Hydralic clutch bleeding

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: il_signore97
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I have a 2010 6sp manual Genesis Coupe. The clutch is very hard to get all the air out of the slave cylinder. What's the best way to bleed the clutch?

The bleeder screw is between the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is on a dead end piece of tubing. If there is air in the slave cylinder how do you get it out?

Especially if you have the car jacked up with the front higher. I'm thinking it needs to be higher in the back so the air bubbles will travel from the slave cylinder to the bleeder screw.

Does the level of the car come into play?

Here's a pic of the slave cylinder.


Sounds like a really dumb design. Have you tried getting your hands on a copy of the factory service manual for your car? They must have a "proper" procedure written out in there for the techs to use. Perhaps someone on one of the forums can look it up for you and send you the relevant pages if you don't have one.


I posted the manual procedure in a couple post up but the picture has disappeared. I really think my problem is the car is not level when I am doing this.

 

[neo3]

Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
i don't know anything about genesis car's i assume made by hyundai? but i can tell you about GM and the 1998-2002 camaro/firebirds having a similar type clutch slave cylinder.

...
which is why "gravity bleeding" is ridiculous.


I gravity bleed mine (2000 Camaro), works fine.

 

[SHOZ]

Gravity bleeding on the Hyundai Genesis Coupe won't work as there is only one pipe in and out with the bleeder about 6" away from the slave.

 

[1 FMF]

you guys are missing the point, and seem to have different definition of what bleeding is.

if there is no air in the system then letting clean fluid flow through from the clutch master to the slave and out the slave bleeder is no big deal. and a remote bleed line has it's usefulness because you can easily flush clean fluid through and not make a mess at least on the LS1.

the problem is when air is in the slave or in the clutch line.
the location of the bleeder port on the slave in relation to gravity is what's important, if that bleeder port is not the highest point in the slave cylinder then you will have an air pocket that stays put. this is especially true if the nose of the car is higher where the air bubble in the slave will then sit at the clutch side and you will never get it out. if the slave is installed in the tranny... which is installed in the car... then you should have the nose lower and the rear higher to ensure any air in the slave migrates towards the bleeder/tranny side of the slave and then whether the car needs to be rotated left to right is another thing to consider.

take a clear pvc hose that you would use to push on to a brake caliper bleed screw, which you would run to a catch container. fill that line with brake fluid then clamp each end so it doesn't leak then rotate and watch the air bubble go from one end of the line to the other through the brake fluid. this is what happens when you gravity "bleed". the term gravity bleed is an oxymoron. at best it could be called gravity flush, you can't gravity bleed air. and to bleed a system to me anyway means remove air.

and i have the gm/helm service manual for my 2002 camaro, it does not detail clutch bleeding that i remember. not even push clutch open bleeder close bleeder, repeat. it only talks about replacement procedure then says to bleed clutch system.
i wouldn't call it a dumb design, it works well and under normal operating conditions the clutch system works for a long time needing no service. the problem lies in ease of serviceability.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
and i have the gm/helm service manual for my 2002 camaro, it does not detail clutch bleeding that i remember. not even push clutch open bleeder close bleeder, repeat. it only talks about replacement procedure then says to bleed clutch system.


I have noticed that the Helms manuals for our cars sometimes show the VERY obvious procedures in GREAT detail, but other, MUCH more complicated and intricate systems/assemblies (like the rear parking brake assembly, and upper steering column assemblies/explosions) are seriously lacking in showing just HOW all of the numerous small parts go back together.

BTW; If I am going to crack open the Tick Performance remote speed bleeder on mine, it gets a FULL, COMPLETE flushing of the whole system with fresh fluid, NEVER just a "bleed".

 

[neo3]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver

BTW; If I am going to crack open the Tick Performance remote speed bleeder on mine, it gets a FULL, COMPLETE flushing of the whole system with fresh fluid, NEVER just a "bleed".

The distance from the clutch master to the slave is very short. When I bleed mine, I drain enough (and keep refilling the master) that fresh fluid will have gone through the whole thing more than once. So how is this different from a "flush"?

 

[il_signore97]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ

I posted the manual procedure in a couple post up but the picture has disappeared. I really think my problem is the car is not level when I am doing this.


Sorry, I guess I came into this thread after the procedure disappeared lol

I'm sure you're on the right track with respect to levelling, or purposely raising one specific part of the car. In any case, let us know how it works out.

The slave cylinder on my Benz is actually quite similar to the picture that was posted of the Camaro, where the slave is internal to the transmission bellhousing and acts directly on the clutch / throwout bearing. But the one important difference is that mine has an easily accessible bleeder screw that is right on the upper part of the slave cylinder, thus helping to get all the air out without issue. You get to the nipple from a rubber access "door" in the transmission bellhousing.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: neo3
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

BTW; If I am going to crack open the Tick Performance remote speed bleeder on mine, it gets a FULL, COMPLETE flushing of the whole system with fresh fluid, NEVER just a "bleed".

The distance from the clutch master to the slave is very short. When I bleed mine, I drain enough (and keep refilling the master) that fresh fluid will have gone through the whole thing more than once. So how is this different from a "flush"?


It's not.

I was just stating that if I am going to bother to do it at all, I am going to run A LOT (at least 16 ounces) of fluid through it EVERY TIME, not just a few ounces, to make SURE that all of the; moisture, air, and any seal crud is completely flushed out of the system.

 

[asand1]

The purpose if bleeding is to remove air and restore the pedal. The reason for flushing is to "flush" all the old fluid out. Flushing is more thorough, where bleeding is just to make it work right after replacing a component.

 

[SHOZ]

I finally got around to bleeding it. Had my son over to help me.

I got the car up on jack stands so the pass rear was higher than the drivers rear and the front was lower. As soon as I cracked the bleeder the bubbles came out.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I know it's all done but what about a pressure bleeder like the Motive?

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: Sequoiasoon
I know it's all done but what about a pressure bleeder like the Motive?


It would not work as the slave cylinder with the air bubbles in at the dead end of the circuit. Pressure bleeding would only force the bubbles to stay in the slave piping inside the bell housing. Gravity bleeding does the same thing.

Vacuum would work but you still have to pump up the pedal and then if the vacuum was just left on it would be the same as gravity bleeding and just drain the master cylinder.

Gravity bleeding may work with the car at the level I had it, trans end lowest.