Mobil1 AFE 0w-20---21,000 miles---07 Fit Sport

[ltslimjim]

http://i.imgur.com/7EGdala.jpg

Code:
OIL MOBIL1 AFE 0w-20

MILES IN USE 21,301

MILES ON UNIT 211,910

SAMPLE TAKEN 08/24/14

Make Up Oil Added 1 qt



ALUMINUM 5

CHROMIUM 2

IRON 30

COPPER 2

LEAD 1

TIN 4

MOLYBDENUM 68

NICKEL 1

MANGANESE 1

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 0

POTASSIUM 3

BORON 32

SILICON 12

SODIUM 11

CALCIUM 1012

MAGNESIUM 738

PHOSPHORUS 567

ZINC 665

BARIUM 0



SUS VIS 210ºF 52.9

cSt @ 100ºC 8.14

FLASHPOINT ºF 390

FUEL%
ANTIFREEZE% 0.0

WATER% 0.0

INSOLUBLES% 0.4

TBN 2.4

 

[gonefishing]

Nice!

I'm assuming this was a 1 year OCI?

 

[Bebop367]

Wow...what an engine!

Were previous UOA using M 0w-20?

 

[Joel_MD]

Wow, looks like you're doing something right! Good engine and good oil.

Just think of the money you're saving compared to those people bring their cars to Jiffy Lube every 3k miles!

 

[ltslimjim]

Yes, I didn't link the other threads but I have created/posted this application for my bro-in-law before (as you can see the previous UOA results from before, the first was Amsoil ASM 0w-20 before it was labeled SSO and the rest all AFE 0w-20; IIRC).

He has a nice engine. He doesn't do a ton of short trips either. I'm trying to get him to venture out to other synthetics for the same mileage or 1 year, but not dice.

PS: Any thoughts on if he should change oil filter at say 10k or 12.5k? He is using a Mobil1 oil filter for the full duration still. My suggestion was to change the filter at say 10k miles, top off the oil and that way he can repeatedly get 1 year/20k no sweat without worry of filter capacity being reached; though not likely if the engine is fairly clean anyway just a thought about more headroom for the life of the vehicle from here on.

NOTE: This was API-SN in case anyone wanted confirmation.

 

[wemay]

Astounding!

 

[Joel_MD]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
PS: Any thoughts on if he should change oil filter at say 10k or 12.5k? He is using a Mobil1 oil filter for the full duration still. My suggestion was to change the filter at say 10k miles, top off the oil and that way he can repeatedly get 1 year/20k no sweat without worry of filter capacity being reached; though not likely if the engine is fairly clean anyway just a thought about more headroom for the life of the vehicle from here on.

I would change the oil filter at no more than 10k miles if it was my car. On my 2007 diesel pickup I am shooting for ~18k miles OCI, and I change the filter at about half of that interval.

 

[tomcat27]

should not need to change the filter. just for fun, you could cut one open - but I would expect that it would be fine

 

[Turk]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27
should not need to change the filter. just for fun, you could cut one open - but I would expect that it would be fine



Right, especially since the Insolubles are still low...

 

[DemoFly]

Pointless without TAN.

A quality synthetic filter is fine for the entire OCI in this instance.

 

[gonefishing]

Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Pointless without TAN.

A quality synthetic filter is fine for the entire OCI in this instance.


The trick with TAN would be what would it tell us at this point with wear levels looking this good? I would about guarantee that the TAN levels are higher then the TBN at this point. It seems the PAO base stocks that are in M1 start high and don't take long to cross TBN. My last UOA on my Sierra, TBN was 3.8 and TAN was 6.3 with only 7,354 miles. Typically the drop in TBN slows with the length of the OCI. In my case a TBN of 3.8 tells me there is still life left in the oil but it has crossed TAN. How high can TAN go with PAO base stocks and is the TBN/TAN condemnation point even relevant with these base stocks?

 

[ltslimjim]

I believe there have been discussions in the past wrt VOA revealing the base TAN of PAO oils. More specifically ones such as Amsoil; not so much M1 line as seen here. AFAIK?

As long as the TBN method used is above the minimum condemnation point and everything else looks good the TAN only gives more information and in non-category III or II oils(more so) it's not in of itself condemning unless way out of line; therefore a good idea to change the oil. The rest of the report gives more than enough information to say this OCI was just fine.

If wear metals or other fluid properties had changed more I'd want to see the TAN or if thinking of extending. The TBN is probably mostly depleted and TAN is probably at a glowing number for sure, but we can't put a number on it without the test and even so we'd need to compare it to virgin analysis. Then, you'd weigh that information against the rest of the test results. This is pretty much why I say for the mileage change the oil filter and top off with the extra quart of oil since generally he buys an extra quart in the 5+ Q jugs anyway. It's a way of creating more headroom and I think you can change the filter on this car from the top when cold; minimal loss and maybe 1/2 quart top-off if it drained back overnight.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

tHE POWER VETEC a7 DONT DO AS WELL ON OIL AS THIS PREVIOUS GEN DESIGN.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Yes, I didn't link the other threads but I have created/posted this application for my bro-in-law before (as you can see the previous UOA results from before, the first was Amsoil ASM 0w-20 before it was labeled SSO and the rest all AFE 0w-20; IIRC).

He has a nice engine. He doesn't do a ton of short trips either. I'm trying to get him to venture out to other synthetics for the same mileage or 1 year, but not dice.

