Why The Dislike For 20W-50?

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I'd live with that sort of oil consumption in a high mileage vehicle assuming the minimum required oil pressure can be maintained on the spec' oil grade.
By the same token I can see experimenting with something heavier just to see how much of a difference it makes to the oil consumption.
 
Personally I'm only changing to the Defy for a few weepy seals. I had some luck with it stopping a slow weep on a front oil pan seal in a '91 GMC. Oil consumption really didn't change that much. May have gotten a few hundred extra miles before having to add. When the time comes to buy the oil, I'm not even sure if the 10W-40 will still be available. I believe the local AAP carries Defy in that grade, but Wal Mart does not.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Better fuel economy may be the least important advantage of thinner oils. The main advantages are less engine wear particularly on start-up and


OK, CATERHAM ...again...please show, in industry standard testing, SAE papers, ASTM papers, or any other credible source, which isn't fluff from manufacturers, where thinner oils provide less start-up wear than any other grade rated for the temperature.

Can start with Sequence IV if you like, which is the industry standard for warm up wear.


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
One problem most don't realize with running unnecessarily heavy oils is the huge penalty you have to pay to get just modestly greater high temperature viscosity.
Using the 20W-50 example vs say a 5W-30 syn', yes it has a 50% higher HTHSV but to get that the oil will be over 600% heavier at 32F. And if you compare the 20W-50 to a OEM high VI 0W-20, it's HTHSV is 80% higher but the price you pay is being 1400% heavier at 32F.


given that the HTHS, or the viscosity at operating temperature IS the point of the designer, they are aware of what it does at other temperatures.

You can't walk away from the required/designed HTHS because you want a particular viscosity at 0C.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
For the OP. If you feel the need to run a heavier than spec' 5W-30 grade oil to reduce oil consumption (you didn't mention how bad it was btw) M1 0W-40 would be my suggestion since it's relatively cheap (in the States) and you're getting the maximum hot viscosity for the minimum increase cold start viscosity.


Agreed...if I was in the states, I don't think I'd have anything else in my shed.
 
The latest formulation Mobil 1 0w40 is smooth and shear stable.
These would be my choices...All pretty cheap at Walmart as well.

Mobil 1 0w40
Rotella T6 5w40
Rotella T5 10w30
Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30
Pennzoil High Mileage 5w20 - If you want to use a 20 grade.

A 20w50 has too high viscous friction especially for modern engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Better fuel economy may be the least important advantage of thinner oils. The main advantages are less engine wear particularly on start-up and


OK, CATERHAM ...again...please show, in industry standard testing, SAE papers, ASTM papers, or any other credible source, which isn't fluff from manufacturers, where thinner oils provide less start-up wear than any other grade rated for the temperature.

Can start with Sequence IV if you like, which is the industry standard for warm up wear.


I don't think thick/thin matters wrt startup wear unless you're at such an extreme that you can't pump the thick stuff at all or it won't drain back to the pain.

Some points (I'm talking plain bearings here, not cams, rings, etc):
1. You start out in boundary lubrication whether thick or thin.
2. You transition to hydrodynamic lubrication when the engine starts rotating.
3. A thicker oil should form a film faster (thicker film at a lower rpm), but the engine might spin faster with a thinner oil, so I think it's a wash.
4. Don't bother talking about thinner oil getting to the parts faster because there is residual oil between the journals and the bearings to form the films. It's not like your engine disassembles itself every time it shuts down and cleans off all the oil. Your bearings are never dry, and the residual oil will not burn off that fast.

Anyway, I think thick or thin for startup wear is a wash.
 
And I forgot to note that the primary mechanism for startup wear is acid etching due to the condensation of moisture when engine parts are cold. This type of "wear" is agnostic to thick/thin oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Skid
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Better fuel economy may be the least important advantage of thinner oils. The main advantages are less engine wear particularly on start-up and


OK, CATERHAM ...again...please show, in industry standard testing, SAE papers, ASTM papers, or any other credible source, which isn't fluff from manufacturers, where thinner oils provide less start-up wear than any other grade rated for the temperature.

Can start with Sequence IV if you like, which is the industry standard for warm up wear.


I don't think thick/thin matters wrt startup wear unless you're at such an extreme that you can't pump the thick stuff at all or it won't drain back to the pain.

Some points (I'm talking plain bearings here, not cams, rings, etc):
1. You start out in boundary lubrication whether thick or thin.
2. You transition to hydrodynamic lubrication when the engine starts rotating.
3. A thicker oil should form a film faster (thicker film at a lower rpm), but the engine might spin faster with a thinner oil, so I think it's a wash.
4. Don't bother talking about thinner oil getting to the parts faster because there is residual oil between the journals and the bearings to form the films. It's not like your engine disassembles itself every time it shuts down and cleans off all the oil. Your bearings are never dry, and the residual oil will not burn off that fast.

