Which 0w20 for '14 Accord V6?

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Hey all,

This will be the second oil change for our '14 Accord. The car currently has bulk 0w20 in it from the dealer and oem Honda filter. I can get Mobil1 AFE for the same price as Amsoil XL, of the two which is a better performing oil? I can get both Amsoil and Mobil1 locally.

Whichever oil I end up with I'll be taking to the dealer and having the oil change completed there for warranty reassurance and my piece of mind. Also the car will still have an oem filter used on the oil changes.

Please help me figure it out,
Thanks!
 
Such a shame to limit yourself to a 20wt in San Diego weather. A 5w-30 would work great in your climate. Don't always believe the one viscosity fits all climates stuff everyone likes to push.

Same with the filter. Why not use the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters? Why not a Pure One? Maybe a semi syn media Mobil One or K&N? OEM filters are average at best and they're definitely not required for warranty. It would be funny to hear their "excuses" if they wouldn't use a slightly heavier oil or non OEM filter.

Back to the 20wt since I assume its for warranty reasons, I would stay away from the AFE with its ultra low HTHS. Don't trade fuel economy for wear. I would go with Redline since it's on the heavier end of the 20wt spectrum. Ester base oil, moly, lots of ZDDP (no, it will not hurt the cats unless the car burns a considerable amount of oil. My Honda with 130,000 miles with high ZDDP from the first oil change and zero hydrocarbons on its last smog check will attest to that), high HTHSv, low NOACK for a 0w, did I mention the ester base oil that will leave the ring lands considerably cleaner at high mileage lol. You've got everything in one oil.

The car will do fine on any 20wt or 30wt oil. Mine has a 0w-40 in it right now so I can use the same oil for both my '14 328i and my Acura and stock up on it when I find a deal. Not a bit of difference in any aspect. I would shop by price unless you're like me and you like to see how many miles you can get out of a car in which case I recommend redline.
 
Originally Posted By: Wills05
Hey all,

This will be the second oil change for our '14 Accord. The car currently has bulk 0w20 in it from the dealer and oem Honda filter. I can get Mobil1 AFE for the same price as Amsoil XL, of the two which is a better performing oil? I can get both Amsoil and Mobil1 locally.

Whichever oil I end up with I'll be taking to the dealer and having the oil change completed there for warranty reassurance and my piece of mind. Also the car will still have an oem filter used on the oil changes.

Please help me figure it out,
Thanks!

Either M1 or Amsoil is good for full OCI with MM went down to 5%. Actually any synthetic 0W20 is more than adequate for Honda engine with full Mileage Minder, if you can get any synthetic 0W20 on sale/clearance at Autozone for $1/qt will be excellent. If not then Castrol Syntec 0W20 for $21.xx at Walmart is good too.

You don't need to have oil change at dealer for warranty, as long as you keep receipt(s) of oil and filter you buy, also keep a log of date and mileage when you change your oil.

I feel better knowing exactly what oil I pour into my engine(s). You take your oil to dealer but you can't be sure if they actually pouring your oil or bulk oil into your engine. If they let you into the working area to watch then you can sleep well knowing they use your oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
Such a shame to limit yourself to a 20wt in San Diego weather. A 5w-30 would work great in your climate. Don't always believe the one viscosity fits all climates stuff everyone likes to push.

Same with the filter. Why not use the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters? Why not a Pure One? Maybe a semi syn media Mobil One or K&N? OEM filters are average at best and they're definitely not required for warranty. It would be funny to hear their "excuses" if they wouldn't use a slightly heavier oil or non OEM filter.

Back to the 20wt since I assume its for warranty reasons, I would stay away from the AFE with its ultra low HTHS. Don't trade fuel economy for wear. I would go with Redline since it's on the heavier end of the 20wt spectrum. Ester base oil, moly, lots of ZDDP (no, it will not hurt the cats unless the car burns a considerable amount of oil. My Honda with 130,000 miles with high ZDDP from the first oil change and zero hydrocarbons on its last smog check will attest to that), high HTHSv, low NOACK for a 0w, did I mention the ester base oil that will leave the ring lands considerably cleaner at high mileage lol. You've got everything in one oil.

