Easy DIY Rusproofing

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If you spray anything, cover your car and any nearby ones.
Mist in the air will make the windows and paint have a jillion little zits. They may be rather permanent, too.
 
^ Of course there are suitable long lasting alternatives and thanks for posting them hopefully this will help other folks.


Mechtech2 I agree that the wax will melt, especially when idling in warm weather. The high-temp variety is good up to 145F though. Melting aside, rust on the underbody by the cat and muffler usually isn't a problem. It's the awful cancerous spread by the wheel wells and rocker panels.

I have to say this stuff does a good job of halting it in its tracks.

Thanks for all the comments
 
I did a similar procedure with a spray bottle filled with this:

Griots

Not expensive IMO, and you dont have to worry about gathering the ingredients. Nonetheless, gomes has a superb idea.
 
Originally Posted By: Slippery_Pete
Will this stop existing rust from doing anymore damage?

Is there anything I should do to existing rust before spraying this on?


I'd wirebrush off the flakes, at least.

Rust is a slow-motion fire, if you keep oxygen from getting at it you'll slow it down. This technique looks like one to use on a beater to get a little more life.

I see you have a regal; I just got a w-body century and the rust underneath is depressing. Get the fuel filler neck, all the fuel and brake lines, rocker panels, and general floor pan.
 
Mine is not bad yet for rust. The rocker panels are perfect, and the subframe and everything is good. The worst spots are the rear bumper support and rear quarter panels.
 
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Thanks for the info. I got a gallon of fluid film to try this year but had been kicking around the idea of homemade brew.
 
I see a lot of people posting what they will do... not a lot of people posting with results of how their system works after ten years. How can we know the efficacy of these different methods?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I don't see how the oil and wax get along together.
They don't mix, and are very different in how they coat and protect from rust. When they are on the surface, the oil will prevent the wax from sticking.


Wax oil mixtures are common in rustproofing. They must get along okay.
 
I am looking to do this to my cars for the winter right now and was wondering how those who posted in this thread have made out?


I picked up some
itasca bar and chain oil,
some mineral spirits,
a 15lb block of wax from the local craft store (70+% off black friday sale 8 bucks, WAY more wax than I need for this)
a gallon of "metal etch" phosphate
a schutz undercoating gun.
a cheap brass large orifice sprayer nozzle from an industrial supply

I was thinking of instead making a much thicker slurry to blast through the undercoat gun on the chassis, or maybe paint/roller it on? My thoughts were to apply it HOT so everything remains viscous enough to work at higher concentrations.

I wanted to add both my thoughts and information found researching this to the thread and potentially help people in the future. I hope I am not stepping on any toes by putting links:

bar oil undercoating
http://www.type2.com/library/body/baroil.htm

good thread discussing bar oil undercoating:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=350800

home "waxoyl" recipe, similar idea
http://home.metroweb.co.za/~pdoug/tips_and_recipes.htm
 
Okay, I tried the OP technique about a month ago to part of my frame just for kicks. I power-washed the frame and undercarriage of my truck yesterday in order to apply half gallon of fluid film that I had left over.
I pounded away at the frame with power washer/soap. Went back home and noticed i didn't make much of a dent on that waxy layer. That stuff really sticks. I heated it up in mineral spirits to melt it quickly and I did use quite a bit of wax in the mix.
I'm gonna do this from now on but will probably exchange the car oil for bar chain oil.
 
I've been toying with home brew oil spray formulas this year. My current blend is as follows:

1pt. Automatic trans fluid (penetrating agent)
1 "brick" paraffin (Approx. 1X2X4 inches)
1/2 cup roofing tar (to bind the oil)
1 1/2 qt. used 10W30 or whatever is around

I use an old rice cooker to heat it all up to about 230F and mix it well. A shutz gun applies the hot oil like water, and also fogs it nicely.

The mixture gels as it cools and drips little. However I have received a complaint that it smells foul, so I'm looking into either making a "clean" batch for doors and inner quarter panels, or something like essential oils to make the existing stuff smell pretty.

Suggestions are welcome.
smile.gif
 
Old thread i know but it is getting to that time of the year again where the salt will be upon us north eastern folk. Today i sprayed the whole underside of my 98 ford ranger with some homemade waxoil. I do not know in what quantities i added the components to make this waxoil but i used a brick of paraffin wax from the grocery store, at least 2 quarts of sae 30 nd oil and diesel. I heated the items all together in a pot until they formed one solution. This waxoil idea started when I bought a couple cans of fluid film from autozone to spray underneath and i realized it was not worth the effort or money because of how little area i was covering per can. I was using almost a whole $10 can on just a small section of the body (yes i know they sell larger quatities of fluid film for oil spray guns). I decided it was time to whip up some waxoil and grab my devilbiss oil spray gun. Here is a picture of the spray gun setup and the wax oil solution in the pot.
2w3839l.jpg

112e5hy.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: mag44
I've been toying with home brew oil spray formulas this year. My current blend is as follows:

1pt. Automatic trans fluid (penetrating agent)
1 "brick" paraffin (Approx. 1X2X4 inches)
1/2 cup roofing tar (to bind the oil)
1 1/2 qt. used 10W30 or whatever is around

I use an old rice cooker to heat it all up to about 230F and mix it well. A shutz gun applies the hot oil like water, and also fogs it nicely.

The mixture gels as it cools and drips little. However I have received a complaint that it smells foul, so I'm looking into either making a "clean" batch for doors and inner quarter panels, or something like essential oils to make the existing stuff smell pretty.

Suggestions are welcome.
smile.gif



Used oil can be nasty stuff. Carcinogens. Teratogens. Dioxins.Dermatitis.

Appreciate that its thrifty but I favour unused oil for this kind of thing. A little goes a long way.

The other potential issues with your recipe are ease of application and penetration, since it sounds pretty thick. Not everyone has a schutz gun handy (or a rice cooker they want to permanently contaminate), but most people can probably get hold of some kind of spray bottle, as per the OP's method.

One issue I've found, even with my thinner recipe, is that it can render sills waterproof, so they can actually fill up, and I have to keep poking the drain holes free.

They don't seem to rust much but I'm slightly concerned that in the rainy season they could breed mosquitoes.
 
joegreen, did you know fluid film is available in bulk gallons and actually sprays on "thicker" than the aerosols?
 
Originally Posted By: VNTS
I would have properly prepped the car, used a Rust Converter like Eastwoods, then primed with Rust Encapsulator and top coated everything with Chasis Black.

then shoot with their heavy duti rust coating. Fianlly they have
A new product to shoot in the frames called Internal Frame coating. has zinc misture in a phenolic resin.

Internal stuff like doors, hatches etc you cant beat fluid film.


That would have been nice, but it would have taken you a lot of time and money, with no real assurance that it would have been more effective.

Even if it would have been more effective, the best here is the enemy of the better.

If hung up on doing a "proper job", many people will procrastinate until its too late. First aid applied is better than major surgery deferred.
 
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