Grease for calpier slide pins and contact points?
- Thread starter demarpaint
- Start date
A mechanic I know turned me onto 3M's Copper Anti-Seize Brake Lube.
can be used for brake systems, o2 sensors and plugs.
p/n: 08945
stuff isn't cheap, $18 for 9oz.
I used to use the CRC synthetic grease, but I tried the 3M stuff & got hooked.
I have 2 tubs of the permatex green, 2 tubs of the CRC synthetic, and also have Raybestos's silicone brake lube.
The rep told me that was the ultimate lubricant, but I wasn't to impressed with it. I used it on 1 car and it seemed fine. But nothing to write home about.
Bendix's ceramalube held up long term.
I've seen sylglide crack & flake off before, I know a lot of shops that use it, I always assumed it was cuz of the price.
Then again, getting a shop to even lubricate anything on a brake setup is like pulling teeth.
I have packets & packets of the mini lubes, most are generic named freebee's from people leaving them and reps and whatnot.
Someday, I'll use them, I'm just to hesitant to break away from the 3M.
can be used for brake systems, o2 sensors and plugs.
p/n: 08945
stuff isn't cheap, $18 for 9oz.
I used to use the CRC synthetic grease, but I tried the 3M stuff & got hooked.
I have 2 tubs of the permatex green, 2 tubs of the CRC synthetic, and also have Raybestos's silicone brake lube.
The rep told me that was the ultimate lubricant, but I wasn't to impressed with it. I used it on 1 car and it seemed fine. But nothing to write home about.
Bendix's ceramalube held up long term.
I've seen sylglide crack & flake off before, I know a lot of shops that use it, I always assumed it was cuz of the price.
Then again, getting a shop to even lubricate anything on a brake setup is like pulling teeth.
I have packets & packets of the mini lubes, most are generic named freebee's from people leaving them and reps and whatnot.
Someday, I'll use them, I'm just to hesitant to break away from the 3M.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
111 will not do the job. I just doesn't hold up. Copper based antiseize works great and will not wear away.
Lately, I have been using anti-seize on the face of the piston, the caliper fingers and brake pad ears and it seems to work very well. I used the regular gray graphite anti-seize from permatex, however. Sil-glyde seems to work very well for the caliper pin bolts and bushings but I dont care for it on the caliper and pads.
There are so many opinions and techniques on this topic.....
111 will not do the job. I just doesn't hold up. Copper based antiseize works great and will not wear away.
Lately, I have been using anti-seize on the face of the piston, the caliper fingers and brake pad ears and it seems to work very well. I used the regular gray graphite anti-seize from permatex, however. Sil-glyde seems to work very well for the caliper pin bolts and bushings but I dont care for it on the caliper and pads.
There are so many opinions and techniques on this topic.....
I just got a tube of the magical Toyota red rubber grease and so far, so good. The previous Sil-Glyde seemed to work well but I noticed some binding. The caliper bracket appeared to have some corrosion but I need to figure out how to clean it up.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
111 will not do the job. I just doesn't hold up. Copper based antiseize works great and will not wear away.
I have "researched" extensively, and even found some people swear by 111 for the caliper pins. I would get the 3M stuff but it is not available in Europe, only from the US, so I chose the 111 as similar.
I also have seen ppl saying that copper antiseize will cake on the caliper pins, very undesirable effect.
Can you please explain the "doesn't hold up" stuff regarding the 111?
111 will not do the job. I just doesn't hold up. Copper based antiseize works great and will not wear away.
I have "researched" extensively, and even found some people swear by 111 for the caliper pins. I would get the 3M stuff but it is not available in Europe, only from the US, so I chose the 111 as similar.
I also have seen ppl saying that copper antiseize will cake on the caliper pins, very undesirable effect.
Can you please explain the "doesn't hold up" stuff regarding the 111?
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I used it on my Taurus with 4 wheel disc. It would last a year in front but not in the back. It just goes away as it is so fluid I guess. But it would never be there after a year in the back.
The copper stuff I use doesn't cake. Maybe if you leave it on too long it will as the copper does not go away. The base lube might. It made by Loctite. I've also used a copper based anti corrosion electrical paste too with equal success.
The copper stuff I use doesn't cake. Maybe if you leave it on too long it will as the copper does not go away. The base lube might. It made by Loctite. I've also used a copper based anti corrosion electrical paste too with equal success.
Just add my $0.02. I agree with avoiding anti-seize. I used it once on my sliding pins on a car that I use for track days. Stuff melted like crazy. Had silver drip marks all over the place. Ended up gumming up the slide pins when hot, and when cooled, what was left gummed up too.
Ended up causing the outboard pads to drag on the rotors on both the front and rear, and now I have $500 worth of pads that has the outboards worn to 2mm and the inner's have 3-4 times that amount of material left.