The car will do fine on any 20wt or 30wt oil. Mine has a 0w-40 in it right now so I can use the same oil for both my '14 328i and my Acura and stock up on it when I find a deal. Not a bit of difference in any aspect. I would shop by price unless you're like me and you like to see how many miles you can get out of a car in which case I recommend redline.

You remind me of a guy named BuickGN here and Ihatecars on Acurazine who is from CA and loves Red Line oil.
 
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
Such a shame to limit yourself to a 20wt in San Diego weather. A 5w-30 would work great in your climate. Don't always believe the one viscosity fits all climates stuff everyone likes to push.

Same with the filter. Why not use the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters? Why not a Pure One? Maybe a semi syn media Mobil One or K&N? OEM filters are average at best and they're definitely not required for warranty. It would be funny to hear their "excuses" if they wouldn't use a slightly heavier oil or non OEM filter.

Back to the 20wt since I assume its for warranty reasons, I would stay away from the AFE with its ultra low HTHS. Don't trade fuel economy for wear. I would go with Redline since it's on the heavier end of the 20wt spectrum. Ester base oil, moly, lots of ZDDP (no, it will not hurt the cats unless the car burns a considerable amount of oil. My Honda with 130,000 miles with high ZDDP from the first oil change and zero hydrocarbons on its last smog check will attest to that), high HTHSv, low NOACK for a 0w, did I mention the ester base oil that will leave the ring lands considerably cleaner at high mileage lol. You've got everything in one oil.

The car will do fine on any 20wt or 30wt oil. Mine has a 0w-40 in it right now so I can use the same oil for both my '14 328i and my Acura and stock up on it when I find a deal. Not a bit of difference in any aspect. I would shop by price unless you're like me and you like to see how many miles you can get out of a car in which case I recommend redline.



Don't trade fuel economy for wear.
Absurd.

Show me where afe accelerated wear vs the specified 20 grade.
You're obviously new here and have much to learn. I suggest going back and reading about a decades worth of posts from Doug hillary,Shannow and Molekule.
Then look up Dnewton and read his normalcy article,and look into the thousands of used oil analysis he's got.
then look at FX's used oil analysis where he's using m1 afe 0w-20 for 16000+ miles and his used oil analysis are stellar.
So I'll just chalk up your obviously uninformed post to ignorance of facts and maybe if you stick around long enough and absorb the data presented you'll clue in that in an engine that calls for a 20 grade wear is NOT increased using it vs a thicker grade.
Going thicker is fine if the operating conditions suggest it. Like much higher than normal oil temps for significant amounts of time. Extreme fuel dilution. Extended periods of time at high rpm.
Stuff like that may necessitate going thicker.
For example in my charger I use the prescribed 20 grade in the winter because I'm driving IT much easier and oil temps rarely exceed 230f.
In the summer I beat the car with lots of high rpm,and the oil temps often exceed 270f,so I use a 0w-40 in the summer because of that abuse the engine sees.
I've seen many 5.7l hemi used oil analysis using the prescribed 20 grade and there are a few here with 15000 miles on the oil and unless there was some kind of problem I've yet to see one with what you call elevated wear.
And that's with these owners driving the cars spiritedly when they saw the opportunity.
So the empirical data disagrees with your flawed opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
Such a shame to limit yourself to a 20wt in San Diego weather. A 5w-30 would work great in your climate. Don't always believe the one viscosity fits all climates stuff everyone likes to push.

Same with the filter. Why not use the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters? Why not a Pure One? Maybe a semi syn media Mobil One or K&N? OEM filters are average at best and they're definitely not required for warranty. It would be funny to hear their "excuses" if they wouldn't use a slightly heavier oil or non OEM filter.

Back to the 20wt since I assume its for warranty reasons, I would stay away from the AFE with its ultra low HTHS. Don't trade fuel economy for wear. I would go with Redline since it's on the heavier end of the 20wt spectrum. Ester base oil, moly, lots of ZDDP (no, it will not hurt the cats unless the car burns a considerable amount of oil. My Honda with 130,000 miles with high ZDDP from the first oil change and zero hydrocarbons on its last smog check will attest to that), high HTHSv, low NOACK for a 0w, did I mention the ester base oil that will leave the ring lands considerably cleaner at high mileage lol. You've got everything in one oil.

