Do I use FL1A or FL1HD?

[TallPaul]

1997 Ford "F53 Stripped Chassis" Class A Motorhome with a 460 (7.5L) V8. The manual says to use FL1A in one place and FL1HP in another. CSK website actually lists the F53 Stripped Chassis (many parts stores don't) and says to get FL1HP, but also says can use Fram PH8A. Now I know PH8A is a FL1A.

My 1990 Cutaway E350 Class C motorhome had the same engine and took FL1A (said FL1HP for severe service) and I always ran FL1A cross ref. Now the Class A motorhome gets no more oil pressure than the Class C did (actually it gets a tad less: 70 cold vs 75 cold on the Class C) and so I don't think the higher burst pressure of the HD filter is needed (Wix gives about double the burst for the FL1HD version than the FL1A version). Wix also shows nominal micron rating of around 29 for the FL1HP version vs around 19 0r 20 for the FL1A version. Do you think they just want the freer filter flow of the higher micron rating?

Confused? Am running a Maxlife FL1A version now. Can not bulging or anything.

 

[Gary Allan]

Good question

 

[Filter guy]

Yep... good question.

Probably go with more flow and higher burst would be my guess.


As the FL1HD is not as readily available, that may be why the FL1A is listed. Or it could be the proof readers fault for not catching the mistake and sticking with the FL1HD where FL1A is shown. There are any number of reasons why things like that happen. But you may never get the same answer twice if you ask.

 

[unDummy]

Either will work fine. Is there room for an FL299?

What change interval are you planning? oil weight and brand/type?

 

[TallPaul]

I was going to run the FL299 version which is similar burst to FL1A, but has the freer microns of the FL1HD. I really can't imagine that I need the extra burst. FL299 version should fit, but may have to shave off 3/8 inch from the radiator shroud in that location--just for added clearance to be safe.

Ha ha, when I got the motorhome it had a PH8A orange can of death mounted on it. I saved it from certain destruction!

I probably can get the Purolator version of the HD. If the bypass is in the threaded end (which it is remarkably for the Purolator L40017 (FL299)) it would be a good bet. Probably cheaper with Purolator, or maybe the Wix. I guess I will call around for Wix/ NAPA Gold in the HD first.

There are other discrepencies in the manual, such as saying no motorhomes come with synthetic axle lube, vs another place says '94 and newer do. Well there is a tag on my axle cover that specifically says it has synthetic lube, so that one is solved.

EDIT: Now that unDummy has posted, I am inclined to run the non-HD filter.

I am running a mixture of 10w30s right now for an initial 1000 mile flush using 4 qts 80 cent Citgo Ultralife and 2 quarts $5 Redline.

I was running 5000+ mile intervals on the Class C motorhome (9500 lb dry wt). This motorhome is 13000 lb dry, so a bit more to the severe service side of things, but still not towing. I will shoot for 5000+ mile OCIs.

This motorhome calls for HDEO. I added 4 ounces of Bruce381's PCMO additive to boost zddp to around 1400 ppm. I discussed with Bruce and he felt the HDEO was to get higher antiwear, as it is not a diesel. He did recommend oil analysis to verify my mix could go the distance.

10w30 looks like it will suffice. I just installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge (Autogauge by Autometer--nice lighting as have on in the pickup) last night and so only have the cold pressure, which is about 70 psi. I am guessing about 55 to 60 hot at speed. (Other motorhome was 75 cold, 60-65 hot, and 30-40 idle.) I will take it for a run Saturday to see what the oil pressure is hot.

I am planning to use Maxlife next, but the Motorcraft HDEO 10w30 CI4/SL on the shelf at Murrays for only about $2.29 a quart (yes, 10w30 HDEO in quarts) looks like a super deal. Hmmmm, maybe I should just stock up on that and sell off more of my PCEO?

Okay, I am way off filters, but wanted to answer unDummy's questions and they do somewhat relate to the filter.

One last thing: I had to special order the nylon tubing for the oil pressure gauge. The gauges and kits normally are 6 feet of tubing, but I needed about 10 feet. Thankfully Autometer has a 12 foot kit and Detroit Speed Shops got it for me ovenight.

[ September 07, 2006, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]

 

[Filter guy]

What does the owner manual "recommend" in the section where it lists the oils and filters, etc to use?

I would suspect there in lies your answer. As the rest of the manual is just the reprint from the Lincoln Continental...

 

[TallPaul]

I'll double check but pretty sure the FL1HD and HDEO oil.

 

[unDummy]

A full flow dual remote mount is another option. Use both the FL1a and the FL1hp

HDEO oil, ~5k OCIs, make filter choice irrelevant.
I'd use the bigger filter simple because of the increased oil capacity.

Stock up on the 10w30 HDEO. I myself would use a full synthetic, or do a comparison run if you want to collect some UOAs.

The Baldwin B7311-MPG has a pretty low micron rating also. But, it might be too expensive for 5k OCI's. And, Donaldson syntec media is in the P554407.

I really don't care for micron ratings of full flow filters. Your OCI is low enough not to worry about it. And, if you want filtration, a bypass filter is the best way to go.

Do you have an oil temp gauge?

 

[TallPaul]

No oil temp gauge, but there is an oil cooler of some sort.

The Motorcraft site specifies FL1HP for F250, F350, and F SuperDuty (no F53 stripped listing).

But then I called my local Ford dealer and they had two listings for F53 Stripped Chassis 7.5L: FL1A and FL1HD.

So the conclusion I draw is you can go either way. I will run the FL299 larger version of the FL1A if it fits.

You don't have to tell me twice to stock up on oil. Hee hee, Murrays here I come. Gonna clean them out of 10w30. Haaaa haaaa haaaa

This is going to be fun.

Haven't bought oil in a long while now,

 

[Gary Allan]

Come on, TallPaul, get an oil and trans temp gauge and have more stuff to keep you entertained while driving.

Some of the older 460's had big coolant exchangers that I've seen on ebay. They were kinda shaped like a box with radiator bibs on them. Never had too much interest in them due to the use of the main radiator hose for coolant hose. That would mean buying that expensive tubing that street rodders use if you can't find a flex hose of the right length.

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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If nothing else it gives me an extra 26 feet of area to worry about coolant leaks.

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What more can one ask for

 

[TallPaul]

No temp gauge. If oil temp is issue I should see the pressure drop with lower viscosity. Yes I do like gauges, but probably would do better to add an idiot light to the oil pressure line. There is, however, another punchout location in the dash for another 2" gauge. Hmmm......

Hey, this motorhome has heater hose running all the way to the back, about a 26 foot run as there is a heat exchanger in teh rear bedroom that can be turned on in cool weather while you are driving and, on their way back, the hoses stop at the hot water tank so that you have hot water without running the LP water heater on the road. If nothing else it gives me an extra 26 feet of area to worry about coolant leaks.