Lubegard Engine Oil Protectant improves oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
I just picked up 2 15 ounce bottles for $10.95 each from Summit Racing (would have been free shipping if the whole order was over $99.00).

I am hoping that the high boron and calcium content in this will help boost a fuel diluted, higher miles, TBN depleted, late winter OCI.
wink.gif




Liqui-moly motor oil saver is actually made for just such an application.


True, but the Bio Tech stuff does this without increasing the viscosity of my winter OCI one iota.
wink.gif




Come on. Unless the engine has a 2 quart sump I doubt viscosity is affected in any meaningful way.
Though I can't disagree with your logic,I don't agree that in a typical 5 quart sump that viscosity is affected in any real tangible way.


Yes, but as you've stated, you agree to a point, and it actually makes even MORE difference where YOU are located for a winter OCI.

I just do not like to thicken the oil even infinitesimally in the winter, for start-up flow reasons.
In fact, IF I ever have to 'top up' oil in the winter, I ONLY use the light, high VI 0W-20s.

I DO plan on adding a can of the Motor Oil Saver this coming summer though.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
IF I ever have to 'top up' oil in the winter, I ONLY use the light, high VI 0W-20s.

You live in PA just a little south of the arctic circle. LOL
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

Yes, but as you've stated, you agree to a point, and it actually makes even MORE difference where YOU are located for a winter OCI.

I just do not like to thicken the oil even infinitesimally in the winter, for start-up flow reasons.
In fact, IF I ever have to 'top up' oil in the winter, I ONLY use the light, high VI 0W-20s.

I DO plan on adding a can of the Motor Oil Saver this coming summer though.
wink.gif



I doubt Bio EP is to thicken your oil, not even infinitesimally.-RD

Viscosity 40C 33-37 cSt
" 100C 5-8 cSt
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
The ONLY reason I do not go with the amazon quarts of this product is because EVERY SINGLE TIME I've ordered it from them, it arrived in a large box with NO packing material what so ever, the cap was loose, and the bottle was leaking (yes, even with the foil seal mostly intact) all over the place.
frown.gif



I just received a quart from Amazon and it was packed well and had zero leaks... I guess I was lucky. LOL.
 
Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

Yes, but as you've stated, you agree to a point, and it actually makes even MORE difference where YOU are located for a winter OCI.

I just do not like to thicken the oil even infinitesimally in the winter, for start-up flow reasons.
In fact, IF I ever have to 'top up' oil in the winter, I ONLY use the light, high VI 0W-20s.

I DO plan on adding a can of the Motor Oil Saver this coming summer though.
wink.gif



I doubt Bio EP is to thicken your oil, not even infinitesimally.-RD

Viscosity 40C 33-37 cSt
" 100C 5-8 cSt


I believe he was referring to the suggestion of Clevy to perhaps use LM's Motor Oil Saver instead; which IIRC is an additive boost in some weight of carrier oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

Yes, but as you've stated, you agree to a point, and it actually makes even MORE difference where YOU are located for a winter OCI.

I just do not like to thicken the oil even infinitesimally in the winter, for start-up flow reasons.
In fact, IF I ever have to 'top up' oil in the winter, I ONLY use the light, high VI 0W-20s.

I DO plan on adding a can of the Motor Oil Saver this coming summer though.
wink.gif



I doubt Bio EP is to thicken your oil, not even infinitesimally.-RD

Viscosity 40C 33-37 cSt
" 100C 5-8 cSt


I believe he was referring to the suggestion of Clevy to perhaps use LM's Motor Oil Saver instead; which IIRC is an additive boost in some weight of carrier oil.


Yes, correct, and it is about the viscosity of the old VSOT additive, or about the consistency of frozen molasses.
wink.gif


(The low viscosity of the Bio Tech is the reason WHY I DO use it in the winter.)
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
The ONLY reason I do not go with the amazon quarts of this product is because EVERY SINGLE TIME I've ordered it from them, it arrived in a large box with NO packing material what so ever, the cap was loose, and the bottle was leaking (yes, even with the foil seal mostly intact) all over the place.
frown.gif



I just received a quart from Amazon and it was packed well and had zero leaks... I guess I was lucky. LOL.