The car will do fine on any 20wt or 30wt oil. Mine has a 0w-40 in it right now so I can use the same oil for both my '14 328i and my Acura and stock up on it when I find a deal. Not a bit of difference in any aspect. I would shop by price unless you're like me and you like to see how many miles you can get out of a car in which case I recommend redline.


Well I wanted to stick to what Honda recommends for viscosity as it's still under full warranty.

I figured sticking with a Honda filter would also be better should any warranty issues arise, I also want to get the service done at the dealer for ease of record keeping when or if we decide to trade/sell it.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Wills05
Hey all,

This will be the second oil change for our '14 Accord. The car currently has bulk 0w20 in it from the dealer and oem Honda filter. I can get Mobil1 AFE for the same price as Amsoil XL, of the two which is a better performing oil? I can get both Amsoil and Mobil1 locally.

Whichever oil I end up with I'll be taking to the dealer and having the oil change completed there for warranty reassurance and my piece of mind. Also the car will still have an oem filter used on the oil changes.

Please help me figure it out,
Thanks!

Either M1 or Amsoil is good for full OCI with MM went down to 5%. Actually any synthetic 0W20 is more than adequate for Honda engine with full Mileage Minder, if you can get any synthetic 0W20 on sale/clearance at Autozone for $1/qt will be excellent. If not then Castrol Syntec 0W20 for $21.xx at Walmart is good too.

You don't need to have oil change at dealer for warranty, as long as you keep receipt(s) of oil and filter you buy, also keep a log of date and mileage when you change your oil.

I feel better knowing exactly what oil I pour into my engine(s). You take your oil to dealer but you can't be sure if they actually pouring your oil or bulk oil into your engine. If they let you into the working area to watch then you can sleep well knowing they use your oil.


I'm leaning more towards Amsoil, IF it's the better product. The goal is to comfortably go to 0% on the MM if needed, more than likely it will be changed between 5-10%. I am wondering more about M1 and Amsoil as those are the oils that I have used. I exclusively ran M1 5/30 in my Silverado until this last OCI and gave Amsoil a shot.

I know I don't need to have the service done at the dealer but, should the car be sold and or traded in I would much rather have full service records to prove what has been done and when.

I know the service advisor at my Honda dealer locally and I am quite sure they'll even let me pour it if I wanted.
 
Why limit yourself to 30 grade oil? Or even motor oil? 15w40 or 85w140 gear oil will serve you well! I'm kidding, of course.

Mobil1 always seems to be the cheapest 0w20 around where I am. Numerous UOA have shown that it will hold up to 10k or more. It will work great
 
Here in KC anyway you can buy 0w-20 in jugs, in at least 6 brands at Wal-Mart. Any of those will serve your Honda well. My 2005 Accord 4 cyl had no issues with any SM API starburst oil I put in it. Have used the AFE Mobil 1 in a couple of very cold winters recently, and it performed great.
 
Perfect. Save your money on oil that will not make your engine live longer than you need it to. Hang out in the shop and develop a rapport with the "tech". "Help". Buy lunch, clean up, hand him tools, buy little Christmas presents... That will take your engine farther than any oil will. Then if something serious happens, you will have a guy that knows you and will do a better job and you won't feel like you're doing something wrong when you have to leave the car for a day or two.

Originally Posted By: Wills05
I know the service advisor at my Honda dealer locally and I am quite sure they'll even let me pour it if I wanted.
 
No. Just no.



Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
Such a shame to limit yourself to a 20wt in San Diego weather. A 5w-30 would work great in your climate. Don't always believe the one viscosity fits all climates stuff everyone likes to push.

Same with the filter. Why not use the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters? Why not a Pure One? Maybe a semi syn media Mobil One or K&N? OEM filters are average at best and they're definitely not required for warranty. It would be funny to hear their "excuses" if they wouldn't use a slightly heavier oil or non OEM filter.

