What do you look for
- Thread starter Indy
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Correct grade, oil with OEM approval etc and checked against the OEM guide for conditions of use.
Are you a scientist that can decipher the chemical balances in add packs ?
Are you a scientist that can decipher the chemical balances in add packs ?
Originally Posted By: Indy
What do you look for in motor oil add packs and noack.My way of preference is low noack numbers in a few major brands and the other is a good percentage of moly and boron.
Why do you feel you need a lot of moly and boron?
What do you look for in motor oil add packs and noack.My way of preference is low noack numbers in a few major brands and the other is a good percentage of moly and boron.
Why do you feel you need a lot of moly and boron?
Pennzoil HM and Quaker State Defy.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated highmileage2014.html
http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated highmileage2014.html
Hi virgineoil ..no by far from being a scientist lol,i do agree about OEM approval by all means in respect..but i like a little more coating on the piston bores and where the top end of the motor gets more heat for extra protection on other moving parts with a tad more moly and a good dose of boron to keep the motor a little cooler and keep the wear down.
j '
Originally Posted By: Indy
Hi virgineoil ..no by far from being a scientist lol,i do agree about OEM approval by all means in respect..but i like a little more coating on the piston bores and where the top end of the motor gets more heat for extra protection on other moving parts with a tad more moly and a good dose of boron to keep the motor a little cooler and keep the wear down.
Indy not sure what happened with above J post my PC froze and I have just got my edit function back. Look for an OEM approved /grade oil and use the Virgin Oil Analysis or PQIAMERICA to find the oil with the highest Moly and Boron in approved oil brand.
Hi virgineoil ..no by far from being a scientist lol,i do agree about OEM approval by all means in respect..but i like a little more coating on the piston bores and where the top end of the motor gets more heat for extra protection on other moving parts with a tad more moly and a good dose of boron to keep the motor a little cooler and keep the wear down.
Indy not sure what happened with above J post my PC froze and I have just got my edit function back. Look for an OEM approved /grade oil and use the Virgin Oil Analysis or PQIAMERICA to find the oil with the highest Moly and Boron in approved oil brand.
Hey not a problem,things like that happens.Thanks for reminding me about PQIAMERICA,i will look it up and book mark it for future reference..i formated my computer while back and forgot to book mark the site.I do from time to time go into the virgin oil analysis too.I have to take a peek more often and lots of good info in there.Thanks again virginoil
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
I look for the right price. anything beyond that is OCD.
Agree.
When Honda introduced Acura NSX in 1991 it had highest HP for a normally aspirated 3L 6-cylinder engine, the recommended oil was any dino 5W30 with current API at that time(SF or SG ?).
In 2000 when they introduced S2000 it had highest HP for a 2L 4-cylinder engine,and the oil was dino 10W30 with current API at that time (SH or SL ?).
Good/clean engine doesn't matter which oil brand you use, it will run for many 100k miles.
I look for the right price. anything beyond that is OCD.
Agree.
When Honda introduced Acura NSX in 1991 it had highest HP for a normally aspirated 3L 6-cylinder engine, the recommended oil was any dino 5W30 with current API at that time(SF or SG ?).
In 2000 when they introduced S2000 it had highest HP for a 2L 4-cylinder engine,and the oil was dino 10W30 with current API at that time (SH or SL ?).
Good/clean engine doesn't matter which oil brand you use, it will run for many 100k miles.
Originally Posted By: Indy
What do you look for in motor oil add packs and noack.My way of preference is low noack numbers in a few major brands and the other is a good percentage of moly and boron.
Here's what I look for...and then avoid...
Flying Unicorn Pixie Cows
What do you look for in motor oil add packs and noack.My way of preference is low noack numbers in a few major brands and the other is a good percentage of moly and boron.
Here's what I look for...and then avoid...
Flying Unicorn Pixie Cows
wemay
Site Donor 2023
LOL... just flying unicorns for me.
1. Viscosity
2. certifications and approvals
3. price, test results (Noack, etc.)
I like Valvoline as much as I like Mobil as much as I like MAG1, Quaker State etc., All different add packs.
1. Viscosity
2. certifications and approvals
3. price, test results (Noack, etc.)
I like Valvoline as much as I like Mobil as much as I like MAG1, Quaker State etc., All different add packs.
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
Although specific product add packs are pretty consistent, oil companies can and sometimes do reformulate within an API certification period (SN). This could result in you buying the same oil today as you did in 2012 but the Noack being different.
Certifications and approvals are right on the bottle and you don't need to be an OCD bitoger to know your car uses '5w20 SM.' Who but us looks for, much less knows what Noack is.
Certifications and approvals are right on the bottle and you don't need to be an OCD bitoger to know your car uses '5w20 SM.' Who but us looks for, much less knows what Noack is.
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Name brand (only reputable ones)
Viscosity (according to OM)
Meets or exceeds my cars specs
Price (Any reputable brand on sale)
Definitely a sucker for marketing terms like Tri-shield, Wearguard or whatever add packs they make sound cool.
Viscosity (according to OM)
Meets or exceeds my cars specs
Price (Any reputable brand on sale)
Definitely a sucker for marketing terms like Tri-shield, Wearguard or whatever add packs they make sound cool.
On my VW I mail ordered the oil from a niche vendor who basically stocks only stuff he would put into his tdi. My two Toyotas are getting tgmo for now, as long timing chains scare me. Maybe towards the end of their lives I will switch.
When I replace my Jetta I will like do more price shopping and less hand wringing.
When I replace my Jetta I will like do more price shopping and less hand wringing.
Originally Posted By: Indy
What do you look for in motor oil add packs and noack.My way of preference is low noack numbers in a few major brands and the other is a good percentage of moly and boron.
At any given price tier, why wouldn't you go for the oil with the stronger add pack and lower NOACK?
Living in the north, you should also consider relative MRV and CCV numbers.
You might also look at VI.
There are differences in oils at the same price tiers.
How much they really matter when oils meeting the same standards are compared is debatable, but you may as well get as much value for the money you'll spend on oil as you can.
What do you look for in motor oil add packs and noack.My way of preference is low noack numbers in a few major brands and the other is a good percentage of moly and boron.
At any given price tier, why wouldn't you go for the oil with the stronger add pack and lower NOACK?
Living in the north, you should also consider relative MRV and CCV numbers.
You might also look at VI.
There are differences in oils at the same price tiers.
How much they really matter when oils meeting the same standards are compared is debatable, but you may as well get as much value for the money you'll spend on oil as you can.
1. Availability locally.
2. Good value for the car (cars that don't leak or use too much get full synthetic, old leaky cars get conventional).
3. Good low temperature viscosity.
4. Lower NOACK.
2. Good value for the car (cars that don't leak or use too much get full synthetic, old leaky cars get conventional).
3. Good low temperature viscosity.
4. Lower NOACK.
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