Maybe I will give them another chance next time I buy the Bio Tech product.

Thanks.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
IF I ever have to 'top up' oil in the winter, I ONLY use the light, high VI 0W-20s.

You live in PA just a little south of the arctic circle. LOL


This engine does NOT 'like' the freezing cold weather (anything below ~35* F ambient) at start up.
31.gif

(MOST owners of these cars, and the C5 Vettes this engine was also in, store their cars over the winter if they live above the Mason- Dixon line, and YES, I know that the trucks they are in ARE used ALL YEAR 'ROUND, in ALL conditions.)

ANYTHING I can do to help oil get up to the valvetrain, and flowing into bearings quicker is a plus.

(I cannot use a block/coolant/oil pan heater where I currently live, so I do the best I can with low oil viscosity in the winter.)

I also know you are one of the many CATERHAM haters/dissers on here, so I guess I should expect that kind of response to anyone choosing a thinner viscosity oil in ANY conditions (maybe even inside of the "Arctic Circle" you so derisively mention?).
 
The high VI thing got me laughing i admit. If this engine doesn't like temps below 35f there is something wrong with it and you need a mechanic not a high VI 0w20.
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
you are one of the many CATERHAM haters/dissers on here

Haters/dissers? Little strong don't you think.
 
^That's a good point. An oil's cold flow properties at startup is generally more of an issue closer to 0 degrees, etc.

I would want to know more as to the symptoms of this engine driving the desire for easier startup protection. On the other hand, unless this oil/setup weren't providing solid oil pressure at operating temp what's the concern going 0w-20 in the winter?

Is this the Red Line and Sustina blend going on + the Lubegard? Is that the winter fill? If so, what's the point of 0w-40 Red Line? Their 5w-30 would be a better approach overall, IMO. Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.

Oh come on now that would be just too darn easy, you mean just open a bottle and pour it in? Heresy! LOL.
I agree 100%, it would be hard to go wrong with either of those along with PP, QSUD, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^That's a good point. An oil's cold flow properties at startup is generally more of an issue closer to 0 degrees, etc.

I would want to know more as to the symptoms of this engine driving the desire for easier startup protection. On the other hand, unless this oil/setup weren't providing solid oil pressure at operating temp what's the concern going 0w-20 in the winter?

Is this the Red Line and Sustina blend going on + the Lubegard? Is that the winter fill? If so, what's the point of 0w-40 Red Line? Their 5w-30 would be a better approach overall, IMO. Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.


See, but now we are almost 'baiting' me for an anti-CATERHAM type attack when I attempt to explain my reasons for going with this mix/blend, and then ALL of the high VI dissers pile on as usual.

This blend is ~ a 216 VI, with a fairly low MRV, and approximately a 3.1 HTHSV, which is fine for the winter in an LSx.
It also has decent; moly, boron, and calcium contents, and a fairly high starting TBN.

The Lube Gard is for near the middle to end of the OCI, just to boost the naturally depleted calcium, boron, and moly (and to counteract whatever fuel dilution there may be at that point.
SIMPLE AS THAT, I am done arguing with everyone on this subject.

NOTHING really wrong with this engine, just that I don't like the cold noises, and it is quiet MUCH sooner in the sub 35*F ambient temps with this high VI blend, but of course THAT will be critiqued/lambasted on here as well.
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.

Oh come on now that would be just too darn easy, you mean just open a bottle and pour it in? Heresy! LOL.
I agree 100%, it would be hard to go wrong with either of those along with PP, QSUD, etc.


So then tell me, WHY DO WE EVEN NEED THIS SITE if EVERYTHING/ALL SCENARIOS/CONDITIONS/ETC. can be fully covered/fine with just a few Sino Mart oils??

Just put that up in the home page header, and tell everyone to "move on".