Back to the 20wt since I assume its for warranty reasons, I would stay away from the AFE with its ultra low HTHS. Don't trade fuel economy for wear. I would go with Redline since it's on the heavier end of the 20wt spectrum. Ester base oil, moly, lots of ZDDP (no, it will not hurt the cats unless the car burns a considerable amount of oil. My Honda with 130,000 miles with high ZDDP from the first oil change and zero hydrocarbons on its last smog check will attest to that), high HTHSv, low NOACK for a 0w, did I mention the ester base oil that will leave the ring lands considerably cleaner at high mileage lol. You've got everything in one oil.

The car will do fine on any 20wt or 30wt oil. Mine has a 0w-40 in it right now so I can use the same oil for both my '14 328i and my Acura and stock up on it when I find a deal. Not a bit of difference in any aspect. I would shop by price unless you're like me and you like to see how many miles you can get out of a car in which case I recommend redline.
 
Originally Posted By: Wills05
Hey all,

This will be the second oil change for our '14 Accord. The car currently has bulk 0w20 in it from the dealer and oem Honda filter. I can get Mobil1 AFE for the same price as Amsoil XL, of the two which is a better performing oil? I can get both Amsoil and Mobil1 locally.

Whichever oil I end up with I'll be taking to the dealer and having the oil change completed there for warranty reassurance and my piece of mind. Also the car will still have an oem filter used on the oil changes.

Please help me figure it out,

Unless you plan on keeping the Honda forever, why not stick with Honda's
blend which goes along nicely with their filter, especially if you plan on having
it serviced by your dealer. Thats what came in it new and its what they
use unless you specify otherwise. Honda does have a full synthetic; not sure
what the extra cost is, but either will hold your MM to 10K or thereabouts.
Personally I wouldnt be comfortable running a blend that far, but you might
ask your svc mngr his opinion.

In my '13 Accord, I use Mob1 or PP with a Fram Ultra filter and have a
local service shop do the change. Like you, I have a good report with
this shop and trust the svc mngr and techs. I believe it does pay in the
long run.
Thanks!
 
The J35 is a very reliable engine, but, it does go a bit harder on it's oil than the K24.

Based upon availability, typical price and it's well known reputation -- I would go with M1 0W-20 AFE. It will protect the J35 very well and return good fuel economy.

The Honda branded oil is good as well. It is a Conoco-Phillips product which would be closely related to the shelf versions of Motorcraft and Kendall.

TGMO 0W-20 is another fine oil, but I would recommend the M1 over it for price and availability.

Last but not least, lets be honest, regardless of your oil choice -- dealer or home oil change, the engine will outlast the rest of the car/your duration of ownership.
 
A 5w-xx would be fine in Cali. No need for a 0w20 unless that oil is an overall better performer by fuel mileage metrics and seat of the pants feel evidencing less incidence of ring sticking. My lil 1.5L Honda and our subarus like Valvoline 0w20. Over M1 and QSUD, though all should be OK. If I had the V6 I would be mixing in some near HD additised 30 grade (not "weight", guys) to get a little EPAW boost over the underadditised ILSAC "cat life extending" PCMO.

Again UOA don't show over all engine service life wear per se.
 
I put M1 AFE 0W20 in my daughter's 2014 4 cylinder Accord and TGMO 0W20 in our 2014 Odyssey. Both are good oils. For the oil filter, I use the Honda branded Filtech filter.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
Such a shame to limit yourself to a 20wt in San Diego weather. A 5w-30 would work great in your climate. Don't always believe the one viscosity fits all climates stuff everyone likes to push.

Same with the filter. Why not use the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters? Why not a Pure One? Maybe a semi syn media Mobil One or K&N? OEM filters are average at best and they're definitely not required for warranty. It would be funny to hear their "excuses" if they wouldn't use a slightly heavier oil or non OEM filter.

Back to the 20wt since I assume its for warranty reasons, I would stay away from the AFE with its ultra low HTHS. Don't trade fuel economy for wear. I would go with Redline since it's on the heavier end of the 20wt spectrum. Ester base oil, moly, lots of ZDDP (no, it will not hurt the cats unless the car burns a considerable amount of oil. My Honda with 130,000 miles with high ZDDP from the first oil change and zero hydrocarbons on its last smog check will attest to that), high HTHSv, low NOACK for a 0w, did I mention the ester base oil that will leave the ring lands considerably cleaner at high mileage lol. You've got everything in one oil.

