Set me straight on air cooled OPE oil.

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Is it okay to run a multi grade when 30 weight is specified? I've been told/ read a multi weight will foam when used as a 30 weight.

The Honda 13 horse is spec'd for 30 weight IIRC.. The manual says 10w-30 through 20w50 can be used depending on anticipated temperatures. The chart didn't mention this, but I'd prefer a high detergent 15w40 honestly. Either way, the general consensus here is that the engine will last for a very long time regardless of oil as long as it's kept topped off. The engine is on a pressure washer so running it in cold temps never happens. *Currently running clearance M1 as well

The yard vac is spec'd for a 30 weight but is filled with clearance M1. It consumes oil pretty quick (only used it maybe 5 times in the fall.. Brought oil level slightly below fill mark) so I'm inclined to run a 15w40 in that as well.

Both 4 cycle mowers (the LB having the same Tecumseh as the yard vac) are spec'd for 30 weight but have gotten 10w30 for years and have very slow consumption. No issues yet.

I'm thinking 15w40 for everything. Sound about right?

The 2 stroke LBs are of course the most awesome of the OPE engines and get just plain Jane LB oil mixed with ethanol free high 91 octane.
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I use 15w-40 or 20w-50 in my power equipment. In the push mower it is anything left over. and I just check the oil level before each mow.
 
For hot Indiana summers, I'd run 15w40 in all my OPE. Maybe even 20w50 for well worn or super hard worked stuff.
 
I'm running Amsoil 5w 30 hdd or 10w 30 mct motorcycle oil. I prefer the higher zinc oils. Briggs own synthetic oil has almost 1300 of zddp.
 
I also have a stash of about 8 gallons of M1 TDT I could use. Clearance as well.

Might run it in the pressure washer, but give everything else dino.
 
Originally Posted By: wag123
Just use a high quality SAE 30 (like PYB) and don't worry about it.


Normally I would, but 30 weight seems to be very hard for me to find locally. WM has ND 30 weight, but that's all I have had luck with.

Car parts stores have it, but i might as well buy a quality blend or synthetic HDEO (*at WM) for the price.
 
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M1, Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 is among the most robust, off the shelf oil you can find. It's ideal for OPE of any kind. Having done a large number of UOA tests on various engines, there is one universal truth. M1, TDT seems to always come out on top, with the lowest wear metals.

The TDI forums also noted that TDT produced among the lowest wear metals per 1000 miles.

The only exception being air cooled generators and water pumps here in South Florida. Where stagnant air and extremely high loads result in very high oil temperatures. In those cases, I use M1, 15W-50.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
M1, Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 is among the most robust, off the shelf oil you can find. It's ideal for OPE of any kind. Having done a large number of UOA tests on various engines, there is one universal truth. M1, TDT seems to always come out on top, with the lowest wear metals.

The TDI forums also noted that TDT produced among the lowest wear metals per 1000 miles.

The only exception being air cooled generators and water pumps here in South Florida. Where stagnant air and extremely high loads result in very high oil temperatures. In those cases, I use M1, 15W-50.


I was always under the impression M1 caused excessively high wear metals.
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JK.

Out of curiosity, were your tests up against Rotella T6 as well?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad

Normally I would, but 30 weight seems to be very hard for me to find locally. WM has ND 30 weight, but that's all I have had luck with.


My local Wal-Mart has Supertech SAE30, Castrol SAE30, and Quaker State SAE30. Should be pretty easy to find.

I do agree that 15W40 in EVERYTHING would be just fine. I actually think a 40 weight is a good idea for the pressure washer. They see pretty high duty cycles.
 
" ... but I would not go to 15W40 if 10W30 or 30 is in the manual."

I used to preach that 15W40 is about ideal for most OPE. In the colder weather, use 5W40 for easier starting. While I still think either is a good choice for most OPE in really warm weather, especially for older engines that regularly consume oil, I am hesitant to use it in newer machines. Newer/tighter machines are probably better off with an XW30 and the thinner oil may splash around inside the case better than something thicker.

As for 15W50 or 20W50, I would pick another weight. The extra weight not only may pose a problem for the dipper/splasher as noted above, the extra weight may add significant load to the engine and cause it to run hotter than a thinner oil would. Probably not an improvement.
 
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace


As for 15W50 or 20W50, I would pick another weight. The extra weight not only may pose a problem for the dipper/splasher as noted above, the extra weight may add significant load to the engine and cause it to run hotter than a thinner oil would. Probably not an improvement.


Agreed, except in my generator or water pump situation here in South Florida. That's where the higher viscosity is helpful and sometimes absolutely necessary.
 
None of these mentioned engines have filters. All of them will be ran in 60*F+ weather with the exception of the oil consuming yard vac. It might see temps in the 30s, but that's about it.

Didn't someone here post a photo of a thermometer gun reading about 230*F from a lawn mower engine?
 
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
None of these mentioned engines have filters. All of them will be ran in 60*F+ weather with the exception of the oil consuming yard vac. It might see temps in the 30s, but that's about it.

Didn't someone here post a photo of a thermometer gun reading about 230*F from a lawn mower engine?


Lawn mowers often get grass in the cooling fin area and few people blow that stuff off routinely. Mouse nests also could effect the cooling fins. Lawn mowers certainly could get hot being worked hard on a hot summer day.

But generators should not have that problem (maybe mouse nests). Nor most other OPE.
 
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