Need some expertise!

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Florida
2005 Chevy Uplander 3.5 V6
5W-30 GM Specs are GM6049M2 Starburst and API. Currently changing conventional at OLM. SYN was at 8-10K
Vehicle based in Florida with road trip to Georgia and TN 2-3 times a year. This van see a little of everything: Stop and GO, hard and fast average 300-400 miles a week.

I was using a full Syn with pure 1 filter and mobil 1 filter. I started to develop an issue with low oil pressure warnings and a decrease in fuel mileage. I shorted the change interval same issue, now developing oil burnoff/use. Switch back to conventional gas mileage increase and still have the burnoff/ use issue. My friend/ mechanic tells me to live and deal with, he finds no reason for the oil use.

Any suggestions on what oil to try next? At this point in time I just want to drive it until it dies, it has served my family well. I just want to see how far/long I can it running before major repairs.

Thanks for your input and advice.
 
Given your climate, I'd try the M1 HM 10w-30, which is ACEA a3. It's a bit stouter and has all the goodies to combat use as best as you can with a chemical fix.
 
How many miles on the vehicle? If the mileage is high...try an oil like Valvoline Max Life 10W30 or Pennzoil HM to see if it helps..
 
Originally Posted By: FSully1
Any suggestions on what oil to try next?

Mineral all the way, 10W30 , 5000 miles OCI.
Add about 50 ml of SeaFoam per one liter of oil, drive for about 200 miles, than change the oil. You can use MMO also.
I would recommend to use Seafoam from brake booster line too, but this is nothing to do with oil consumption.
 
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Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 / 5k mile oci. If you wish to maintain a 10k mile oci, MaxLife syn or M1 HM.
 
How many miles do you have on this rig?
How much oil is it using?
Was the onset of consumption abrupt, which would indicate a failure, or gradual, which would probably just be the result of wear or rings that have gotten progresssively less free.
In Florida, I'd have no concerns about running a 10W-40 and seeing how it goes while adding oil as needed.
 
If the air filter is more than 2 years old it wouldn't hurt to change it. A very restricted filter will cause the PCV system to flow backwards and suck air/oil out of the crankcase and into the air plenum where it is drawn into the engine and burnt.
 
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
...... A very restricted filter will cause the PCV system to flow backwards and suck air/oil out of the crankcase and into the air plenum where it is drawn into the engine and burnt.


LOL! where did that info comes from? Any facts to prove it (or just your observations)?

Q.
 
If you google causes of oil consumption you will find reference to this problem. GM also has a TSB mentioning this problem in regard to high oil consumption with their 3.6. I have also observed this first hand. Most cars have a "fresh air tube" that feeds air to the valve cover from between the air filter and the throttle body. With large throttle demands, vacuum is applied to this fresh air tube and air flows from the crankcase to the plenum. A plugged air filter exacerbates this problem.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
PCV valve?

Never thought about it, in fact GM has a bracket riveted to the valve cover. But the rivets came out with some patience, and new aftermarket PCV installed. IT was in pretty bad shape.


Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
If the air filter is more than 2 years old it wouldn't hurt to change it. A very restricted filter will cause the PCV system to flow backwards and suck air/oil out of the crankcase and into the air plenum where it is drawn into the engine and burnt.


The air filter was approximately 3 years old and looked fine, but I changed it with a fresh filter.

But a question back to when I started using M1 EP and the low pressure issue, should I be overly concerned or is due to the M1 starting to clean out the motor?

Thank you for all the advice.
 
I ran a catch can on my turbo Z and currently run a catch can on my Subaru STI... Not that the OP needs to but because what the other poster said is well known.

As to the OP. Food for thought. GM isn't known for having the best gauges. Maybe try an after market oil pressure gauge? Could be nothing more then a gauge problem.
 
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