Opinions Wanted: Sherwin-Williams Paint

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Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Behr ceiling paint is weak, very weak. Sure aren't getting away with a single coat!

Mr. Demarpaint: feel like sharing any secrets or tips on cutting above thin trip or under crowm molding? I'd like to say I'm not very good; but it would be a lie....I SUX!

whenever it does not work, blame it on the (small) kids.... :)
 
Originally Posted By: pandus13
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Behr ceiling paint is weak, very weak. Sure aren't getting away with a single coat!

Mr. Demarpaint: feel like sharing any secrets or tips on cutting above thin trip or under crowm molding? I'd like to say I'm not very good; but it would be a lie....I SUX!

whenever it does not work, blame it on the (small) kids.... :)

meaning the kids distracted you... or ... they painted with you... (2 and 5 in here....)
for people like you and me, green tape is our friend. DO NOT leave blue tape in place more than 2 days. DO NOT use the white tape (it is not for folks like us...)
Take your time!
I'm still waiting for demarpaint's tips... (but giving his knowledge, he's busy)
this thread is gold (many thanks to all teaching us newbies...)
 
That is a fact! I'll take whatever tip I can get. I just finished my kids bedroom. My wife wanted a damX accent wall! My daughters room was a chair rail so I painted the upper and lower (different colors) and THEN installed the rail...MORE TRIM for the future! Yuck!

Yesterday I did the main bathroom upstairs. For such a small room there sure is a lot of cuts!!! I dont like laying tile or painting in a bathroom!
 
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
That is a fact! I'll take whatever tip I can get. I just finished my kids bedroom. My wife wanted a damX accent wall! My daughters room was a chair rail so I painted the upper and lower (different colors) and THEN installed the rail...MORE TRIM for the future! Yuck!

Yesterday I did the main bathroom upstairs. For such a small room there sure is a lot of cuts!!! I dont like laying tile or painting in a bathroom!

let's make the horror even more horror-ish: paint in a bathroom; obligatory step: take down 22 years old wallpaper glued on (maybe) primed (with builder's special paint...) wall; glue does not react to steam, vinegar, hot water, walpaper remover liquids... (let's say dad lost lots of steam... phonically and physically)

you did good: you kids will love you even more; you just got elevated from "dad's just changed the oil" to "my dad totally re-did my room" to "this iz nic" (my 2 years old doesn't talk full words yet...)
 
I just finished trimming out the utility room with a quart of Behr Ultra Premium Plus. Thought it was pretty decent stuff and going to finish the rest of the house with it.
 
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Behr ceiling paint is weak, very weak. Sure aren't getting away with a single coat!

Mr. Demarpaint: feel like sharing any secrets or tips on cutting above thin trip or under crowm molding? I'd like to say I'm not very good; but it would be a lie....I SUX!


Behr 'ceiling' paint is one product I haven't tried.

The trick to cutting in is not to get paint where it's not supposed to be. j/k

When I paint a room I paint the ceiling first getting a very tiny amount on the crown. While the ceiling dries I do the windows and window frames, door frames, then the crown. Floor trim is done last, the doors can be done as fill work if something is taking too long to dry.

When I paint the crown, window and doors frames I allow a very small amount onto the walls. That makes the straight cut under the crown, around the window and door frames a lot easier. Once all the trim is dry I cut in the walls and roll them. Deep tone colors get done one wall at a time. Floor trim is done at the end of the job.

Cutting in crown, window and door frames after the walls are done is a lot harder. It takes time and practice, but once you get the hang of it a visually straight cut is very easy, no tape needed.

You'd be amazed how many professional painters do the trim last and kick themselves for all the years they could have been doing it in the sequence I outlined above. It can save hours on a room, and it looks better too.

Last thoughts- A good angular brush is worth its weight in gold! Storing them so they retain their shape helps too. This is just an outline, patching, caulking, etc can change the sequence a little bit, but the doors are always good for fill in work. It is also very rare that we paint one room at a time, so while things are drying we bounce to another room. I hope that helps answer your question.
 
Sure does help! Thanks for taking the time to answer. I will begin to look at it in this way.
 
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Sure does help! Thanks for taking the time to answer. I will begin to look at it in this way.


Glad to help.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Behr ceiling paint is weak, very weak. Sure aren't getting away with a single coat!

Mr. Demarpaint: feel like sharing any secrets or tips on cutting above thin trip or under crowm molding? I'd like to say I'm not very good; but it would be a lie....I SUX!


Behr 'ceiling' paint is one product I haven't tried.

The trick to cutting in is not to get paint where it's not supposed to be. j/k

When I paint a room I paint the ceiling first getting a very tiny amount on the crown. While the ceiling dries I do the windows and window frames, door frames, then the crown. Floor trim is done last, the doors can be done as fill work if something is taking too long to dry.

