This car has 260,000 mostly highway miles (my friend commuted 140 miles round trip for 8 years). He said the car has never had any major problems except for a new fuel pump. Claims he is still on original water pump. He offered the car to me for $2000 then offered to go lower so I could get a new battery and oil change. I've read some reviews on this car and it seems to be a love/hate relationship among owners. Curious as to what others think of this deal.
2003 Jetta TDI manual transmission
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No rust, no issues? If so, could be either a great deal or something that will fall apart. Same for any vehicle, really. Me, I'd be tempted to jump on this.
At that age I'd be thinking it might be due for lifters and/or camshaft. Maybe, maybe not. If you have the tools to do a timing belt change (engine lift, VCDS software, cam/crank locks) then it shouldn't be a problem.
If that is the original water pump it is way overdue. I'll go out on a limb and guess the timing belt was changed--but I'm dubious as to if it was done properly, and if all the other parts were changed too. I'd probably shotgun a new timing belt ASAP, as I wouldn't trust prior owners / unknown shops. Once the belt breaks the repair bill starts at $1,500--and climbs from there.
This is a German car. They don't take kindly to improperly done service nor to not doing things on time. As a VW, and an older one at that, I'd plan on getting VCDS (see Ross Tech for "VAG-COM" software) as you'd need it for timing belt changes, and to diagnose when it breaks (not if! but when).
tdiclub.com is a great resource for VW TDI specific info (myturbodiesel.com is another one but I have not hung out there); I usually buy my parts/fluids from ipdarts.com (in case you want to window shop parts and fluid costs).
At that age I'd be thinking it might be due for lifters and/or camshaft. Maybe, maybe not. If you have the tools to do a timing belt change (engine lift, VCDS software, cam/crank locks) then it shouldn't be a problem.
If that is the original water pump it is way overdue. I'll go out on a limb and guess the timing belt was changed--but I'm dubious as to if it was done properly, and if all the other parts were changed too. I'd probably shotgun a new timing belt ASAP, as I wouldn't trust prior owners / unknown shops. Once the belt breaks the repair bill starts at $1,500--and climbs from there.
This is a German car. They don't take kindly to improperly done service nor to not doing things on time. As a VW, and an older one at that, I'd plan on getting VCDS (see Ross Tech for "VAG-COM" software) as you'd need it for timing belt changes, and to diagnose when it breaks (not if! but when).
tdiclub.com is a great resource for VW TDI specific info (myturbodiesel.com is another one but I have not hung out there); I usually buy my parts/fluids from ipdarts.com (in case you want to window shop parts and fluid costs).
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Oh, and at those miles I would not be surprised if the turbo or clutch were to act up. Not saying they will, just that they could. Should be under a grand if you did both your self; or $2k+ to pay someone else. Nozzles could probably stand be replaced too. If I were to jump at this "deal" I'd go in with probably $3k in my back pocket to cover any repairs I might encounter in the first year or so, $2k if I were to be doing all the work myself.
Nick1994
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Just be prepared if it needs some work, and I wouldn't take my car to someone who wasn't experienced with these cars. Timing belt should be around $800-$1000 to have replaced with the water pump and tensioners/pulleys. The dealership is usually the best place for batteries, these diesels take a tole on parts store batteries and you'll be replacing often on those. The dealership batteries aren't terribly priced either. Take a good look over on the car first to make sure all the suspension bushings are in good shape along with all other front end parts and CV boots. I'd be amazed if it hasn't had CV boots replaced or either torn. Sounds like a good buy if you can talk him down though since it does need some work.
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WOW! No water pump. That's surprising since the pumps are generally replaced when the timing belt is done. This makes me wonder if any of the other replaceable items have been tended to.
If the price is right then you could buy that thing and turn it for a nice profit. The ALH powered A4 VW's are in demand. Just let the buyer know it needs timing belt/water pump/intercooler drain/EGR decarboned, etc. Those guys sell for around 5 grand in my part of the woods. At 225,000 miles, my A4 TDI Golf was on original clutch/CV joints, turbo, injection pump. So the mileage isn't a condemning focus.
If the price is right then you could buy that thing and turn it for a nice profit. The ALH powered A4 VW's are in demand. Just let the buyer know it needs timing belt/water pump/intercooler drain/EGR decarboned, etc. Those guys sell for around 5 grand in my part of the woods. At 225,000 miles, my A4 TDI Golf was on original clutch/CV joints, turbo, injection pump. So the mileage isn't a condemning focus.
Originally Posted By: FowVay
WOW! No water pump. That's surprising since the pumps are generally replaced when the timing belt is done. This makes me wonder if any of the other replaceable items have been tended to...
+1, walk away from this car...the water pump should have been replaced every time the timing belt was replaced.
WOW! No water pump. That's surprising since the pumps are generally replaced when the timing belt is done. This makes me wonder if any of the other replaceable items have been tended to...
