Zeibart RustProofing

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More applicator error than product error. If you local ziebart is not doing a good job I am glad there is a competitor for you to go to. Hopefully they do better.

All I can say is my 1986 Monte Carlo SS is still rust free due to the ziebart in my area. It has only ever seen one winter, and even then only as a backup though.
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Originally Posted By: JHZR2


I'll bet they skip some corrosion protection stages in the name of cost savings.


Using the word "bet" means of course you have no idea!


No I have a pretty good idea... Starting with your anecdotal evidence, followed by plenty of others. Anyone with half a brain will realize that different materials and treatments cost different amounts of money, and so selection of same can directly relate back to corrosion resistance.

Ziebart may be a joke, but it may also have protected lots of cars and so you may have no idea either. Your single point on a questionable situation holds little evidence. But the presence of rust issues from Hyundai/Kia seems known.

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/08/15/hyundai-sonata-azera-santa-fe-kia-sorento-recall/

http://articles.latimes.com/2013/nov/26/autos/la-fi-hy-autos-kia-recalls-sedona-minivan-20131126

http://repairpal.com/fuel-tank-leak-due-to-corrosion-from-road-salt-411

http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Kia/Spectra/

I get it that lots of cars have recalls and plenty of other manufacturers have issues with corrosion... But Ziebart or not, the situation is something that should NOT have happened, particularly given how the vehicle was stored and used
 
A rustproofing job is as good as the person applying the product. A lousy job with missed spots=problems. Even if the very best product known to man is used.

I see paint jobs in houses 100's of times a year with top tier peeling paint. 9.9 out of 10 times it was applicator error.

As far as Kia/Hyundai JHZR2 showed some compelling evidence about their vehicles and rust.
 
And none of those links mentioned my model or year, anywho the problem is now fixed with the new NiCopp brake lines, plus the mechanic who is also a close friend informed me the underside of the car is in excellent shape with no visible rust,

This coming spring its to go in for a Krown job.
 
Believe what you wish.

I'll go now by what others feedback is, and its not good.

How many miles have you got on that 18 year old van?
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Believe what you wish.

I'll go now by what others feedback is, and its not good.

How many miles have you got on that 18 year old van?


Believe what I wish? I believe what I see, and that's no rust or rot, anywhere. The 27+ year old van has under 100K miles on it. It's seen a lot of snowy NY winters. Maybe you just got a lousy job, or maybe I got a very good job. Take your pick.
wink.gif


Keep in mind 27 years ago was a long time for most cars, maybe Ziebart was using better materials then, and maybe the tip I tossed the guy before he started the work made him do a better job. I could have been lucky too! Either way I'm happy and my van is 100% rust free. Like I said before you can use the best materials in the world and a lousy job applying them and you'll end up with problems. You could do a perfect job with the best stuff and apply it to a poor quality vehicle and end up with problems. These things happen.
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Believe what you wish.

I'll go now by what others feedback is, and its not good.

How many miles have you got on that 18 year old van?


I have seen this van with my own eyes. I lives outside and its clean as a whistle even underneath, no rust anywhere.
Whatever was applied has worked real well for a very long time.
 
OK, Your van is cherry and has no rust.

But a 27 year old van with not even 100,000 miles on it, that comes out to less than 3700 miles a year. So not much is seen on salty road at least compared to what most drivers here in the Midwest drive. Normal mileage here is a minimum of 12,000 miles a year, I normally drive 20 to 40 thousand miles a year. Being as salt is applied during the months of Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb., and March that comes out to over 8,000 miles a year in salt, more than twice as many miles as your van travels in a year.

Now do you wash/spray the underside of your van after each trip out on the road?

I do not nor can I.

BTW, My wife's Rio is also as clean as a whistle, except for the unseen location where the brake line rusted thru. At least as far as I can tell at this time.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: jcwit
OK, Your van is cherry and has no rust.

But a 27 year old van with not even 100,000 miles on it, that comes out to less than 3700 miles a year. So not much is seen on salty road at least compared to what most drivers here in the Midwest drive. Normal mileage here is a minimum of 12,000 miles a year, I normally drive 20 to 40 thousand miles a year. Being as salt is applied during the months of Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb., and March that comes out to over 8,000 miles a year in salt, more than twice as many miles as your van travels in a year.

