Crooked hour glass shaped boutique cartridge filter

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Here are some pictures of a Purolater Pureone removed from a 2003 Mazda 6i 2.3L engine. Oil filter has 6mo/6k usage with Mobil1/Redline 5w20 oil, no additives.

The OEM filter will sometimes have 1 or 2 pleats 'moved' a little. This Pureone is looking depressed, hourglass'd and lopsided!

I verified and double checked installation upon removal. Nope, definitely not an installation problem. Cartridge installation is idiot proof.

Purolator is 'retrieving' this filter for study. At least they are proactive.

I am glad that this engine is pretty stout. The oil went where it needed to go even if it just about knocked over the filter to get there
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I'll try to take better pictures when I find the charger for the camera.

So, anyone doubt that certain filters are overly restrictive?
Is 5w20 oil too THICK for usage in my engine?

Will my car look like this
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?

Was I crazy enough to install another to see if issue if repeatable?
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Check back in 6 months!
 
The filter doesn't have a center tube. It slides onto the tube which is parts of the filter mount and housing. The mount/housing center tube is perfect.

This filter collapsed while sitting on the OEM center tube.
 
I have one of the 2.3-liter MZR engines as well. From my point of view, the center tube Mazda (and Ford in their applications) uses is VERY flimsy compared with a good-quality metal center tube. Still, it shouldn't have a problem since 'they're all that way.'

Also, to be very honest with you, that looks to me like the filter cartridge was built just slightly too long and it crushed a little. That also doesn't make too much sense since I've used a 'regular' Purolator on mine and the fit was fine (no damage upon removal).

I sure wish I had convenient pressure-monitoring capabilities before and after the filter on my vehicle.

Filter guy, I find it kinda tough to believe that the filter assembly is in by pass on startup with 5W20 (which is what that page you reference ends up saying the problem here is). Particularly with the recent flow data you posted from a USED filter. In previous vehicles I've had with an O.P. gauge, I can't get the oil pump to go into bypass even with 15W40 on a 15-degree morning unless I revved the engine above ~4500 rpm. Now that's not the filter bypass, but again with the data you posted it seems odd. Unless of course the PureOne media really is as fine as they would have us believe while not flowing very well.
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Here's a question: Let's suppose all the MZR center tubes are as miserably flimsy as mine is. Let's also suppose that this PureOne cartridge did not fail or breach in any way. One might reasonably suppose, then, that the center tube deflects inward during cold start-up (at least on some engines) if the filter bypass mechanism's pressure is set high enough (how high high enough is I have no idea). Once the oil warms a little, the center tube should return to its original shape. If there's never a breach or failure of the cartridge, is there a problem?
 
I'd have a hard time figuring it being anything to do with a bypass valve problem with 20 weight oil. Surely possible ..but I'd have to witness the mechanic/physics of it to understand how it could happen.

Although it would make sense for a spiral type compression ..I don't know if you can predict that outcome as a given. It would be kinda odd if the compressed length of this filter ..matches the length of a yet to be installed filter (within a very close margin).
 
quote:

Originally posted by bulwnkl:
I have one of the 2.3-liter MZR engines as well. From my point of view, the center tube Mazda (and Ford in their applications) uses is VERY flimsy compared with a good-quality metal center tube. Still, it shouldn't have a problem since 'they're all that way.'

Also, to be very honest with you, that looks to me like the filter cartridge was built just slightly too long and it crushed a little. That also doesn't make too much sense since I've used a 'regular' Purolator on mine and the fit was fine (no damage upon removal).

I sure wish I had convenient pressure-monitoring capabilities before and after the filter on my vehicle.

Filter guy, I find it kinda tough to believe that the filter assembly is in by pass on startup with 5W20 (which is what that page you reference ends up saying the problem here is). Particularly with the recent flow data you posted from a USED filter. In previous vehicles I've had with an O.P. gauge, I can't get the oil pump to go into bypass even with 15W40 on a 15-degree morning unless I revved the engine above ~4500 rpm. Now that's not the filter bypass, but again with the data you posted it seems odd. Unless of course the PureOne media really is as fine as they would have us believe while not flowing very well.
dunno.gif


Here's a question: Let's suppose all the MZR center tubes are as miserably flimsy as mine is. Let's also suppose that this PureOne cartridge did not fail or breach in any way. One might reasonably suppose, then, that the center tube deflects inward during cold start-up (at least on some engines) if the filter bypass mechanism's pressure is set high enough (how high high enough is I have no idea). Once the oil warms a little, the center tube should return to its original shape. If there's never a breach or failure of the cartridge, is there a problem?


It's kinda hard for a metal center tube to deflect backwards without any assistance ( ie: reverse flow).

The E-core, with the nylon cage, does have "bouncebackability"..

Once a metal center tube is over pressured and starts to deform it stays that way..or gets worse.

I wasn't aware this particular design had the center tube as part of the housing. In Hydraulics they call this a "coreless" design filter. That being, the assembly has a reusable center tube. Either fixed or removable but reusable. ( There's an older Parker hydraulic design with a reusable metal center tube. It is actually more a "cage" element where you take out 4 long bolts, reuse the center tube and endcaps, and replace the media and two gaskets. We sell this.)

The two styles of automotive center tubes are a lock seam or a spiral lock. The spiral lock is probably 50% or more stronger. The lock seam you can crush in your hand by just squeezing your fingers around it. The spiral lock core you can't.


As it looks like unDummy's situation is more an element to tall and is crushed in that manner when installing due to the taller height.

Let that be a lesson...lol.