When I paint the crown, window and doors frames I allow a very small amount onto the walls. That makes the straight cut under the crown, around the window and door frames a lot easier. Once all the trim is dry I cut in the walls and roll them. Deep tone colors get done one wall at a time. Floor trim is done at the end of the job.

Cutting in crown, window and door frames after the walls are done is a lot harder. It takes time and practice, but once you get the hang of it a visually straight cut is very easy, no tape needed.

You'd be amazed how many professional painters do the trim last and kick themselves for all the years they could have been doing it in the sequence I outlined above. It can save hours on a room, and it looks better too.

Last thoughts- A good angular brush is worth its weight in gold! Storing them so they retain their shape helps too. This is just an outline, patching, caulking, etc can change the sequence a little bit, but the doors are always good for fill in work. It is also very rare that we paint one room at a time, so while things are drying we bounce to another room. I hope that helps answer your question.

Demar,
many thanks for taking the time to write....

what do you do on old (old people lived there) houses? (I used 2 coats of oops paint, 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of the wanted paint)
what about "cat" houses?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: pandus13
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Behr ceiling paint is weak, very weak. Sure aren't getting away with a single coat!

Mr. Demarpaint: feel like sharing any secrets or tips on cutting above thin trip or under crowm molding? I'd like to say I'm not very good; but it would be a lie....I SUX!


Behr 'ceiling' paint is one product I haven't tried.

The trick to cutting in is not to get paint where it's not supposed to be. j/k

When I paint a room I paint the ceiling first getting a very tiny amount on the crown. While the ceiling dries I do the windows and window frames, door frames, then the crown. Floor trim is done last, the doors can be done as fill work if something is taking too long to dry.

When I paint the crown, window and doors frames I allow a very small amount onto the walls. That makes the straight cut under the crown, around the window and door frames a lot easier. Once all the trim is dry I cut in the walls and roll them. Deep tone colors get done one wall at a time. Floor trim is done at the end of the job.

Cutting in crown, window and door frames after the walls are done is a lot harder. It takes time and practice, but once you get the hang of it a visually straight cut is very easy, no tape needed.

You'd be amazed how many professional painters do the trim last and kick themselves for all the years they could have been doing it in the sequence I outlined above. It can save hours on a room, and it looks better too.

Last thoughts- A good angular brush is worth its weight in gold! Storing them so they retain their shape helps too. This is just an outline, patching, caulking, etc can change the sequence a little bit, but the doors are always good for fill in work. It is also very rare that we paint one room at a time, so while things are drying we bounce to another room. I hope that helps answer your question.

Demar,
many thanks for taking the time to write....

what do you do on old (old people lived there) houses? (I used 2 coats of oops paint, 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of the wanted paint)
what about "cat" houses?


Do you mean old people or cat houses that stink from, [fill in the blank] _______, etc? If so wash down the surfaces to be painted, then have the floor sander come in and do the floors. When he's done, we come in and mask off the floors, prime with Bin, or an oil base primer, sealer, stain killer, and top coat with 2 coats of finish paint. Hopefully that answered your questions.......
 
I'm re-staining the cladboards and painting the trim. All the cladboards do is to keep sun and rain off the house wrap The sun baked red cedar is soaking up the stain big time. Its S-W solid stain. Two coats so far and it may see a third. The trim is getting a coat of primer and 2 coats of gloss latex. I'm using Phenoseal paint-able caulk for gaps.

It is a task that is pushing my 63 yr old ex house carpenter/shipwright creaky body,with destroyed lungs, to the limit. I should have continued the project back in '12, but I suffered mission creep on the Rat revival.

I'm just like a real carpenter/ painter except I'm ten or twenty times slower and sloppier. And a hundred times thriftier.My meds don't allow me to sweat the small stuff. I enjoyed putting on the cladboards when I did them almost 30 yrs ago. Then I re-used the best of the take offs on the back gable. I stashed the remainders in the loft of my shop.The absolutely slivered cladboards are getting replaced and splits and gaps are being caulked. All nails are being set. and repairs are being made as they arise.I having fun. doing the job since I got into to it. The stain and paint go on great. I have a brush from the first time . A 3 1/2 Purdy circa 1978. It has been worn to a chisel edge that makes me better than I am. I use a heavier brush that holds more to apply the stain and the old Purdy to cut in and to spread it out: With a final full length sweep to disappear the brush strokes. I like the way the paint spreads and it dries quicker. I like the way the weathered siding soaks up the stain. I put on two coats of everything. I started out with some oil base primer. I stopped and re-started with a quart of Zinser universal primer. I've used that up and got a gallon of latex primer. Would oil based primer be a better choice for weathered trim? I'm done with oil. The clean up is way easier with latex.
 
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