How long did you go on factory fill?

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When there is no technical merit for something, than I guess we are against it.

Say, did you ever post pics of those non-precancels/non specimens with the lines through the denomination?

Originally Posted By: cookiemonster
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: cookiemonster
Purchased my car and changed out the synthetic 0W-20 factory-fill oil to a cheapo conventional 5w-20 and a magnetic drain plug upon bringing it home. Changed it again at 250miles (old oil had LOTS of shiny particles), changed again at 500 miles (old oil still had lots of shiny particles), and yet again at 1000 miles with conventional 10w-30 (moderate amounts of particles in old oil).

Changed the oil again at 1500 miles with conventional 5w-30 (PYB) - old oil was honey colored, no noticable shiny particles anymore. Will continue to change oil at 3mo/3750mi cycles here on.

(P.S. I did not notice any major mpg changes between all the different viscosities I used).

This is BITOG as its best, for this break in procedure you have to be nuts.
I'm an old school nut ... Are you prejudiced against nuts?
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Poor old retarded OEMs that know how to produce vehicles but are apparently clueless when coming to operation and maintenance requirements for the vehicles.


If they knew what's best they would recommend changing the oil at 0 mi, 250 mi, 500 mi, and 1000 mi. Each time with a different oil and viscosity. lol

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
I know someone that leased a ford explorer for 2 years and never changed the oil, ever


Depending on what the factory interval is and how many miles they drove that may not be crazy. BMW has recommended 2 years/15k mile interval on some of their cars, and that includes the first oil change.
 
2014 Jeep Wrangler - about 650 miles
2014 Ford Mustang - about 1400 miles
2013 Nissan Juke - about 1200 miles
2015 Nissan Altima - planned at maybe 1000 miles?

UOA on all of them. As expected, wear metals all over the place.
 
Hopefully, in 20 years, you will come back and tell us how many miles you have been able to put on these vehicles without any oil related failures on the engine.
 
On my personal car the first owner leased it and drove 18k km in 2 years. The oil was never changed in that time. At 160,000 km there is no engine problems or oil burn.
 
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Poor old retarded OEMs that know how to produce vehicles but are apparently clueless when coming to operation and maintenance requirements for the vehicles.

If they knew what's best they would recommend changing the oil at 0 mi, 250 mi, 500 mi, and 1000 mi. Each time with a different oil and viscosity. lol


I'm really glad I didn't hear this when I bought my two Toyotas new, and ran the oil out to the manual specified interval for the factory fill.

You think I might experience reduced life?
 
2014 Honda Civic LX- Castrol Syntec 0/20 w/wix filter.
first OC 6000 miles, OLM at 50% and didn't reset it. will run till OLM is at 10-15% and change again. will follow OLM after that with a quality 0/20
 
After doing a lot of research on the TDI forums I don't plan on changing the oil in my VW until 10,000 miles. I'll do a UOA of the FF which is Castrol 5w30.
 
Four schools of thought:
1) Change ASAP... wear metals, glitter, junk oil, etc. GET FF OUT NOW!
2) Magic break-in oil, leave it in until the last possible second to work it's magic!
3) Magic (break-in oil) takes time... but not quite as long as the manual specifies.
4) Who cares? It's a lease!

Personally I bought my car with 3xx miles on it as a demo. I changed oil with conventional around 500 miles, 1500 miles, 3k miles, 5k miles, then every 5k with synthetic (or Kendall synthetic blend when I had a 33 mile one-way commute) until nearly 145k...

I've built 12-15 engines from the bare machined block (each one a different VIN number) and changed the (VWB or Super Tech Conventional break-in) oil between 50 and 500 miles. It's always sparkly, and the engines always last.

The worst abuse of a factory fill I ever personally witnessed was 18k miles on a rental car... the oil came out like tar. The second worst is my dad's BMW at 16k (OLM specified)... no idea how that oil came out but 16k on FF in a turbo/DI engine is at least 15k too long in my eyes.

Will my 150-500 mile "FF" OCI engines outlast the bodies they are in? Yes. Will my dad's 16k mile FF OCI engine outlast the body it's in? Yes (most likely).

Do what makes you sleep at night...since you're here there's a 99.999% change your engine will last longer than the body it's in no matter if you run OLM stealership oil/filter changes or 3k mile ultra-mega-premium-special-order oil/filter changes with ultra-mega-premium-special-order oil additive.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: linksep
Four schools of thought:
1) Change ASAP... wear metals, glitter, junk oil, etc. GET FF OUT NOW!
2) Magic break-in oil, leave it in until the last possible second to work it's magic!
3) Magic (break-in oil) takes time... but not quite as long as the manual specifies.
4) Who cares? It's a lease!


I used to happily be in the #3 category until I started reading BITOG. Now I may be an outlier. On my current car(2012 Subaru Impreza with the FB20 motor) I pulled a sample from the dipstick at 23 miles on the odometer and sent it out for analysis. When I got it back I purchased six quarts of the oil that most closely resembled the FF on paper(Thanks to the VOAs on BITOG!). After the oil came in I changed the oil at 1900 miles(Approx. half of the 3750 first OCI stated in the manual) and added Liqui Moly Mos2 to bring up the Moly count and ran it for 3700 miles. ~80K miles later and the car consumes zero oil over 10K+ intervals while it seems that many other FB20s built in the same time-frame are having major consumption issues.
 
Last edited:
I'm in the #3 crowd according to linksep. I left it in so the engine could break in but I was super uncomfortable with going 6k plus miles on the FF per Hondas OLM. With about 700 miles since I changed the factory fill, the motor seems to be more peppy and quieter. Maybe it's the placebo effect but it definitely helps me sleep better at night.
 
I went with #1 as I usually do. With my 2013 pickup, when I changed the rear diff at 1000 miles, it had been not filled properly at factory. 2 pints low. The Transfer case, the magnetic plug looked like my cat had it's tail stuck in a light socket with all the metal particles on it in just 1000 miles. I even did that one again at 10,000 to make sure and it looked fine. The engine got it's first oil change at 1000 miles, then another 5000 miles, now it is on a OLM down to 10% routine, or ballpark 7500 miles.

There are different reasons, I suppose, for how people view this stuff. Based on my experience with this pickup, I am solidly in the #1 camp.
 
Engine FF
As soon as I get home from the dealership,
The end of the next day (typically 150-200 miles)
1000 miles
5000 miles
Every 5k thereafter

Gearbox FF
As soon as I get home from the dealership,
The end of the next day (typically 150-200 miles)
Every 20k thereafter
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
Engine FF
As soon as I get home from the dealership,
The end of the next day (typically 150-200 miles)
1000 miles
5000 miles
Every 5k thereafter

Gearbox FF
As soon as I get home from the dealership,
The end of the next day (typically 150-200 miles)
Every 20k thereafter


I've done a few that way myself. You have to be careful mentioning it here though.
wink.gif
 
All my new vehicle FF's are dumped at 500 miles again at 1500 and then again at 3K at which time synthetic oil is used, 5K intervals from then on.
cheers3.gif
 
'13 Cruze, 1.4T
First OC (Dealership Dexos in and out) was at 1,900 mi. and change.
Changed that out with Valvoline Synpower at 6,000 mi. (4K elapsed), again at 10K, and every 5K after that. Coming up on 77,000 now and doesn't use any oil between changes.
laugh.gif
 
Wife's Jeep: 500, 2000, 5000, after that oil life indicator about 7500-8000 miles.

My Diesel truck: 1000, 3000, 6000, after that based on UOA sampling

You're gonna have small micron abrasive metals during break-in period. Good filters and regular oil changes.
 
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