Just think, then all of you can keep petitioning Helen to turn this into an extreme right wing political site so that all of you can OPENLY vent your vehemence/rage on what you REALLY want/need to.
crackmeup2.gif
 
Truth is you can provide almost every automobile engine with good lubrication with oils right off the retail shelf.
I trust the people who formulated the oil in the bottle a lot more than some guy on a forum no matter who he is.

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Just think, then all of you can keep petitioning Helen to turn this into an extreme right wing political site so that all of you can OPENLY vent your vehemence/rage on what you REALLY want/need to.


There is a lot more to this site than just blending oil and high VI 0w20.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
[

Just think, then all of you can keep petitioning Helen to turn this into an extreme right wing political site so that all of you can OPENLY vent your vehemence/rage on what you REALLY want/need to.
crackmeup2.gif



I'm just wondering. What does that comment have to do with the price of tea in China, or oil additives for that matter?-RD
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^That's a good point. An oil's cold flow properties at startup is generally more of an issue closer to 0 degrees, etc.

I would want to know more as to the symptoms of this engine driving the desire for easier startup protection. On the other hand, unless this oil/setup weren't providing solid oil pressure at operating temp what's the concern going 0w-20 in the winter?

Is this the Red Line and Sustina blend going on + the Lubegard? Is that the winter fill? If so, what's the point of 0w-40 Red Line? Their 5w-30 would be a better approach overall, IMO. Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.


See, but now we are almost 'baiting' me for an anti-CATERHAM type attack when I attempt to explain my reasons for going with this mix/blend, and then ALL of the high VI dissers pile on as usual.

This blend is ~ a 216 VI, with a fairly low MRV, and approximately a 3.1 HTHSV, which is fine for the winter in an LSx.
It also has decent; moly, boron, and calcium contents, and a fairly high starting TBN.

The Lube Gard is for near the middle to end of the OCI, just to boost the naturally depleted calcium, boron, and moly (and to counteract whatever fuel dilution there may be at that point.
SIMPLE AS THAT, I am done arguing with everyone on this subject.

NOTHING really wrong with this engine, just that I don't like the cold noises, and it is quiet MUCH sooner in the sub 35*F ambient temps with this high VI blend, but of course THAT will be critiqued/lambasted on here as well.
frown.gif



Speaking for myself, I was only trying to contribute to the discussion. I have no desire to bash your enthusiasm. If you have a blend or regimen that works then more power to you. Heck, I have a few random quarts of synthetic I'll be throwing together for my next interval. If your goal was a certain sort of properties end blend then +1.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^That's a good point. An oil's cold flow properties at startup is generally more of an issue closer to 0 degrees, etc.

I would want to know more as to the symptoms of this engine driving the desire for easier startup protection. On the other hand, unless this oil/setup weren't providing solid oil pressure at operating temp what's the concern going 0w-20 in the winter?

Is this the Red Line and Sustina blend going on + the Lubegard? Is that the winter fill? If so, what's the point of 0w-40 Red Line? Their 5w-30 would be a better approach overall, IMO. Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.


See, but now we are almost 'baiting' me for an anti-CATERHAM type attack when I attempt to explain my reasons for going with this mix/blend, and then ALL of the high VI dissers pile on as usual.

This blend is ~ a 216 VI, with a fairly low MRV, and approximately a 3.1 HTHSV, which is fine for the winter in an LSx.
It also has decent; moly, boron, and calcium contents, and a fairly high starting TBN.

The Lube Gard is for near the middle to end of the OCI, just to boost the naturally depleted calcium, boron, and moly (and to counteract whatever fuel dilution there may be at that point.
SIMPLE AS THAT, I am done arguing with everyone on this subject.

