Can I use M1 0w40 in '05 Landcruiser?

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Anyone using m1 0w40 on a 100 series landcruiser?

I'm running m1 5w30 ep now but would like to try 0w40 in the future.
 
If you're going to tow, sure! But, if not then, keep using the 5W30(if this is the recommended oil) or maybe, go to a 0W30 instead of the 40 wgt.
 
Originally Posted By: TKNY
Anyone using m1 0w40 on a 100 series landcruiser?

I'm running m1 5w30 ep now but would like to try 0w40 in the future.


EP is an excellent oil and is a great choice for you in NY... You could try 0W40 in the warmer months.
 
If I read wiki correctly, you have the 4.7 V8?

I'm running M1 0w40 in mine and haven't noticed anything wrong barring a -.1 difference in mpg according to the meter.
I chose this oil due to my mostly hot climate, the oil's reputation, and driving very little per year. I changed my oil on 4/30 of this year and have driven ~3k.
 
Yes it is the 4.7l V8.

Manual recommends 5w30 but I keep reading how the 0w40 is a higher quality oil than 5w30 EP, and considering I can occasionally get 0w40 cheaper I figured it might be worth a try.

Just was worried it might be too thin an oil for this specific motor, etc etc.
 
Originally Posted By: TKNY
Yes it is the 4.7l V8.

Manual recommends 5w30 but I keep reading how the 0w40 is a higher quality oil than 5w30 EP, and considering I can occasionally get 0w40 cheaper I figured it might be worth a try.

Just was worried it might be too thin an oil for this specific motor, etc etc.


If 5w30 is recommended my all means yes you could use the 0w40 I would in a heart beat not to thin no.
 
Originally Posted By: TKNY
Yes it is the 4.7l V8.

Manual recommends 5w30 but I keep reading how the 0w40 is a higher quality oil than 5w30 EP, and considering I can occasionally get 0w40 cheaper I figured it might be worth a try.

Just was worried it might be too thin an oil for this specific motor, etc etc.




I don't think there is any difference in quality between the 2 oils when used according to their respective intervals.
The EP has a higher PAO content which aids in cold start flow and increases potential interval length.
If running a 10000 mile interval there is no need for EP,the standard M1 is more than adequate unless you drive in what qualifies as severe service.
EP will run a 15000 mile interval and is guaranteed to do so.
M1 0w-40 is a great oil and you can't go wrong using it. Going a grade thicker will do absolutely no harm other than possibly consuming more fuel.
 
Originally Posted By: TKNY
Yes it is the 4.7l V8.

Manual recommends 5w30 but I keep reading how the 0w40 is a higher quality oil than 5w30 EP, and considering I can occasionally get 0w40 cheaper I figured it might be worth a try.

Just was worried it might be too thin an oil for this specific motor, etc etc.




What's too thin?

A 0w-40 is actually thicker than a 5w-30 at operating temp,and the engine specifies a 5w-30,so it's not too thin either.
Exactly what are you referring to as being too thin?
 
M1 0W-40 meets many Euro specs.
No M1 EP oil does so.
Some of these Euro applications allow drain intervals of well beyond the one year or 15K Mobil allows for the EP line, and there are a number of UOAs here that don't support the notion that M1 EP is a 15K oil in some applications.
M1 0W-40 is simply the more capable oil.
If I were the OP and wanted to use it, I'd do so with no hesitation.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
M1 0W-40 meets many Euro specs.
No M1 EP oil does so.
Some of these Euro applications allow drain intervals of well beyond the one year or 15K Mobil allows for the EP line, and there are a number of UOAs here that don't support the notion that M1 EP is a 15K oil in some applications.
M1 0W-40 is simply the more capable oil.
If I were the OP and wanted to use it, I'd do so with no hesitation.


Are there any temperature conditions that you would avoid the 0w40 in? I live in NYC so we dont really go below 0F in the winter and summer highs are usually in the 90s. Pretty mild range so I am assuming I will be fine.

Also I see in your sig that you do not use the 0w40 in any of your vehicles. Is it because you don't need the 15k+ interval or dont want to pay the high price tag, or something else?
 
Do you mean the 5W-30 is too thin?

Originally Posted By: TKNY
Yes it is the 4.7l V8.

Manual recommends 5w30 but I keep reading how the 0w40 is a higher quality oil than 5w30 EP, and considering I can occasionally get 0w40 cheaper I figured it might be worth a try.

Just was worried it might be too thin an oil for this specific motor, etc etc.
 
Originally Posted By: TKNY
Are there any temperature conditions that you would avoid the 0w40 in? I live in NYC so we dont really go below 0F in the winter and summer highs are usually in the 90s. Pretty mild range so I am assuming I will be fine.


5w300w40.jpg


The 0W40 is always thicker than the 5W30, at least down to freezing, which is when the viscosity charting tools don't get all that accurate...lets just say that they are a wash down to -18C (0F).

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
M1 0W-40 meets many Euro specs.
No M1 EP oil does so.
Some of these Euro applications allow drain intervals of well beyond the one year or 15K Mobil allows for the EP line, and there are a number of UOAs here that don't support the notion that M1 EP is a 15K oil in some applications.
M1 0W-40 is simply the more capable oil.
If I were the OP and wanted to use it, I'd do so with no hesitation.


Is a really really good point IMO, the 0W40 being extended drain for a few of the manufacturers and carrying a greater variety of specs, covers more bases...higher additive levels, which is allowable in the 40 grades and not in the 30s.

If the 0W40 is cheaper, use it happily...if it's the same price, then use it, just in case you have a really cold snap this winter, and need the 0W.
 
Toyotas from that era are designed to run on basic oils. The Landcruiser has legendary reliabity and is reliable even in the most inhospitable places on earth where oil quality is questionable.

I say run the oil viscosity the manufacturer tells you to. I don't think the 0w40 will give you any benefit over the xw30 except more cleaning potential which you probably don't need if you've been running synthetics instead of the dinos you could have been.
 
The oil is suitable for my old BMW.
I don't run it because it isn't required and does cost more than what I use in the car.
If I found some cheaply, you can trust that I'd use it in one of our Subies.
It's really thicker than needed for the Hondas, although it would work just fine.
 
Thanks guys for all the responses.

I stocked up 16qts of 5w30EP that I got on sale for $4/qt (ya I know not as good as some of the $1/qt steals people got) so I'll use that until the next deal comes along. If I see 0w40 for cheap I wont hesitate to try it.
 
You might want to check out the ih8mud forums for a wealth of information on all things Land Cruiser. Thousands of people with that exact vehicle...

I use the M1 0W-40 in my 80 Series Land Cruiser, but that's a completely different animal.
 
a 10-30 group III fake synthetic would flow enough for NY temps + last better as it needs less VII's, its HTHS will be better as well as its Noack. todays fake synthetics are cleaner + flow better than ever
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
a 10-30 group III fake synthetic would flow enough for NY temps + last better as it needs less VII's, its HTHS will be better as well as its Noack. todays fake synthetics are cleaner + flow better than ever



Are you just about done trolling yet.

Apparently this site has nothing to offer you. What previously banned member are you and what agenda are you trying to push.
 
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