Rotella full synth 5w-40
- Thread starter daz
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Originally Posted By: daz
Yeah, but only the T6 is JSMO rated. The castrol IS bike oil so it's got all the proper ratings. I also just found that i can get 6 quarts of the FULL synth, even better, for $44 shipped plus tax. So i think i found my oil.
All of the Rotella oil I find meet JASO.
Yeah, but only the T6 is JSMO rated. The castrol IS bike oil so it's got all the proper ratings. I also just found that i can get 6 quarts of the FULL synth, even better, for $44 shipped plus tax. So i think i found my oil.
All of the Rotella oil I find meet JASO.
A 15W40 would probably work well for you but the T6 should be fine also.
I have run the T6 5W40 several times in my ST1100 with 8,000 mile OCIs and the UOA results have been very good. The ST is a shared sump water-cooled V4.
The typical SUS vis at 210F was 65.9 for the T6, 66.0 for Mobil Delvac 15W40, and 67.7 for Super Tech 15w40. All of them ran for about 8,000 miles and all had similar wear metals.
Rick
I have run the T6 5W40 several times in my ST1100 with 8,000 mile OCIs and the UOA results have been very good. The ST is a shared sump water-cooled V4.
The typical SUS vis at 210F was 65.9 for the T6, 66.0 for Mobil Delvac 15W40, and 67.7 for Super Tech 15w40. All of them ran for about 8,000 miles and all had similar wear metals.
Rick
Originally Posted By: redbone3
Wet clutches are picky about oil.
I don't agree because technically speaking oil can not defeat a wet
clutch in good working order... what is confusing the issue is the
fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a point in their life
and start to slip... no one complains about clutch slip when the bike
is new... but on about the 27K to 57K range is when containments may
build up to point where the clutch begins to loose its grip... this is
usually discovered by the owner during WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle
like at a track day... in error one can blame the oil but its really
the contaminants on the clutch plates...
Wet clutches are picky about oil.
I don't agree because technically speaking oil can not defeat a wet
clutch in good working order... what is confusing the issue is the
fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a point in their life
and start to slip... no one complains about clutch slip when the bike
is new... but on about the 27K to 57K range is when containments may
build up to point where the clutch begins to loose its grip... this is
usually discovered by the owner during WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle
like at a track day... in error one can blame the oil but its really
the contaminants on the clutch plates...
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Because your bike is a shared sump a 5w-40 with get sheared into water in shirt order.
Water has the viscosity of 1 cSt... so your 5w-40 got sheared to 1???
Because your bike is a shared sump a 5w-40 with get sheared into water in shirt order.
Water has the viscosity of 1 cSt... so your 5w-40 got sheared to 1???
How about a mix 50% of 15-40 Rotella Dino and T6 5-40. That would be close to a 10w40 semi Syn wouldn't it?
T6 rotella is a good choice from my experience. I wish it was more shear stable though. After about 1k mi my left foot tells me it's not much of a 40wt, the gear clunk becomes more pronounced. When I switched to this oil, from 10w50 yamalube, my 04 R1 brakes traction at over 110mph, and overall "good feeling" with the throttle, gears and all. and I saw a guy post uoa (1500mi i think) with good wear indicators (though not a 40wt oil anymore). I think the wet clutch has to be the culprit for shearing.I'm ok with runny snot oil as long as it does it's job.
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
...I think the wet clutch has to be the culprit for shearing.
If it's in your R1, I'd expect it's the gearbox. That's what the experts here seem to say anyway, that constant mesh transmissions are a big cause of oil shearing out of grade.
No idea if the OP's Thunderbird is a shared sump bike or not, but if it were, I'd probably choose a different oil. I've used T6 in shared sump bikes, and it worked out OK. But there are likely better choices--depending on your oil change interval, budget, etc.
...I think the wet clutch has to be the culprit for shearing.
If it's in your R1, I'd expect it's the gearbox. That's what the experts here seem to say anyway, that constant mesh transmissions are a big cause of oil shearing out of grade.
No idea if the OP's Thunderbird is a shared sump bike or not, but if it were, I'd probably choose a different oil. I've used T6 in shared sump bikes, and it worked out OK. But there are likely better choices--depending on your oil change interval, budget, etc.
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Originally Posted By: daz
Or would the viscosity be too un-protective and over ride the benefit of flow on cold starts?
There's a common misconception that a 5W40 for example is thinner when cold (5 grade) and thickens when hot (40 grade). Were you thinking that? It's not true.
Oil is thicker when cold. The difference is more pronounced in a straight 40 grade. Less so in 15W40, even less in 10W40, and so on. You can find viscosity specs for these oils at different temperatures elsewhere on the site--front page should lead you there.
Or would the viscosity be too un-protective and over ride the benefit of flow on cold starts?
There's a common misconception that a 5W40 for example is thinner when cold (5 grade) and thickens when hot (40 grade). Were you thinking that? It's not true.
Oil is thicker when cold. The difference is more pronounced in a straight 40 grade. Less so in 15W40, even less in 10W40, and so on. You can find viscosity specs for these oils at different temperatures elsewhere on the site--front page should lead you there.
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Indeed...if there is a problem with the cold viscosity on an oil as far as protection is concerned, it is because the oil is too thick and wont pump where it is needed easily.
I tend to stay away from T6 in my bikes due to shearing. I stick with 15W-40. I just changed oil in my Victory (shared engine/trans) yesterday and tried the T5 semi-synthetic in 15W-40. OM calls for 20W-40 semi-synthetic. We'll see how it works out.
oils refined from crude including group III fake synthetic oil require more fragile VII's with a wider # spread. take 5-40 lots of fragile VII's 10-40 better, 15-40 better yet. unless group IV or V oil is added to the blend thats the norm. unless you need cold weather performance a 15-40 is best. real synthetics group IV + V are a whole different story, lots of benefits + the ester oil of group V is polar + hangs on metal from hours to days unlike petroleum oils that quickly run off. redline is group V ester based, Amsoil a group IV PAO base with some ester oils added for its many benefits, both top performing oils that allow longer between changes to offset the cost
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