Anyway, I think thick or thin for startup wear is a wash.

I think every auto manufacturer would disagree with you and remember the motivation for the development of the as light as possible on start-up OEM 0W-20s was to reduce start-up wear with the constant on/off cycles of hybrid engines. And when these engines are started, there is no gradual warm-up but instant elevated rpms under load.

Back to the discussion of motor mud I mean the 20W-50 grade, even engines with a fairly high oil pump relief (by-pass) setting will be in by-pass mode instantly on start-up even at room temperature on idle. So yes you will have reduced oil flow on start-up and much of the time during warm-up. And that is the recipe for increased engine wear particularly if you're indifferent to keeping the rev's very low or are otherwise indifferent to any sort of warm-up regimen.
Of course this applies to all heavier grades but to a lesser extent. All the more reason to run the lightest oil specified with the lowest possible KV40 spec'.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Back to the discussion of motor mud I mean the 20W-50 grade,


LOL...again, you take the thread on a diversion, then accuse others as being off topic.

"motor mud"...is that a hint of your thin oil bias showing through instead of the result of a science certificate ?

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I think every auto manufacturer would disagree with you and remember the motivation for the development of the as light as possible on start-up OEM 0W-20s was to reduce start-up wear with the constant on/off cycles of hybrid engines. And when these engines are started, there is no gradual warm-up but instant elevated rpms under load.


Almost without exception, the technical literature (scientific papers) that they provide mentions economy an emissions first and foremost, some mention still attaining acceptable wear/life, and some of the Toyota pieces that you pull out have the fluff "enhanced protection" or some similar highly scientific guff.

If you've got something more substantial than marketing fluff, please (again, please) bring it to the table.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
even engines with a fairly high oil pump relief (by-pass) setting will be in by-pass mode instantly on start-up even at room temperature on idle. So yes you will have reduced oil flow on start-up and much of the time during warm-up. And that is the recipe for increased engine wear


How ?

How does the engine being in bypass increase wear ?

The oil is there, the bearings are solidly in hydrodynamic lubrication ?

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Better fuel economy may be the least important advantage of thinner oils. The main advantages are less engine wear particularly on start-up and


OK, CATERHAM ...again...please show, in industry standard testing, SAE papers, ASTM papers, or any other credible source, which isn't fluff from manufacturers, where thinner oils provide less start-up wear than any other grade rated for the temperature.

Can start with Sequence IV if you like, which is the industry standard for warm up wear.


You missed a bit...again...
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Better fuel economy may be the least important advantage of thinner oils. The main advantages are less engine wear particularly on start-up and


OK, CATERHAM ...again...please show, in industry standard testing, SAE papers, ASTM papers, or any other credible source, which isn't fluff from manufacturers, where thinner oils provide less start-up wear than any other grade rated for the temperature.

Can start with Sequence IV if you like, which is the industry standard for warm up wear.


I don't think thick/thin matters wrt startup wear unless you're at such an extreme that you can't pump the thick stuff at all or it won't drain back to the pain.

Some points (I'm talking plain bearings here, not cams, rings, etc):
1. You start out in boundary lubrication whether thick or thin.
2. You transition to hydrodynamic lubrication when the engine starts rotating.
3. A thicker oil should form a film faster (thicker film at a lower rpm), but the engine might spin faster with a thinner oil, so I think it's a wash.
4. Don't bother talking about thinner oil getting to the parts faster because there is residual oil between the journals and the bearings to form the films. It's not like your engine disassembles itself every time it shuts down and cleans off all the oil. Your bearings are never dry, and the residual oil will not burn off that fast.

Anyway, I think thick or thin for startup wear is a wash.

I think every auto manufacturer would disagree with you and remember the motivation for the development of the as light as possible on start-up OEM 0W-20s was to reduce start-up wear with the constant on/off cycles of hybrid engines. And when these engines are started, there is no gradual warm-up but instant elevated rpms under load.

Back to the discussion of motor mud I mean the 20W-50 grade, even engines with a fairly high oil pump relief (by-pass) setting will be in by-pass mode instantly on start-up even at room temperature on idle. So yes you will have reduced oil flow on start-up and much of the time during warm-up. And that is the recipe for increased engine wear particularly if you're indifferent to keeping the rev's very low or are otherwise indifferent to any sort of warm-up regimen.
Of course this applies to all heavier grades but to a lesser extent. All the more reason to run the lightest oil specified with the lowest possible KV40 spec'.


