When to do 1st oil Change on 6.7L ?

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ABChop

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Alberta, Canada
I have a 2015 6.7L F350.
Currently I have about 1200 miles on it.
Is there break-in oil in these from the factory?
Should I run it out until the truck tells me to change it (about 7000 miles).
Or change it early because it's a new engine?

Also I have been running T6 5W-40 in previous F350's I owned with great results from Blackstone.
But having been thinking of trying a 30W oil and Mobil Delvac™ Elite 222 0W-30 looks good!
Any thoughts on this?
I live in Alberta so we see -40c to 35c
I do some towing, but not alot.
Thanks in advance.
 
There have been reports of brand new engines coming out of the factory with casting sand, swarf and even cigarette ends in the oil and coolant galleys. Unless you built it yourself and are 100% confident that the internals are immaculately clean you should have dumped it as soon as you got home.
Do it ASAP.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
There have been reports of brand new engines coming out of the factory with casting sand, swarf and even cigarette ends in the oil and coolant galleys. Unless you built it yourself and are 100% confident that the internals are immaculately clean you should have dumped it as soon as you got home.
Do it ASAP.


Be careful sayin things like that you'll get roasted here. I was schooled the same way, I'd dump the oil fast in anything new I buy. I don't want that [censored] in my oil either, filter or not wasteful or not. It makes me sleep better too.-RD
 
Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: Olas
There have been reports of brand new engines coming out of the factory with casting sand, swarf and even cigarette ends in the oil and coolant galleys. Unless you built it yourself and are 100% confident that the internals are immaculately clean you should have dumped it as soon as you got home.
Do it ASAP.


Be careful sayin things like that you'll get roasted here. I was schooled the same way, I'd dump the oil fast in anything new I buy. I don't want that [censored] in my oil either, filter or not wasteful or not. It makes me sleep better too.-RD


That's the me way I was taught
smile.gif
. But I can't see anyone on here wanting to roast me, I'm advocating preventative maintenance to promote vehicle longevity..
 
At 1200 miles the best thing you can do for the engine is tow your max GCWR for a few days. Then you might have something worth draining.
 
OEM auto mfr's will say it's unnecessary to change oil before your warranty book says to, and of course environmentalists have an issue with early interval oil changes.

If I build/rebuild an engine myself I do a 50 mile / 500 mile /2000 mile oil + filter, then go to whatever interval intended for the remaining life, but that's just me and is somewhat a result of the older motors I will work on.

There was a sea change at the OEM's around 1990 or so when high precision machining became the norm. Earlier designs may have stuck to the older tolerances but any clean sheet or major revision after then it's probably overkill.

In Alberta there is one reason to change and that is to move to a 0W-xx oil for winter startups but your motor may be a little young to switch to full synthetic.

But it's entirely up to you.
 
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Just follow the OLM - any floating debris will be caught by the oil filter. Cigarette butts in new engines? That's a good one.
 
The factory fill may not be a winter oil.
If you change it now, at least you will know
that a cold snap will not leave you stranded.

Did you fish out the block heater cord yet?
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
OEM auto mfr's will say it's unnecessary to change oil before your warranty book says to, and of course environmentalists have an issue with early interval oil changes.

If I build/rebuild an engine myself I do a 50 mile / 500 mile /2000 mile oil + filter, then go to whatever interval intended for the remaining life, but that's just me and is somewhat a result of the older motors I will work on.

There was a sea change at the OEM's around 1990 or so when high precision machining became the norm. Earlier designs may have stuck to the older tolerances but any clean sheet or major revision after then it's probably overkill.

In Alberta there is one reason to change and that is to move to a 0W-xx oil for winter startups but your motor may be a little young to switch to full synthetic.

But it's entirely up to you.


+1
That way you know what's in your engine and that its right for your environment, temp. wise.

ROD
 
Yes the block heater cord was out and ready to go when I took delivery.
It spends most nights in my heated garage.
When it's parked outside overnight when I'm at the farm.....yes I do plug it in
smile.gif


I think I'll go to T6 0W-40 or try Mobil Delvac™ Elite 222 0W-30 when I do change it....just a matter of when I guess. Can't seem to find much on the 0W-30....any thoughts on it?

I read somewhere that they put a break-in additive in the factory oil and that your supposed to run it the full recommended interval before the first change. But I can't find that in the manual or Diesel Supplement. Have any of you heard anything about this or is it bull??
 
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I just took delivery of a '15 6.7 also. They come from factory with 10w-30. I currently have only 1,400 mi. and I plan to run out until IOLM tells me to change.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
At 1200 miles the best thing you can do for the engine is tow your max GCWR for a few days. Then you might have something worth draining.


I agree with this idea. The rings would set firmly and bed cleanly. The rotating assembly would get work hardened faster,reducing long term wear and if there was any metal shed it would be immediate and then over,which would shorten the high wear trend seen as an engine breaks in.


As far as elite 222 goes it's fantastic stuff however you've got an 80000 dollar ride so unless it's certified for use in your mill I'd think twice before using it.
I use it in my cat zoom boom and love it. Starts up quickly at -25/-30c without being plugged in which is a plus when we are running off of generators and leaving them running all night just to plug in the block heater just isn't feasible.
The last used oil analysis we had done had the oil in service for over 500 hours. Our warranty requires a used oil analysis done on every oil change.
We were informed that the oil was not depleted as it still had tbn. Which in itself impressed me because the machine runs all day,every day. It isn't shut off until we roll up in the winter. And during the summer it gets shut off if we anticipate there's nothing to haul for a few hours.
Wear metals were under 100ppm which has been pretty consistent.
It's great oil however the application is an important consideration too.
 
Another oil you might consider is Co-op D-MO Gold SL 0W-40. The Co-op advertises it as a group 4 synthetic with incredible cold weather properties. I believe Clevy has used it in the past and the price is very competitive. I don't know how to add hyperlinks, but a quick Google search will bring the product data sheet up.
 
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Yes it's ok to use in a 6.7L as far as it is an API CJ-4 oil....that's all it needs isn't it?

This is from their web page.
Mobil Delvac Elite 222 0W-30 is recommended by Imperial Oil for use in applications requiring:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4
API SM, SL, SJ, SH
CUMMINS CES 20081, 20076
CATERPILLAR ECF-3
MACK EO-M PLUS
 
Originally Posted By: ABChop
I have a 2015 6.7L F350.
Currently I have about 1200 miles on it.
Is there break-in oil in these from the factory?
Should I run it out until the truck tells me to change it (about 7000 miles).
Or change it early because it's a new engine?

Also I have been running T6 5W-40 in previous F350's I owned with great results from Blackstone.
But having been thinking of trying a 30W oil and Mobil Delvac™ Elite 222 0W-30 looks good!
Any thoughts on this?
I live in Alberta so we see -40c to 35c
I do some towing, but not alot.
Thanks in advance.


Stick with the recommended grade in the manual

I wouldn't be panicking about changing the oil at the moment personally

When the engine is bedding in you actually want wear to happen, especially if it's a lightly loaded engine
 
The manual recommends: 10w-30, 15w-40, 5w-40, 0w-40, 0w-30,
Depending on temps operated in.

10w-30 is what they recomend for normal usage.

However Canadian temps fall into what Ford calls "severe duty".
"For severe duty service, use SAE
5W-40 API CJ-4."

I have been running T6 5w-40 in past past 2 F350's with good reports from Blackstone.
Now that Shell makes a T6 0w-40 was thinking of trying that or if they recomend a 30w oil maybe
try Mobil Delvac™ Elite 222 0W-30 ??
 
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