Oil Suggestions

[berserkerx]

Okay so I am sure that this is the typical first post.

But here it goes. I drive a 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo MR.

I have been using M1 5W30 since day one pretty much. Its got 15k on the clock now. The book says mostly ILSAC Certified or API SM/SN in it. I change it every 5k roughly

I can be kinda rough on the car at times. I wait for it to idle down before moving it but I do drive it like I feel it should be. My wife drives it to her work which is a 22 mile one way trip. There are some short trips involved. I live in Utah so I see it all. I get cold and hot weather.

So is M1 a good one to stick with. A lot of the other evo guys and Subaru guys dont seem to like it according to their UOA. I haven't done one yet but will be on the oil I just draine. I have been looking at the Rotella T6 oil as its been suggested by a few of the others.

I used to love Redline but I drifted away. Not necessarily anything wrong with it. My BMW burned no matter what I put in it.

For the record I use RP filters.

 

[Donald]

M1 is quality oil.

Many people do not know how to interrupt a UOA. And as they say do not believe everything you read on the internet. Or BITOG.

If your using M1 that is spec'ed for your car and its done you well then stick with it.

I would not think you have issues for short trips, which is not getting the oil/engine hot. It would show up as fuel dilution and oxidation.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: berserkerx
.... is M1 a good one to stick with.

+1 and Welcome to the Forum.

Keep things simple. Use an oil that meets or exceeds the manufactures' recommendations and perform the maintenance on time.

In the long-run, maintenance never costs you!

 

[Jeffs2006EvoIX]

In all 4 of my Evo's I ran Redline 5w30 with no issues what so ever. Love the stuff.

In my Evo 9 MR running 420whp on E85 I ran Redline 5w30 and changed it every 3k miles.

I just love RL. Excellent oil.

I miss my Evo, regret selling it, I didn't care for the X I had as much as my 8 and 9's. My 9 MR though was my favorite.

[img:left][/img]

Jeff

 

[berserkerx]

I had an evo ix I used red line in as well. I guess what made me drift from it is my [censored] BMW. I burned M1, Royal purple, redline and castrol. So I just bought the cheapest full synthetic name brand I could.

If M1 is still pretty good I will stick with it. I get it at a good price. At Costco on coupon its $28 for 6 quarts.

Should I stick with 5w30? I did read that the M1 0w40 is a little better. But shell is coming out with T6 0w40 too.

 

[barkingspider]

I think you should stick with 5w30, at least until warranty is done. I would do it until the says otherwise.

 

[berserkerx]

In the UOA why does most Mobil 1 have higher iron count in it? I guess I just need to get my oil tested and see if everything is looking good. Lucky me there is a testing facility right here in Utah.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: berserkerx
In the UOA why does most Mobil 1 have higher iron count in it? I guess I just need to get my oil tested and see if everything is looking good. Lucky me there is a testing facility right here in Utah.



K. Your new so I'll give you the condensed version.
Used oil analysis are done to test the condition of the oil,not to measure wear.
Now one used oil analysis is useless in relation to the engine because trends need to be established.
Once you get a few used oil analysis done you'll see what your particular engine expels in relation to many things,not just wear metals.
So a few ppm,even 30 or 40ppm difference in wear metals really isn't a huge cause for concern. It could be a particle streak or an inconsistency in metallurgy,however because it's anomalous note it and carry on.
When the trends are consistent over a period of data collection when something does present itself over consecutive used oil analysis only then can one infer that a problem may exist.
But wear cannot be accurately measured in any of the common used oil analysis we get done and posted here.
Engines like the Chev 350 shed high wear metals throught their entire service life yet usually outlive the body it's bolted into.
We have a member with a grand national that showed stellar used oil analysis right up until it lunched itself.
So don't put too much stock in a single used oil analysis with higher than universal averages as far as wear metals. Every engine is different.
If the acquired trends present an anomaly that doesn't return to the previous averages then you may have an issue.
The only way to measure wear is to weigh and measure the parts prior to being installed in the engine,then weigh and measure them at teardown.
Anything else is a guess at best.

 

[berserkerx]

okay that helps ease my concerns about people talking about high iron in M1. But that isnt on my car so their car could be different. Looking at a couple oil spec sheets they have the viscosity ratings of course at 40 and 100 Celsius. The M1 extended performance has a lower viscosity at 40 than normal M1 synthetic. Would it possibly be worth the extra money and provide better wear protection??

I guess to simplify my question when does most of the wear really occur on a car. Cold start and driving or does a little auto cross do more. Oil temps after warming up settle between 212-229 while running on it.