you know what I mean). Is this normal for new brakes, ie., before the pads are totally bedded in?

I drove since but did not check the wheel again. Thanks
 
Take it for a good run through the neighborhood and slam on the brakes (when safely, no cars behind you or people around) and keep doing quick braking, 5 miles or so and check back in. They've probably just got to get moving and broken in or whatever. No biggie
 
I had the same thing happen last summer when I did the corners on my C3. There was slight resistance after installing the calipers and pads.
So I got on the loud pedal and did a few 0-100-0 runs,and maybe 30 miles of just random hard braking at 60mph and later that night when I bought the 20" rims they spun effortlessly without any drag.
So I can't say fir sure that it's normal,only that I noticed the same thing and after a day of driving intentionally doing a little hard braking the drag was gone.
As Trav. He's an expert.
 
Next time you return from a drive, check the rear brake temp with your hand by touching the wheels. Fi they both feel about the same temp, you have no problem.
 
check rear E-brake portion to ensure it dis-engage fully ?

check to ensure rear brake caliper sliding pin is sliding properly (and not binding)?

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
check rear E-brake portion to ensure it dis-engage fully ?

check to ensure rear brake caliper sliding pin is sliding properly (and not binding)?

Q.



Great point. I completely overlooked that,probably because my C3 no longer has one. Not anymore anyway.
Previous owner must have either broken it or siezed it and there wasn't a cable there for me to attach.
Nice save quest
 
Couple things:

1) Did you verify proper operation (and adjustment) of the parking brake? IIRC, this model uses shoes for the parking brake. If you did not back off the parking brake adjustment before removing the rotors, you can sometimes "tweak" the hardware enough to cause drag issues.

2) The upper and low pad retaining clips (clips that go on the caliper bracket) are usually different on Hondas. This may be difficult, but make sure that you have the right ones in the right places.
 
Originally Posted By: Icecube
hi

Is this normal for new brakes, ie., before the pads are totally bedded in?


It's normal for all the time. The pads are touching disk with the force still applied by the rubber o-ring in the caliper. I'd worry if the wheel continued to turn, that you have excessive caliper piston knock back.
 
Thank you everyone!

Some additional information.

I did lube everything including cleaning and lubricating the pins with proper lube.

I did notice the pads had to be 'pushed' into place (in the brackets) with more force than I expected and then when they were seated, they were making contact with the rotors. Prior to installing the pads, the rotors were turning freely. No dragging from the parking brakes mechanism.

The fact I had to be pushed in the two inner pads their brackets with force has me worried because on my other cars, the pads slip in and are very loose and fall off annoyingly until I put the calliper back to hold them in place! Is it normal that pads are tight in their brackets (I also lubbed the brackets)???

I get no heat or noise after my short driving periods. Everything functions normally to me.

The parking brakes suggestion is a good one. Aren't they self adjusting I.e. by backing up a few times? The new rotors went in without touching the parking brakes' mechanism and the disks were turning freely then. (It is really the pads that are "holding" them slightly).

I think they need a good bedding (? Spelling?). I'll post back!

Happy New Year!
 
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If my new pads don't slide easily into their slots of the hold down bar, I'll grind the ears or file the slots on the pads to make'em fit better(more loose but, not sloppy). I don't like to have to force the pads into their slots.
 
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The pads should be floating in the brackets. Some aftermarket pads fit too tight. I had to grind off just a little but of length on my car last time.

Depending on my car over the years I have used the OEM pads and shoes. They usually are very good brake parts.
 
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