ltslimjim
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Originally Posted By: zpinch
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
What the heck, let's just throw a by-pass system on there; swap him over the Red Line racing 0w-10 for maximum fuel savings and call it a day until we need to replace the cat. *COUGH* ..or engine? *COUGH*
lol. Really this run was probably done at 18k or so if I had to guess because 1 quart of virgin added around that time skews the final numbers quite a bit at least wrt TBN.
Agreed, that qt right before the uoa is going to skew the results alot; 2hat is the sump capacity on that 1.5L? Looking at the iron ppm after 14k mark, the number goes up alot more, even with 25% or more of new oil increase. I think 15k would b3 a good number to shoot for, scrap the uoa.
I believe it's a 3.8 Q sump, but he just adds a full 4 at the start of a new OCI. I think 15k might be too conservative. Amsoil ASM 0w-20 made it 1 year/14k no problem with no top-off. Honestly, I think most API-SN full synthetic in his particular vehicle/app will make 15k or 1 year in the same types of service already seen with no problems. The question is 'how well' and perhaps 'how much longer' could it go beyond that.
#UOAs \o/
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
So in my application it would be better to add oil say a 1/4-1/2 quart at at time rather than wait until it is down a full quart at 7500 miles while changing at 10000 miles?
Definitely. When you can add 8 ounces to stay topped off, why not? It's fresh additives and clean oil. It doesn't make it useless by volume comparison, but rather keeps what is already in the sump 'overall' from being overworked prematurely. Now, it's not super drastic per se but has an accumulative effect over time by simply having less volume handling the interval than when you started/what the sumps capacity is.
The tired, perhaps depleting additives remaining in the sump when you add the missing quart all at once at 7.5k could have been helping back at say 4,000 or w/e mileage you reach where you confirm it's 1/4 or more from full on the diptstick. (in cases where the fill/add mark vs full is generally 1/2 - 1 quart difference; depending on your vehicle).
Basically, you stretch the interval; i.e. the oil itself for what is not burned off and still add back that missing quart burned off throughout the change, but you get more use out of it than simply 'being topped off' for the final 2.5k.
So, think of it in terms of what is best for the 'oil' change and not simply the engine. Yes, it will appreciate getting topped off and probably didn't see too many adverse affects being down say 1/2 a quart. Yet, the oil in there which needs to make it for the duration of the OCI/ODI will mind the extra work. Granted, this is not catastrophic or too bad in of itself, but rather being more proactive to make extended intervals turn out more consistent and, IMO, probably more positive. (even if minimally measurable without side by side comparisons to give as examples)
Remember, as long as oil isn't abused to the point it shears out of grade/viscosity; or perhaps overloaded with crud to start an interval/was cleaning a seriously dirty engine etc, driven extremely short-trips and cold-starts without getting up to full operating temp what else condemns the OCI? Well, it gets overworked from too many contaminants, combustion by-products and our basic spin-on/cartridge oil filters simply can't get it back to a state of clean once it is doing what it itself is supposed to do by formulation: Suspend contaminants, particulates, so that those things do not directly adhere to the intervals of the engine and either stay behind or worse begin to cause increased where at critical moving parts.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
What the heck, let's just throw a by-pass system on there; swap him over the Red Line racing 0w-10 for maximum fuel savings and call it a day until we need to replace the cat. *COUGH* ..or engine? *COUGH*
lol. Really this run was probably done at 18k or so if I had to guess because 1 quart of virgin added around that time skews the final numbers quite a bit at least wrt TBN.
Agreed, that qt right before the uoa is going to skew the results alot; 2hat is the sump capacity on that 1.5L? Looking at the iron ppm after 14k mark, the number goes up alot more, even with 25% or more of new oil increase. I think 15k would b3 a good number to shoot for, scrap the uoa.
I believe it's a 3.8 Q sump, but he just adds a full 4 at the start of a new OCI. I think 15k might be too conservative. Amsoil ASM 0w-20 made it 1 year/14k no problem with no top-off. Honestly, I think most API-SN full synthetic in his particular vehicle/app will make 15k or 1 year in the same types of service already seen with no problems. The question is 'how well' and perhaps 'how much longer' could it go beyond that.
#UOAs \o/
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
So in my application it would be better to add oil say a 1/4-1/2 quart at at time rather than wait until it is down a full quart at 7500 miles while changing at 10000 miles?
Definitely. When you can add 8 ounces to stay topped off, why not? It's fresh additives and clean oil. It doesn't make it useless by volume comparison, but rather keeps what is already in the sump 'overall' from being overworked prematurely. Now, it's not super drastic per se but has an accumulative effect over time by simply having less volume handling the interval than when you started/what the sumps capacity is.
The tired, perhaps depleting additives remaining in the sump when you add the missing quart all at once at 7.5k could have been helping back at say 4,000 or w/e mileage you reach where you confirm it's 1/4 or more from full on the diptstick. (in cases where the fill/add mark vs full is generally 1/2 - 1 quart difference; depending on your vehicle).
Basically, you stretch the interval; i.e. the oil itself for what is not burned off and still add back that missing quart burned off throughout the change, but you get more use out of it than simply 'being topped off' for the final 2.5k.
So, think of it in terms of what is best for the 'oil' change and not simply the engine. Yes, it will appreciate getting topped off and probably didn't see too many adverse affects being down say 1/2 a quart. Yet, the oil in there which needs to make it for the duration of the OCI/ODI will mind the extra work. Granted, this is not catastrophic or too bad in of itself, but rather being more proactive to make extended intervals turn out more consistent and, IMO, probably more positive. (even if minimally measurable without side by side comparisons to give as examples)
Remember, as long as oil isn't abused to the point it shears out of grade/viscosity; or perhaps overloaded with crud to start an interval/was cleaning a seriously dirty engine etc, driven extremely short-trips and cold-starts without getting up to full operating temp what else condemns the OCI? Well, it gets overworked from too many contaminants, combustion by-products and our basic spin-on/cartridge oil filters simply can't get it back to a state of clean once it is doing what it itself is supposed to do by formulation: Suspend contaminants, particulates, so that those things do not directly adhere to the intervals of the engine and either stay behind or worse begin to cause increased where at critical moving parts.
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