Switched to silicone and ceramic brake lubes and I'm back to even wear. Your pads and rotors might be cheaper than mine, but I now know I'll never use that stuff for anything that doesn't have threads!
Ended up causing the outboard pads to drag on the rotors on both the front and rear, and now I have $500 worth of pads that has the outboards worn to 2mm and the inner's have 3-4 times that amount of material left.
Switched to silicone and ceramic brake lubes and I'm back to even wear. Your pads and rotors might be cheaper than mine, but I now know I'll never use that stuff for anything that doesn't have threads!
I had been using Sil-Glyde on the caliper slide pins on a couple of Ford Escorts based on a multitude of internet recommendations.
Escorts have one pin completely encased with a rubber boot and another in a a bare metal bore with rubber dustcaps.
I had routinely been having problems with the pins seizing up and making the brakes drag. The last time I cleaned everything up, installed new rubber boots/caps and checked a WEEK later, and the pins were sluggish and practically dry. Seems like the rubber was absorbing the Sil-Glyde (which isn't even really Silicone, after all). Maybe it was just how it reacted with the rubber used to make the replacements boots, but I am done with Sil-Glyde.
I've switched to 3M silicone paste, we will see how it does.
Escorts have one pin completely encased with a rubber boot and another in a a bare metal bore with rubber dustcaps.
I had routinely been having problems with the pins seizing up and making the brakes drag. The last time I cleaned everything up, installed new rubber boots/caps and checked a WEEK later, and the pins were sluggish and practically dry. Seems like the rubber was absorbing the Sil-Glyde (which isn't even really Silicone, after all). Maybe it was just how it reacted with the rubber used to make the replacements boots, but I am done with Sil-Glyde.
I've switched to 3M silicone paste, we will see how it does.
^ Reopening a year(s) old, but relevent thread.............
Bdiddy,
A big problem I discovered with the Escort one piece lower rubber boot is that moisture/salt would work its way between the OUTSIDE of the boot and caliper housing. The rust expands and consequently squeezes the boot, causing it to bind against the pin.
I cleaned out the hole (sandpaper is not enough) that the lower boot fits in, greased it with rubber safe/100% waterproof grease and the lower pin binding problem went away.
I never had problems using Silglyde INSIDE the boot/pin assembly.
For others, here's a pic of the long caliper boot that gets squeezed from its outside by rust on the caliper housing.
Take care.
Bdiddy,
A big problem I discovered with the Escort one piece lower rubber boot is that moisture/salt would work its way between the OUTSIDE of the boot and caliper housing. The rust expands and consequently squeezes the boot, causing it to bind against the pin.
I cleaned out the hole (sandpaper is not enough) that the lower boot fits in, greased it with rubber safe/100% waterproof grease and the lower pin binding problem went away.
I never had problems using Silglyde INSIDE the boot/pin assembly.
For others, here's a pic of the long caliper boot that gets squeezed from its outside by rust on the caliper housing.
Take care.
Similar pin boots on my Yamaha XS850G and I too have noticed that it almost doesn't matter what I use it'll will start to bind in short order.
A couple years back I cleaned everything up real well and used some Finish Line extreme fluoro grease (its a version of krytox) on the inside with either sylglide or motorcraft silicone grease (forget which) and they have remained stiction-free ever since.
A couple years back I cleaned everything up real well and used some Finish Line extreme fluoro grease (its a version of krytox) on the inside with either sylglide or motorcraft silicone grease (forget which) and they have remained stiction-free ever since.
Originally Posted By: nthach
I just got a tube of the magical Toyota red rubber grease and so far, so good. The previous Sil-Glyde seemed to work well but I noticed some binding. The caliper bracket appeared to have some corrosion but I need to figure out how to clean it up.
I also started using the pink Toyota "lithium soap glycol base" grease because the factory manuals insist on doing that.
Previous to that I used silicon die electric grease and actually liked it better because it was much thicker.
However, I noticed that factory slider grease is yellowish and clearly different:
And then there is this from Russian Toyota:
Very confusing!
I just got a tube of the magical Toyota red rubber grease and so far, so good. The previous Sil-Glyde seemed to work well but I noticed some binding. The caliper bracket appeared to have some corrosion but I need to figure out how to clean it up.
I also started using the pink Toyota "lithium soap glycol base" grease because the factory manuals insist on doing that.
Previous to that I used silicon die electric grease and actually liked it better because it was much thicker.
However, I noticed that factory slider grease is yellowish and clearly different:
And then there is this from Russian Toyota:
Very confusing!
I forgot to quote the post I was responding to so I'm just throwing this in here:
"A big problem I discovered with the Escort one piece lower rubber boot is that moisture/salt would work its way between the OUTSIDE of the boot and caliper housing. The rust expands and consequently squeezes the boot, causing it to bind against the pin."