NOTHING really wrong with this engine, just that I don't like the cold noises, and it is quiet MUCH sooner in the sub 35*F ambient temps with this high VI blend, but of course THAT will be critiqued/lambasted on here as well.
frown.gif



Speaking for myself, I was only trying to contribute to the discussion. I have no desire to bash your enthusiasm. If you have a blend or regimen that works then more power to you. Heck, I have a few random quarts of synthetic I'll be throwing together for my next interval. If your goal was a certain sort of properties end blend then +1.
thumbsup2.gif



Thank you for understanding, and yes, maybe I was a little too harsh on you in particular, with my response.
frown.gif


But others seem to have a need to boost their egos/self importance by putting others down/being snide towards them for their oil/lube choices, and decisions, even though I NEVER ONCE stated that this was what EVERYONE (OR EVEN ANYONE else) should do, or needs to do (just what I do for MY situation, and why I do it).
wink.gif


BTW; Yes, my oil pressure at winter cold start up idle is >60 psi with this high VI, somewhat thin blend, and it is still >40 psi at very hot winter idle, so a 3.3 to 3.5 (or greater) HTHSV, low VI, 'off the Sino Mart shelf' oil (OR even the 3.7 HTHSV RL 5W-30) IS way too thick for my app in winter!!
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^That's a good point. An oil's cold flow properties at startup is generally more of an issue closer to 0 degrees, etc.

I would want to know more as to the symptoms of this engine driving the desire for easier startup protection. On the other hand, unless this oil/setup weren't providing solid oil pressure at operating temp what's the concern going 0w-20 in the winter?

Is this the Red Line and Sustina blend going on + the Lubegard? Is that the winter fill? If so, what's the point of 0w-40 Red Line? Their 5w-30 would be a better approach overall, IMO. Heck, even Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 or Mobil1's AFE 0w-30 would be great in the winter.
21.gif
49.gif
On their own, let alone adding Lubegard.


See, but now we are almost 'baiting' me for an anti-CATERHAM type attack when I attempt to explain my reasons for going with this mix/blend, and then ALL of the high VI dissers pile on as usual.

This blend is ~ a 216 VI, with a fairly low MRV, and approximately a 3.1 HTHSV, which is fine for the winter in an LSx.
It also has decent; moly, boron, and calcium contents, and a fairly high starting TBN.

The Lube Gard is for near the middle to end of the OCI, just to boost the naturally depleted calcium, boron, and moly (and to counteract whatever fuel dilution there may be at that point.
SIMPLE AS THAT, I am done arguing with everyone on this subject.

NOTHING really wrong with this engine, just that I don't like the cold noises, and it is quiet MUCH sooner in the sub 35*F ambient temps with this high VI blend, but of course THAT will be critiqued/lambasted on here as well.
frown.gif



Speaking for myself, I was only trying to contribute to the discussion. I have no desire to bash your enthusiasm. If you have a blend or regimen that works then more power to you. Heck, I have a few random quarts of synthetic I'll be throwing together for my next interval. If your goal was a certain sort of properties end blend then +1.
thumbsup2.gif



Thank you for understanding, and yes, maybe I was a little too harsh on you in particular, with my response.
frown.gif


But others seem to have a need to boost their egos/self importance by putting others down/being snide towards them for their oil/lube choices, and decisions, even though I NEVER ONCE stated that this was what EVERYONE (OR EVEN ANYONE else) should do, or needs to do (just what I do for MY situation, and why I do it).
wink.gif


BTW; Yes, my oil pressure at winter cold start up idle is >60 psi with this high VI, somewhat thin blend, and it is still >40 psi at very hot winter idle, so a 3.3 to 3.5 (or greater) HTHSV, low VI, 'off the Sino Mart shelf' oil (OR even the 3.7 HTHSV RL 5W-30) IS way too thick for my app in winter!!


Nice. Hey, ever thought of posting up some UOAs of that winter blend when you go to change it out? I'd be interested in looking at them for fun. TBN if possible.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: johnachak
It doesn't show SN oil compatibility. It lists many others but SN is conspicuously missing. I wouldn't consider adding anything to my oil.


I sent an e-mail to LubeGard asking about compatibility with SN oils and several other things, and received a prompt and concise answer today. Regarding the SN compatibility:
"Thank you for contacting us!
Lubegard Bio-Tech Engine Oil Protectant is fully compatible with motor oils with the API SN rating."
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top