What's the science to back up your opinion? Your posts sound like religion/politics to me. An opinion with nothing to back it up.

Hybrid engines are proof that startup wear is not that big a deal. And yes, these hybrids avoid gradual warm up, which is better for wear because you want to minimize the condensation. There's even some exhaust heat recovery in some of these hybrids to heat up coolant faster.

If you want to talk auto engineers and engine wear, then let's refer to Lubrizol's tool and look at the various manufacturer's specifications for oil:
http://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdditives/ACEA/RelativePerformanceTool/default.html

Where's the "startup wear" parameter there? There is none. There's just one category for wear, and it's "wear." And all the standards that have a somewhat high rating for wear (BMW LL-01, MB 229.3, etc.) require an HTHS of at least 3.5, which is a medium viscosity, not a thin viscosity. I think the auto engineers have spoken.
 
^
fwiw I've read and have learned (learnt?) much from stalwart contributors like Shannow, MolaKule, CATERHAM, Doug Hilary, et al.

Who’s correct in his opinions and whose presentation of facts are most accurate and useful for my purposes?
These are the days of BITOGers lives.

Don’t know for certain and it’s entirely unlikely I ever will. They’re invariably entertaining and thought provoking though!
 
Originally Posted By: splinter
^
fwiw I've read and have learned (learnt?) much from stalwart contributors like Shannow, MolaKule, CATERHAM, Doug Hilary, et al.

Who’s correct in his opinions and whose presentation of facts are most accurate and useful for my purposes?
These are the days of BITOGers lives.

Don’t know for certain and it’s entirely unlikely I ever will. They’re invariably entertaining and thought provoking though!


Well, three of the people on your list have the education, training and experience to offer an authoritative opinion, but still back up their positions with documentation and accepted facts from other credible sources.

Then there is Caterham, who I gather is an insurance guy of some sort who seems to pull the info he posts out of his backside as he can never back up anything he says. He thinks he can out-engineer the auto makers with only a pressure gauge and a temperature gauge. It is amazing to me that so many here are too gullible to be able to see through him.

As I've posted before, the inclusion of Caterham on your list is proof no con man will ever starve.
 
Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
Originally Posted By: splinter
^
fwiw I've read and have learned (learnt?) much from stalwart contributors like Shannow, MolaKule, CATERHAM, Doug Hilary, et al.

Who’s correct in his opinions and whose presentation of facts are most accurate and useful for my purposes?
These are the days of BITOGers lives.

Don’t know for certain and it’s entirely unlikely I ever will. They’re invariably entertaining and thought provoking though!


Well, three of the people on your list have the education, training and experience to offer an authoritative opinion, but still back up their positions with documentation and accepted facts from other credible sources.

Then there is Caterham, who I gather is an insurance guy of some sort who seems to pull the info he posts out of his backside as he can never back up anything he says. He thinks he can out-engineer the auto makers with only a pressure gauge and a temperature gauge. It is amazing to me that so many here are too gullible to be able to see through him.

As I've posted before, the inclusion of Caterham on your list is proof no con man will ever starve.



Wow.
A bit harsh I think.

Caterham has his position,which I for one am glad because he provides an alternative point of view.
Yin needs yang
Alpha requires omega
I may not always agree with everyone here's posts however I am glad that they post. I like that there's is open discussion on these topics.

Without caterham we'd all be thicker is better,and how much fun would that be.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
I think the auto engineers have spoken.

Yes the auto engineers have spoken but I guess you don't accept what the engineers from Toyota, Honda etc have to say.


Exactly.

Doug Hillary has always said to run the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer.

And from what I can gather, he likes synthetics.

He has decades of real world experience to back up these general rules.

And Toyota is the most successful automaker the world has ever seen. Their engineers must know something and Honda and Mazda do too I would think.

The overwhelming evidence is that full synthetic 0w20 is the right choice for engines that specify it.

Very honestly, if someone like Doug says run the manufacturer viscosity and we're talking about a manufacturer like Toyota, then other opinions, expert or not, are irrelevant without comprehensive proof.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
Originally Posted By: splinter
^
fwiw I've read and have learned (learnt?) much from stalwart contributors like Shannow, MolaKule, CATERHAM, Doug Hilary, et al.

Who’s correct in his opinions and whose presentation of facts are most accurate and useful for my purposes?
These are the days of BITOGers lives.

Don’t know for certain and it’s entirely unlikely I ever will. They’re invariably entertaining and thought provoking though!


Well, three of the people on your list have the education, training and experience to offer an authoritative opinion, but still back up their positions with documentation and accepted facts from other credible sources.