The car will do fine on any 20wt or 30wt oil. Mine has a 0w-40 in it right now so I can use the same oil for both my '14 328i and my Acura and stock up on it when I find a deal. Not a bit of difference in any aspect. I would shop by price unless you're like me and you like to see how many miles you can get out of a car in which case I recommend redline.



Don't trade fuel economy for wear.
Absurd.

Show me where afe accelerated wear vs the specified 20 grade.
You're obviously new here and have much to learn. I suggest going back and reading about a decades worth of posts from Doug hillary,Shannow and Molekule.
Then look up Dnewton and read his normalcy article,and look into the thousands of used oil analysis he's got.
then look at FX's used oil analysis where he's using m1 afe 0w-20 for 16000+ miles and his used oil analysis are stellar.
So I'll just chalk up your obviously uninformed post to ignorance of facts and maybe if you stick around long enough and absorb the data presented you'll clue in that in an engine that calls for a 20 grade wear is NOT increased using it vs a thicker grade.
Going thicker is fine if the operating conditions suggest it. Like much higher than normal oil temps for significant amounts of time. Extreme fuel dilution. Extended periods of time at high rpm.
Stuff like that may necessitate going thicker.
For example in my charger I use the prescribed 20 grade in the winter because I'm driving IT much easier and oil temps rarely exceed 230f.
In the summer I beat the car with lots of high rpm,and the oil temps often exceed 270f,so I use a 0w-40 in the summer because of that abuse the engine sees.
I've seen many 5.7l hemi used oil analysis using the prescribed 20 grade and there are a few here with 15000 miles on the oil and unless there was some kind of problem I've yet to see one with what you call elevated wear.
And that's with these owners driving the cars spiritedly when they saw the opportunity.
So the empirical data disagrees with your flawed opinion.


YOU disagree with my opinion. You've shown no data.

I've read posts by those you mention, many of them agree with my stance or some variation of it.. Ive also read yours and I know that you repeat what you read around here with no understanding of how an engine works which I'll chalk up to ignorance. This site is like most. You have a handful of knowledgeable posters like the ones you mentioned on both sides. The rest just read and repeat, many times out of context, as their own to the new posters.

You actually think the wear metal section of a UOA can be used to show which oil has the lowest wear. Your entire argument is based off of a very flawed method of detecting wear especially when switching from one oil to the next to the next. Real tests have shown that a higher HTHS reduces wear and lower HTHS increases wear. I better add the "within reason" clause before the smart guys suggest a straight 60 with a 7.0 HTHSv. This is not debatable. What is debatable is whether or not to care; will you keep the car long enough for it to matter. Accelerated wear conditions such as high load and high rpm make the difference in high vs low HTHS wear more apparent but there's still a difference.

You point out viscosity vs temperature yet you recommend a 0w-20 in a climate that stays close to 60F all year long.

With that said since no one including myself really cares, what do you think the 5w-30 will hurt; why wouldn't you use it?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
A 5w-xx would be fine in Cali. No need for a 0w20 unless that oil is an overall better performer by fuel mileage metrics and seat of the pants feel evidencing less incidence of ring sticking. My lil 1.5L Honda and our subarus like Valvoline 0w20. Over M1 and QSUD, though all should be OK. If I had the V6 I would be mixing in some near HD additised 30 grade (not "weight", guys) to get a little EPAW boost over the underadditised ILSAC "cat life extending" PCMO.

Again UOA don't show over all engine service life wear per se.


My thoughts exactly. Nothing wrong with the 0w-20 oils in that climate but definitely nothing wrong with a 5w-30 either. Then again this is coming from a guy that runs Redline 0w-40 In the engine, Redline High Temp ATF in the supposedly sensitive power steering system, and Redline Lightweight Racing (a thin Type F) in the transmission in the same poor 130,000 mile Acura so what do I know.
grin.gif
 
Last edited:
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