PS: Any thoughts on if he should change oil filter at say 10k or 12.5k? He is using a Mobil1 oil filter for the full duration still. My suggestion was to change the filter at say 10k miles, top off the oil and that way he can repeatedly get 1 year/20k no sweat without worry of filter capacity being reached; though not likely if the engine is fairly clean anyway just a thought about more headroom for the life of the vehicle from here on.

NOTE: This was API-SN in case anyone wanted confirmation.

No reason to try other brands when M1 0W20 shows this result. M1 0W20 is this good (TBN 2.4) after 21k miles who needs M1 EP ?

No need to change oil filter half way, actually keeping the oil filter for the full 20+k miles OCI is better because it's more efficient as miles increased. There is little debris in a clean engine to filter as long as the air filter is in good shape.

The last time I changed the oil and filter in my E430 the cartridge filter was in great shape after 23k miles(2 OCI's of 11-12k miles), I thought about keeping it in for another OCI but I have many filters in my stash so I changed it.

 

[DemoFly]

Originally Posted By: gonefishing
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Pointless without TAN.

A quality synthetic filter is fine for the entire OCI in this instance.


The trick with TAN would be what would it tell us at this point with wear levels looking this good? I would about guarantee that the TAN levels are higher then the TBN at this point. It seems the PAO base stocks that are in M1 start high and don't take long to cross TBN. My last UOA on my Sierra, TBN was 3.8 and TAN was 6.3 with only 7,354 miles. Typically the drop in TBN slows with the length of the OCI. In my case a TBN of 3.8 tells me there is still life left in the oil but it has crossed TAN. How high can TAN go with PAO base stocks and is the TBN/TAN condemnation point even relevant with these base stocks?

Even oxidized and sludge-ing oil lubricates well, so wear metals aren't enough to ensure a lube is fit for service.

As for PAO TAN, I am not sure. Someone else will have to chime in on that. However you are right, PAO TANs are higher.

 

[deven]

Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Originally Posted By: gonefishing
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Pointless without TAN.

A quality synthetic filter is fine for the entire OCI in this instance.


The trick with TAN would be what would it tell us at this point with wear levels looking this good? I would about guarantee that the TAN levels are higher then the TBN at this point. It seems the PAO base stocks that are in M1 start high and don't take long to cross TBN. My last UOA on my Sierra, TBN was 3.8 and TAN was 6.3 with only 7,354 miles. Typically the drop in TBN slows with the length of the OCI. In my case a TBN of 3.8 tells me there is still life left in the oil but it has crossed TAN. How high can TAN go with PAO base stocks and is the TBN/TAN condemnation point even relevant with these base stocks?

Even oxidized and sludge-ing oil lubricates well, so wear metals aren't enough to ensure a lube is fit for service.

As for PAO TAN, I am not sure. Someone else will have to chime in on that. However you are right, PAO TANs are higher.

I like the way you think and your reasoning.

 

[webfors]

Excellent report! Strong ending TBN, flash, viscosity, insols. Only 1 quart of makeup in 21k miles!

I would love to see under the valve cover. Please pull and post pics at your earliest convenience

 

[CarbonSteel]

The starting TAN for M1 AFE 0W-20 is 2.8 (I did a VOA on regular M1 5W-20 and it was 2.9).

Would be nice to see what the TAN was in this UOA, but with wear metals as low as this, it is really pointless. There have been arguments up and down the forum about when TAN crosses TBN the oil should be replaced, but I have not seen wear go up when TAN crosses TBN and I would opine it has to be far above TBN to matter.

OP - nice run of AFE!

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Yes, I didn't link the other threads but I have created/posted this application for my bro-in-law before (as you can see the previous UOA results from before, the first was Amsoil ASM 0w-20 before it was labeled SSO and the rest all AFE 0w-20; IIRC).

He has a nice engine. He doesn't do a ton of short trips either. I'm trying to get him to venture out to other synthetics for the same mileage or 1 year, but not dice.

PS: Any thoughts on if he should change oil filter at say 10k or 12.5k? He is using a Mobil1 oil filter for the full duration still. My suggestion was to change the filter at say 10k miles, top off the oil and that way he can repeatedly get 1 year/20k no sweat without worry of filter capacity being reached; though not likely if the engine is fairly clean anyway just a thought about more headroom for the life of the vehicle from here on.

NOTE: This was API-SN in case anyone wanted confirmation.

No reason to try other brands when M1 0W20 shows this result. M1 0W20 is this good (TBN 2.4) after 21k miles who needs M1 EP ?

No need to change oil filter half way, actually keeping the oil filter for the full 20+k miles OCI is better because it's more efficient as miles increased. There is little debris in a clean engine to filter as long as the air filter is in good shape.

The last time I changed the oil and filter in my E430 the cartridge filter was in great shape after 23k miles(2 OCI's of 11-12k miles), I thought about keeping it in for another OCI but I have many filters in my stash so I changed it.



Exactly.

I'm no fan of M1 but with data like this only a fool would change brands just gor change sake.
23000 miles is enough to make some here brains melt.
Kinda blows the 3000 mile interval out of the water doesn't it b
As far as filter goes there's no problem running a top tier filter the whole interval. I use tough guards for up to 30000kms now and upon dissection there's nothing saying I'm overdoing it.
The media isn't so loaded that I feel it's going into bypass,in fact if I didn't know there was 30000kms on the filter I would never guess it.

 

[tig1]

Makes my 10K OCIs on 0-20AFE look wimpy!