I hear ya on that one, but I was careful to address that situation myself. I cleaned up the rust in the bore quite thoroughly with pipe brushes and put a coating of Sil-glyde on the outside of the boot.
It may have just been the replacement Raybestos boots I used, but when I checked a WEEK later the pins were practically dry and not moving much at all. That combined with some other stories people have had with only SOME of their vehicles not reacting well with Sil-glyde, as well as the fact that Sil-glyde apparently doesn't contain much silicone (practically false advertizing!) has me moving on to other solutions.
"A big problem I discovered with the Escort one piece lower rubber boot is that moisture/salt would work its way between the OUTSIDE of the boot and caliper housing. The rust expands and consequently squeezes the boot, causing it to bind against the pin."
I hear ya on that one, but I was careful to address that situation myself. I cleaned up the rust in the bore quite thoroughly with pipe brushes and put a coating of Sil-glyde on the outside of the boot.
It may have just been the replacement Raybestos boots I used, but when I checked a WEEK later the pins were practically dry and not moving much at all. That combined with some other stories people have had with only SOME of their vehicles not reacting well with Sil-glyde, as well as the fact that Sil-glyde apparently doesn't contain much silicone (practically false advertizing!) has me moving on to other solutions.
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Wrong. Try Apollo.
Originally Posted By: amusing
Krytox lube by DuPont was developed for NASA's Space Shuttle program and I have a tube that is low cost and does the trick here in So. Cal. on slider pins... Product claims to have resistance to chemical and temperature extremes...
Originally Posted By: amusing
Krytox lube by DuPont was developed for NASA's Space Shuttle program and I have a tube that is low cost and does the trick here in So. Cal. on slider pins... Product claims to have resistance to chemical and temperature extremes...
Where did you locate a low-cost tube of Krytox?
I wondered that too. Now there are fluorosilicone-based greases out there such as Molykote 3452 that are a little cheaper and have similar properties, but even those are still expensive (and not the same as Krytox).
Originally Posted By: buck91
Where did you locate a low-cost tube of Krytox?
Originally Posted By: buck91
Where did you locate a low-cost tube of Krytox?
Is a translucent clear (diluted milk in color) pure silicone grease OK for pins and pad contact points?
It's a Mobil product and I'm trying to find the name. Kira
It's a Mobil product and I'm trying to find the name. Kira
We're having a lot of bother with seized brake caliper slide pins on Hyundais and to lesser extend Mitsubishis.These are the two brands our dealership sells new. Note that the problems are national, and not local. I don't know why, but it never used to be a problem on the other brands I worked for before.
I've tried every type of grease we have, and the one I'm most comfortable with is a mix of copper paste and hi-temp silicone grease. The importer of either Hyundai or Mitsubishi (forgot which, but the hyundai importer used to import mitsu aswell so it's confusing at times) advises to use copper grease, but I was always told not to use this on slider pins. Hence I'm mixing with the silicone grease I was trying lately. Haven't had any more seizing as of now, but did find seized caliper pins from previous attempts (Wynn's ceramic paste or Castrol lithium complex grease, or mixes)
I avoid using grease on the rest of the calipers, as brake dust gets trapped and actually assistsin seizing pads in the carriers. Only if the brakes are noisy, I'll add grease. That's only certain models though.
The silicone grease is Novatio Silgrease (up to 200°C), the copper paste is Marly Copper compound (up to 1100°C, down to -30°C)
I've tried every type of grease we have, and the one I'm most comfortable with is a mix of copper paste and hi-temp silicone grease. The importer of either Hyundai or Mitsubishi (forgot which, but the hyundai importer used to import mitsu aswell so it's confusing at times) advises to use copper grease, but I was always told not to use this on slider pins. Hence I'm mixing with the silicone grease I was trying lately. Haven't had any more seizing as of now, but did find seized caliper pins from previous attempts (Wynn's ceramic paste or Castrol lithium complex grease, or mixes)
I avoid using grease on the rest of the calipers, as brake dust gets trapped and actually assistsin seizing pads in the carriers. Only if the brakes are noisy, I'll add grease. That's only certain models though.
The silicone grease is Novatio Silgrease (up to 200°C), the copper paste is Marly Copper compound (up to 1100°C, down to -30°C)
I mix the copper and silicone on my Hyundai Accent. The bottom pin on the caliper is what froze up on my car after 100k miles. And it is a different type pin than the top with orings to trap the grease suppose. Ford rear disc calipers are horrible for rusting up. Need take them apart at least once a year to insure no problems.
Brembos on the Gen Coupe, I don't use any grease but they are quite a bid different than conventional calipers.
Brembos on the Gen Coupe, I don't use any grease but they are quite a bid different than conventional calipers.
I have brembos on my own car, I use copper grease on the pins holding the pads. those pins are notorious for sticking if mounted dry.
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