But the other situation is one to short, which has other problems. More than likely oil bypassing the media if the element is to short to seal.
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As for your trying to test a by-pass valve opening..
dunno.gif


Wouldn't the downstream flow be compensated by the by-pass doing it job? In other words..if you test downstream of the filter--the by-pass has compensated for the differential pressure already. You shouldn't see the differential pressure beyond the bypass opening settings ( 8-11 PSID)
dunno.gif


So if you have 45psi going in..you shouldn't see 33 or less psi downstream. It should always be between 34-45 psi downstream. So how would you know when the by-pass is opened to compensate?
dunno.gif


That's my guess anyway...
 
If the filter was too long, I would hope/assume that it would crush evenly all the way around(nice even twist) during installation(while screwing on the cap), or over the 6k miles of usage and heat cycles. This filter is lopsided as if the oil just pushed it aside, kept it there,
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and took the easiest flow route.

Bulwnkl, a deflecting center tube form of accidental bypass???? Interesting theory. But, there is a spring loaded valve in the base of the plastic cartridge housing(bypass?).

I'll have to take some Vernier measurements and compare it to the OEM filter and cheapo Purolator filter.

I really would like to see more runs of the Pureone cartridge in other MZR's.
 
FG, good point about the testing issues, though I'd think that if the bypass mechanism (the spring in the bottom of the housing unDummy talked about) is actually stuck, then you'd see the pressure differential. In any event, I no longer have the ability to test this easily.

For clarity's sake, the center cage in the MZR design is a very open plastic (nylon? polymer? whatever) piece. So, it sounds like it should have similar characteristics to an e-core.

unDummy, despite seeing these pictures before I came home yesterday, I did not return the 2 PureOne filters I bought for our Mazda. So, though it'll take a while, I'll have some experience with that element in this engine, too. Hopefully I can remember this thread's name long enough to find it again to post a picture or some kind of follow-up.
 
I have a 2006 MZ3 2.3 and I have changed the oil/filter 6 times and my filters always look just like they did when I installed them.

I use Wix 57203 (www.filter1.com). I have seen on mazda3forums that Purolators seem to be to long, because you're not the first to report this with Purolators.........Try Wix!!


Darryl
 
Bulwnkl, you'll have no problem finding this thread if your filter comes out looking like mine.
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Also, I am not ruling out a Mazda issue. Could the housing be machined/threaded too far deep so that the certain manufactured slightly tall filters(whether OEM or aftermarket) get squashed? A little too short here + a little too long there and 'squish'.

D bone, I completed forgot about the Wix filters for this car. OEM/STP/Fram/Pureone/Premium all have been used. I think that I'll visit Napa for the next service.
 
Have you seen the mod that changes your oil filter to a "regular" spin-on type?
I think it works on the 3 and the 6. They've got the same (Duratec) engine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by gtx510:
Have you seen the mod that changes your oil filter to a "regular" spin-on type?
I think it works on the 3 and the 6. They've got the same (Duratec) engine.


I have both the new spin-on filter mount and gasket sitting in my house right now. I bought the conversion kit right after I bought my car and learned it used the cartridge set up. After I did the cartridge filter a couple of times, I really started to like it for all of the reasons that I posted above.

The other (and main) reason that I haven't installed the conversion kit yet, is that I just can't get past the fact that Mazda put the cartridge on the 2.3 and the spin-on on the 2.0 for a reason. I don't know what that reason is, but I'm pretty nervous about changing their design. My only complaint is that the housing that the filter sits in is made of plastic, and I would rather it be made of an alloy of some kind.


Darryl
 
quote:

Originally posted by dwmcqueen:
I got exactly the same result from a PureOne on my 6i. Since then, I used OEM and Wix with no issues.

Thats what I was wondering. I am glad that I'm not the 'only one' with this issue.
 
Back in March of '03 I had this same problem with my Mini S. No center core in the Puro shown , when the Mini Cooper S OEM had one. Back then, I got only the run-around from Purolator. Only from the dearler since
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Paul
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I am confused. Ok the Purolator don't have any center tube of any kind? The filter housing is not what filter Guy described with a reusable center tube? The WIX and OEM do have a center tube or cage in the element itself? If the answers to my questions are no, no, and yes, it looks like Purolator is selling filters that don't meet the requirements for the application. Very disappointing for a brand I have trusted. Well, I once trusted Fram too.

The L 15436 elements my car takes have an Ecore like plastic center cage, and I have used a half a dozen or more with no problems.

I would never give up the convienence of a cartridge because one brand of elements were defective. Especially when you could tell by a quick look.
 
Well I changed my oil and filter on my Mercury Milan 2.3 I4 about 1/2 hour ago. Sure enough my Purolator filter looks just like pictures above.
I went out and bought a Carquest (WIX) filter.
(Made in Poland)
I had another Purolator so I thought, okay let’s install this thing take it off and look at it.
Well it was twisted like the pictures. (I did not run the engine.)Before this I measured both filters with a mic they were the same at there longest point. The Wix filter has hard caps on both ends and the diameter is 6mm larger. The WIX filter seemed much better IMOP. And I need to add I installed the Wix and also removed it no twisting. IMOP the Purolater with its felt top is griping both the top and bottom of the filter canister and is being twisted when screwing on the filter canister.
I have pictures of the 2 filters will post when I can snag the camera back from the wife.
(First day with the boy’s at school)
 
And I was hoping that I was an isolated case.

Send a complaint email to purolator. They'll send a retrieval kit and claim form. I filed a claim for the cost of the filter.

Heres the purolator contact:
[email protected]
 
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