Then there is Caterham, who I gather is an insurance guy of some sort who seems to pull the info he posts out of his backside as he can never back up anything he says. He thinks he can out-engineer the auto makers with only a pressure gauge and a temperature gauge. It is amazing to me that so many here are too gullible to be able to see through him.

As I've posted before, the inclusion of Caterham on your list is proof no con man will ever starve.



Wow.
A bit harsh I think.

Caterham has his position,which I for one am glad because he provides an alternative point of view.
Yin needs yang
Alpha requires omega
I may not always agree with everyone here's posts however I am glad that they post. I like that there's is open discussion on these topics.

Without caterham we'd all be thicker is better,and how much fun would that be.


I prefer facts and accurate information to "points of view." Throwing something out because it sounds good in his head does not contribute anything of value. Neither does arguing with those who actually are experts.
 
Originally Posted By: aa1986
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
I think the auto engineers have spoken.

Yes the auto engineers have spoken but I guess you don't accept what the engineers from Toyota, Honda etc have to say.


Exactly.

Doug Hillary has always said to run the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer.

And from what I can gather, he likes synthetics.

He has decades of real world experience to back up these general rules.

And Toyota is the most successful automaker the world has ever seen. Their engineers must know something and Honda and Mazda do too I would think.

The overwhelming evidence is that full synthetic 0w20 is the right choice for engines that specify it.

Very honestly, if someone like Doug says run the manufacturer viscosity and we're talking about a manufacturer like Toyota, then other opinions, expert or not, are irrelevant without comprehensive proof.


What about the thread where Toyota called for 10W60 in one of their track cars? CONMAN didn't think much of Toyota's judgement in that case. In fact, he has repeatedly posted that using a much thinner than specified oil is fine....based on his in depth research involving temperature and pressure gauges.

He is the Nigerian prince of motor oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clevy


Wow.
A bit harsh I think.

Caterham has his position,which I for one am glad because he provides an alternative point of view.
Yin needs yang
Alpha requires omega
I may not always agree with everyone here's posts however I am glad that they post. I like that there's is open discussion on these topics.

Without caterham we'd all be thicker is better,and how much fun would that be.


A bit harsh you think? Now that IS hilarious. Let me refresh your memory of a post you made in response to one of mine:

"Absolute gold here.

Wants the best regardless of cost but uses syn 3 in his harley.
HILLARIOUS to say the least.
Then comments on how great it is in all 3 holes.
Even better than HILLARIOUS.

The tranny has gears,thus a gear oil is the right fluid and is BEST in that application.
The primary needs a fluid to keep the clutches cool,to wash away debris and still maintain friction. Any hdeo,like Rotella costs way less and dies exactly what's required.
And syn 3 it citgo junk. The additive package is weak at best.
But you want the best,regardless of cost.
Redline shockproof is the best for the tranny. Second best is any other gear oil.
The primary would be fine with rotella. I use it in my significantly modified harley and I can't get the stock clutch to slip.
And the engine is fine with any hdeo 15w-40,but if it's real hot thicker is smart.
I'm not trying to be a jerk here,I'm just pointing out the absurd nature of your post compared to the products you think are best
Most harley guys are duped into thinking because the oil has a harley badge it's the best. It's because they follow blindly without actually researching anything. It's common in the harley world.
It's almost like some guys see that badge and their sensibilities turn off
."

You did not even direct your response to me as if I was not even worthy of direct contact. Then you proceed to express your contempt of most HD riders contending that they are easily duped, blindly follow the bar and shield, and have no sensibilities. Knowledge is a wonderful thing. However, it makes very little difference how much knowledge you have on a subject if you do not know how to transmit that knowledge to others. Talking down to someone who puts up a post you do not agree with, particularly a relatively new guy,is not the way to successfully impart your knowledge. I want to thank you for the warm welcome and let you know that I have no interest whatsoever in anything you have to say.

Dave
 
Car companies have been working to take friction out of modern engines and now state that Xw20 oils provide "Adequate" protection...I translate this to mean "Our engine now is capable of a low viscosity HTHS 3.0 oil...But it has to be shear stable". I "might" use a 20 grade if they specify 0w16 oil.

smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Car companies have been working to take friction out of modern engines and now state that Xw20 oils provide "Adequate" protection...I translate this to mean "Our engine now is capable of a low viscosity HTHS 3.0 oil...But it has to be shear stable". I "might" use a 20 grade if they specify 0w16 oil.

smile.gif



I never liked the word adequate. Superior OTOH would be a better choice, if it were true. Ever wonder why they picked adequate?
27.gif
 
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