+1, walk away from this car...the water pump should have been replaced every time the timing belt was replaced.
My friend offered me the car today for $1500. Said "I just want it gone. It's been sitting for 6 months." Timing belt service is $900 which puts me at $2400 invested in the car. Figure I could sell it for $3400 if I had to.
Nick1994
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Do it!
Upon further investigation, the timing belt, water pump, etc. was changed at 178,000 miles. Tech said something about a head issue that was fixed due to not replacing timing belt in a timely fashion. Think I'll take the plunge for $1500.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Well that means there is 82,000 miles on the timing belt and water pump which is when it's due anyways, and if the head was rebuilt then that's better for you too. I don't see that you have much to lose, they have a great resale value even if you don't like it. Diesel fuel is a lot pricier than gasoline right now but that should about even out starting next spring/summer.
With proper maintenance, how many miles can I go? Starting a new job that requires 40,000 miles a year driving mostly interstates. I've heard stories of 500,000 miles on these diesel engines. Have to admit I know little about them. I tried signing up over at tdiclub.com but my membership was refused. I'm guessing it's because I don't actually own a TDI yet (which I think is kinda dumb)
Nick1994
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Originally Posted By: outoforder
With proper maintenance, how many miles can I go? Starting a new job that requires 40,000 miles a year driving mostly interstates. I've heard stories of 500,000 miles on these diesel engines. Have to admit I know little about them. I tried signing up over at tdiclub.com but my membership was refused. I'm guessing it's because I don't actually own a TDI yet (which I think is kinda dumb)
It'll go as many miles as you keep putting parts into it. That doesn't necessarily mean bad though. Since yours is a manual transmission, it should go more miles than an automatic. Interstate driving this car should shine and if you keep it under 70-75 it should get around 45 mpg. TdiClub is a pretty decent forum. I was rejected the first time I signed up because I didn't put a TDI in there either. I emailed them and they redid it.
Also don't be afraid of 10k mile oil changes either, I believe you can run Mobil 1 0w40 in it too (excellent oil).
With proper maintenance, how many miles can I go? Starting a new job that requires 40,000 miles a year driving mostly interstates. I've heard stories of 500,000 miles on these diesel engines. Have to admit I know little about them. I tried signing up over at tdiclub.com but my membership was refused. I'm guessing it's because I don't actually own a TDI yet (which I think is kinda dumb)
It'll go as many miles as you keep putting parts into it. That doesn't necessarily mean bad though. Since yours is a manual transmission, it should go more miles than an automatic. Interstate driving this car should shine and if you keep it under 70-75 it should get around 45 mpg. TdiClub is a pretty decent forum. I was rejected the first time I signed up because I didn't put a TDI in there either. I emailed them and they redid it.
Also don't be afraid of 10k mile oil changes either, I believe you can run Mobil 1 0w40 in it too (excellent oil).
Originally Posted By: outoforder
Have to admit I know little about them.
I owned a 2003 Golf TDI in California. These are the best diesels IMO, reliable if maintained and not suffering from any emissions equipment except EGR which means only cleaning the intake every 60k miles.
Have to admit I know little about them.
I owned a 2003 Golf TDI in California. These are the best diesels IMO, reliable if maintained and not suffering from any emissions equipment except EGR which means only cleaning the intake every 60k miles.
Originally Posted By: supton
Could be very good. But put aside money!
Do the timing belt, maybe some nozzles, and wait for the next repair. I liked upgrading as parts broke. Made it a bit better each time.
Odd to have membership refused on tdiclub.com. I'd try again.
How do I know if nozzles need to be replaced? Would running Diesel Purge directly through the fuel line be sufficient for cleaning the nozzles?
Could be very good. But put aside money!
Do the timing belt, maybe some nozzles, and wait for the next repair. I liked upgrading as parts broke. Made it a bit better each time.
Odd to have membership refused on tdiclub.com. I'd try again.
How do I know if nozzles need to be replaced? Would running Diesel Purge directly through the fuel line be sufficient for cleaning the nozzles?
The older ALH/etc cars had nozzles that wore, impacting FE and power. I'm told the nozzles in my PD should be lifetime, but then some tell me they are at an age where they could stand to be replaced... On an ALH I'd probably shotgun them, largely so as to get larger nozzles that a good tune could take advantage of. 90hp gets the job done, but more is better.
If it's stock and smokes noticeably you probably need new nozzles.
Nozzles are cheap on the ALH, another advantage over the later engines. Additionally, increasing power is only a matter of installing larger nozzles first, then a higher-displacement pump for more, both at the expense of smoke. No ECU changes required.
Nozzles are cheap on the ALH, another advantage over the later engines. Additionally, increasing power is only a matter of installing larger nozzles first, then a higher-displacement pump for more, both at the expense of smoke. No ECU changes required.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
I wouldn't say if it smokes there's something wrong unless it smokes like a train. My car has smoked since new when you get on it, but not like a train.
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