Now do you wash/spray the underside of your van after each trip out on the road?

I do not nor can I.

BTW, My wife's Rio is also as clean as a whistle, except for the unseen location where the brake line rusted thru. At least as far as I can tell at this time.


I took very good care of it when it was new, as far as keeping it clean and waxed. In the last 10 years not so much, and the paint is starting to fade a bit. It would be caked with salt for weeks at a time and never was driven through a car wash. When I got around to it, and the planets were in alignment I cleaned it. In the spring I would set up a sprinkler under it to wash the chassis. My Jeep OTOH I stay on top of.

Granted the miles are low, and higher miles might have taken more of a toll, but it still had 27+ years for the elements to do their thing. Spray something with a road salt and water mix and let it sit, it will still rust. Rust doesn't need motion to spread.

Not to beat a dead horse, the product is only as good as the person applying it. The guy who did mine did a good job. I think that's what it boils down to. It could have been Ziebart, or Ziefart, Krown, or Krrap, the job is only as good as the tech applying the product. Some vehicles use better grade metals than others, that helps too.

It's like painting a car, you can use the best paint in the world and lousy prep and application techniques and produce a lousy job. When that happens typically the paint gets the blame because no one wants to fess up to doing lousy work.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: jcwit
OK, Your van is cherry and has no rust.

But a 27 year old van with not even 100,000 miles on it, that comes out to less than 3700 miles a year. So not much is seen on salty road at least compared to what most drivers here in the Midwest drive. Normal mileage here is a minimum of 12,000 miles a year, I normally drive 20 to 40 thousand miles a year. Being as salt is applied during the months of Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb., and March that comes out to over 8,000 miles a year in salt, more than twice as many miles as your van travels in a year.

Now do you wash/spray the underside of your van after each trip out on the road?

I do not nor can I.

BTW, My wife's Rio is also as clean as a whistle, except for the unseen location where the brake line rusted thru. At least as far as I can tell at this time.


I took very good care of it when it was new, as far as keeping it clean and waxed. In the last 10 years not so much, and the paint is starting to fade a bit. It would be caked with salt for weeks at a time and never was driven through a car wash. When I got around to it, and the planets were in alignment I cleaned it. In the spring I would set up a sprinkler under it to wash the chassis. My Jeep OTOH I stay on top of.

Granted the miles are low, and higher miles might have taken more of a toll, but it still had 27+ years for the elements to do their thing. Spray something with a road salt and water mix and let it sit, it will still rust. Rust doesn't need motion to spread.

Not to beat a dead horse, the product is only as good as the person applying it. The guy who did mine did a good job. I think that's what it boils down to. It could have been Ziebart, or Ziefart, Krown, or Krrap, the job is only as good as the tech applying the product. Some vehicles use better grade metals than others, that helps too.

It's like painting a car, you can use the best paint in the world and lousy prep and application techniques and produce a lousy job. When that happens typically the paint gets the blame because no one wants to fess up to doing lousy work.


+1 Good prep and full coverage is King. It sounds to me like they did a good job for ya.-RD
 
I considered zeibart when we bought the wife's Mountaineer new. They offer warranties on new vehicles and will pay 100% of the bill for the replacement of any panels that may rust, the stipulation is you have to take it in annually so they can touch up any spots that are chipped or cracked. Ultimately I chose not to because the thought of covering the underside scares me, I'd rather be able to see a problem as it starts rather then discover it once its already full blown, and it seems like this is possible with any type of undercoating. I ended up going with KROWN on the Mountaineer and my truck and so far so good.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: jcwit
OK, Your van is cherry and has no rust.

But a 27 year old van with not even 100,000 miles on it, that comes out to less than 3700 miles a year. So not much is seen on salty road at least compared to what most drivers here in the Midwest drive. Normal mileage here is a minimum of 12,000 miles a year, I normally drive 20 to 40 thousand miles a year. Being as salt is applied during the months of Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb., and March that comes out to over 8,000 miles a year in salt, more than twice as many miles as your van travels in a year.

Now do you wash/spray the underside of your van after each trip out on the road?

I do not nor can I.

BTW, My wife's Rio is also as clean as a whistle, except for the unseen location where the brake line rusted thru. At least as far as I can tell at this time.


