Best method for repairing damaged wires?

[Lolvoguy]

From a year of storage, one of my cars has developed a few chew marks from some mice.

As a result, I've found some new wire to splice into place, but I'm wondering it anyone has used a product similar to this

http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/elektralink/elektralink_sealed_solder_splice_kits.php

seems to be a nice compromise b/t soldering and crimping

thanks in advance

 

[HangFire]

Interesting. I guess the only trick is knowing when the solder is really melted before burning up the surrounding insulation.

 

[spackard]

Might be tough to use in the confines of an auto. Always have to be careful what else you're bathing with hot air besides the heat shrink tubing.

 

[AandPDan]

I've just soldered and heat-shrinked wires.

That's not how I'd make the splice though, I cross the wires first then twist them together so that there is a solid mechanical connection.

 

[airbatica]

In the aviation world, we use these.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/edmo4363884.php

Crimp the wires into both ends of the barrel, then slide the sleeve over and hit it with a heat gun. No worrying if the solder melts like the ones posted above.

 

[Smcatub]

I'd just crimp them. IMO crimps are just as good as solder joints, and it's easier to make a good crimp joint than it is to make a good solder joint. It can be a PITA to make a good solder joint with wires on the car.

If I tried using something like that little torch in my car I'd wind up lighting it on fire.

I'd use plain 'ol RadioShack butt splices or, if in a weather-exposed area, thses: http://www.parts-express.com/express-seal-%2816-14%29-weatherproof-butt-splice-connector-10-pcs--095-912

 

[djb]

The solder-in-shrink-tube product doesn't fix the problems with soldering. Soldering creates a rigid point on the wire, compounded by solder wicking up the strands. The flux required to clean the metal surface leaves a corrosive residue, and is difficult to clean. And most solder dissolves into the metal, leaving a stress point just where the corrosive flux and rigid solder mass are.

Crimping, without added solder, is the only approved connection method in many production environments.

That said, the neatest and most professional-looking repair is often soldering and heat-shrink tubing.

BTW, twisting the wires together might make soldering easier, but won't significantly improve the mechanical strength of a good soldered joint.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: djb
The flux required to clean the metal surface leaves a corrosive residue, and is difficult to clean.

USE only rosin core is for electronics and wire, it is non corrosive. Acid core will corrode wires.

If you solder properly it wont wick far up the wire, thats a sign of too much heat.

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Expert-Advice/tech-tips/rosin-and-acid-core-solders.aspx

 

[Merkava_4]

I use uninsulated butt splice connectors and heat shrink tubing.

 

[Kiwi_ME]

Originally Posted By: djb
The solder-in-shrink-tube product doesn't fix the problems with soldering. Soldering creates a rigid point on the wire, compounded by solder wicking up the strands. The flux required to clean the metal surface leaves a corrosive residue, and is difficult to clean. And most solder dissolves into the metal, leaving a stress point just where the corrosive flux and rigid solder mass are.

Crimping, without added solder, is the only approved connection method in many production environments.

That said, the neatest and most professional-looking repair is often soldering and heat-shrink tubing.

BTW, twisting the wires together might make soldering easier, but won't significantly improve the mechanical strength of a good soldered joint.

Best answer ...

 

[another Todd]

You can also buy crimp connectors with heat shrink attached which work well, similar to the aviation ones linked above. Crimp them, then heat shrink. Walmart has them. Not a big fan of solder for some of the issues mentioned.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: another Todd
You can also buy crimp connectors with heat shrink attached which work well, similar to the aviation ones linked above. Crimp them, then heat shrink. Walmart has them. Not a big fan of solder for some of the issues mentioned.



We typically use them too, but with the addition of using a ratcheting crimping tool LIKE THIS. Mine is actually a MATCO tool and U.L. 489 approved. It also does strain relief type connectors too.

 

[Trav]

Eric you bring up a good point. I also use them but the OP should be aware that to use these connectors with success you need the tool like yours or the ones others are using not just a pair of vise grips or pliers.
I have a simple one from Klein. These 2 do both insulated and non insulated connectors.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-9-3-4-in-Crimping-Tool-1005SEN/100352095

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Journeyman-Crimping-Cutting-Tool-J1005/100647831

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: djb
The solder-in-shrink-tube product doesn't fix the problems with soldering. Soldering creates a rigid point on the wire, compounded by solder wicking up the strands. The flux required to clean the metal surface leaves a corrosive residue, and is difficult to clean. And most solder dissolves into the metal, leaving a stress point just where the corrosive flux and rigid solder mass are.

Crimping, without added solder, is the only approved connection method in many production environments.

That said, the neatest and most professional-looking repair is often soldering and heat-shrink tubing.

BTW, twisting the wires together might make soldering easier, but won't significantly improve the mechanical strength of a good soldered joint.
Plumbing solder uses acid "flux" in it, electronic solder like Kester or "Multicore" does not. The boating industry has kicked around the crimp vs solder question for years...the conclusion seems to be do BOTH.