I took very good care of it when it was new, as far as keeping it clean and waxed. In the last 10 years not so much, and the paint is starting to fade a bit. It would be caked with salt for weeks at a time and never was driven through a car wash. When I got around to it, and the planets were in alignment I cleaned it. In the spring I would set up a sprinkler under it to wash the chassis. My Jeep OTOH I stay on top of.

Granted the miles are low, and higher miles might have taken more of a toll, but it still had 27+ years for the elements to do their thing. Spray something with a road salt and water mix and let it sit, it will still rust. Rust doesn't need motion to spread.

Not to beat a dead horse, the product is only as good as the person applying it. The guy who did mine did a good job. I think that's what it boils down to. It could have been Ziebart, or Ziefart, Krown, or Krrap, the job is only as good as the tech applying the product. Some vehicles use better grade metals than others, that helps too.

It's like painting a car, you can use the best paint in the world and lousy prep and application techniques and produce a lousy job. When that happens typically the paint gets the blame because no one wants to fess up to doing lousy work.


Regardless from the overall reviews and feedbacks & what happened to me is I will never return to Ziebart, nor will I recommend it to anyone anywhere.

JMO

Praise God my wife wasn't applying the brakes while coming to a stop light or stop sign.

YMMV
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit


Regardless from the overall reviews and feedbacks & what happened to me is I will never return to Ziebart, nor will I recommend it to anyone anywhere.

JMO

Praise God my wife wasn't applying the brakes while coming to a stop light or stop sign.

YMMV


Great, but if you take out "Ziebart" from all the above good posts, maybe you will understand that application process is very important. Keep that in mind when you go to Krown, as some establishments apply the product very sparingly. I noticed that with the shop that did my Mazda 3. I don't use them anymore.
If you watch the application process and make them do it right, you should be fine, but don't go assuming that everything will be rosy just because Krown was slapped on.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: jcwit


Regardless from the overall reviews and feedbacks & what happened to me is I will never return to Ziebart, nor will I recommend it to anyone anywhere.

JMO

Praise God my wife wasn't applying the brakes while coming to a stop light or stop sign.

YMMV


Great, but if you take out "Ziebart" from all the above good posts, maybe you will understand that application process is very important. Keep that in mind when you go to Krown, as some establishments apply the product very sparingly. I noticed that with the shop that did my Mazda 3. I don't use them anymore.
If you watch the application process and make them do it right, you should be fine, but don't go assuming that everything will be rosy just because Krown was slapped on.


Thanks for helping make my point for me, you did it much better than I did!

Preparation and proper application is the key, the name of the product or the company applying it has nothing to do with it. I know tipping the guy before he started the job, and I watched him do it had a lot to do with how long the job lasted. Had I mentioned Krown applied it, I bet the whole tone of this discussion would be different!
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint


Thanks for helping make my point for me, you did it much better than I did!

Preparation and proper application is the key, the name of the product or the company applying it has nothing to do with it. I know tipping the guy before he started the job, and I watched him do it had a lot to do with how long the job lasted. Had I mentioned Krown applied it, I bet the whole tone of this discussion would be different!


Not as far as I'm concerned after reading the reviews and complaints. Look up Krown or RustCheck and check out their reviews.
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Originally Posted By: demarpaint


Thanks for helping make my point for me, you did it much better than I did!

Preparation and proper application is the key, the name of the product or the company applying it has nothing to do with it. I know tipping the guy before he started the job, and I watched him do it had a lot to do with how long the job lasted. Had I mentioned Krown applied it, I bet the whole tone of this discussion would be different!


Not as far as I'm concerned after reading the reviews and complaints. Look up Krown or RustCheck and check out their reviews.


I thought Krown and RustCheck were the best, and Ziebart sucked. If that is in fact what you're saying then you missed the whole point in what I was trying to say. Proper preparation and proper application makes for a good job, not the name of the company doing it. Its the mechanic doing the job. He can work for Krown, Ziebart, a mom and pop shop, or spray the [censored] out of his back yard, its all up to the guy doing the job. So if the guy spraying the [censored] out of his back yard does the best prep and application work, his job will last the longest. Having a quality vehicle can help a bit too.
 
I get ya demar. The job is only as good as the guy doing it. Isn't that true for just about anything done by hand?-RD
 
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