I'm gonna do it! 10,000 mile oci.

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Your truck is 12 years old and has 77,000 miles on it. That's only 6400 miles per year. How about an annual oil change in October with M1 EP and a Fram Ultra filter? That should more than cover it.

But do go for a nice, long highway cruise every couple of weeks to thoroughly exercise the mechanicals. It's therapeutic for both man and machine.


Thats true if he bought it new. He may be doing more or less than 6400 miles per year

 

[Kuato]

All the opinions expressed so far, though from intelligent and BITOG educated individuals, are still opinions until a UOA is done. 10k on synthetic in severe service? Certainly possible with the right engine/oil combination.

In your position I would sample and leave in at 5k to see how the oil is doing.

 

[addyguy]

I would do 6 month OCI's fall and spring with nothing but short-tripping in a cold climate.

I'm assuming this truck has the 4.7 V-8, and I've read here that these engines 'gunk up' because of condensation mixing with the oil in short-trip cold weather service.

 

[DuckRyder]

Of note is that Mobil says M1 EP is good for 15,000 miles or one year so if you are expecting them to do anything for you in case of an oil related failure you'll need to adhere to that.

That said based on my UOA's I'd be pretty comfortable with 10,000 / 24 months in a clean engine even with the severe service. Mines run service close to that severe at times but not quite and usually has plenty of TBN left.

Pulling a sample at 5000 and then again at the 10,000 change is sound advice.

There is no evidence the oil explodes at 12 or 24 months, but the Mobil warranty does at 12.

Again, that is what I would be comfortable with ... others will probably tell you that you can go longer, some shorter... you have to figure out what you are good with...

 

[HM12460]

Gentlemen, I certainly thank you for your thought's. A few things were mentioned that I hadn't considered. My concern was the short tripping, condensation, unburnt fuel contamination, and the sump capacity. The Dakota holds 4 quarts, with filter. I plan to run it 5000-6000 miles and do a UOA through Blackstone. Again, thank you for your comments.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Short trips you say, 10,000 miles OCI you say? If it were my car I would do a 6 month OCI, one year FCI. If you are dead set on going 10K use M1 EP and a Fram Ultra. Make sure it gets fully warmed up every now and then. Then do a UOA at the end of the run to see how things held up.



I never,ever agree with you but I'll admit I think you have a point here using EP for 10000 miles.
It's only a few bucks more and considering the short tripping the higher poa content will be of some benefit.


First time for everything my friend.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Of note is that Mobil says M1 EP is good for 15,000 miles or one year so if you are expecting them to do anything for you in case of an oil related failure you'll need to adhere to that.


Yeah,I am guessing in the history of oil company warranties there has never been one case where an oil company ever paid out any money in an oil related failure.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Im presently doing 5 mile trips also, I do a spring and fall change generally and avoid the cold time labor. But if switching to synthetic, just watch for leaks developing.

My Colorado, many years ago I went to mobil 1 and my wifes rav4 went to Mobil1 hm, both developed valve cover leaks shortly after. I stopped using it in both, the Colorado recovered nicely, the Rav 4 slowed to a non issue, no oil ever hit the ground.

I just run basic oil, like regular mobil, its cheap and seems to do very well, without side effects.


You should re-post this on threads regarding full synthetics do not cause leaks.


Originally Posted By: HM12460
Gentlemen, I certainly thank you for your thought's. A few things were mentioned that I hadn't considered. My concern was the short tripping, condensation, unburnt fuel contamination, and the sump capacity. The Dakota holds 4 quarts, with filter. I plan to run it 5000-6000 miles and do a UOA through Blackstone. Again, thank you for your comments.

For the OP by the way the cost of doing an UOA is usually the same cost as a basic oil and filter change I have come to a conclusion that as used oil is recycled so why bother with an UOA ? Just do the oil change.

 

[donnyj08]

Originally Posted By: Schmoe
Use M1 EP and 'forgettaboutit...



What he said ^

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Im presently doing 5 mile trips also, I do a spring and fall change generally and avoid the cold time labor. But if switching to synthetic, just watch for leaks developing.

My Colorado, many years ago I went to mobil 1 and my wifes rav4 went to Mobil1 hm, both developed valve cover leaks shortly after. I stopped using it in both, the Colorado recovered nicely, the Rav 4 slowed to a non issue, no oil ever hit the ground.

I just run basic oil, like regular mobil, its cheap and seems to do very well, without side effects.


You should re-post this on threads regarding full synthetics do not cause leaks.


Originally Posted By: HM12460
Gentlemen, I certainly thank you for your thought's. A few things were mentioned that I hadn't considered. My concern was the short tripping, condensation, unburnt fuel contamination, and the sump capacity. The Dakota holds 4 quarts, with filter. I plan to run it 5000-6000 miles and do a UOA through Blackstone. Again, thank you for your comments.

For the OP by the way the cost of doing an UOA is usually the same cost as a basic oil and filter change I have come to a conclusion that as used oil is recycled so why bother with an UOA ? Just do the oil change.



Gimme a break.


Synthetic oils don't cause leaks.
To cause the leak the oil will have to have compromised the gasket. Show me even 1 case of that in the recent past.
They will expose a gasket issue though. So no they don't cause the leak but will expose one.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Yeah,I am guessing in the history of oil company warranties there has never been one case where an oil company ever paid out any money in an oil related failure.

Quaker State did at one time. If I recall correctly, TomNJ told the story a little while ago in a thread somewhere here. It was something to do with some cold cranking issues.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Yeah,I am guessing in the history of oil company warranties there has never been one case where an oil company ever paid out any money in an oil related failure.

Quaker State did at one time. If I recall correctly, TomNJ told the story a little while ago in a thread somewhere here. It was something to do with some cold cranking issues.


They paid him money because he had an oil related engine failure with their oil? I doubt it..

 

[Garak]

That's not what I meant at all. TomNJ, being involved in the industry, related the story, as I recall, of QS covering a bunch of engines, as a matter of fact, when there were serious cold cranking problems with one of their multigrades sometime in the 1980s. Maybe he'll see this and provide better details, or someone else who recalls it better than I do might chime in.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Im presently doing 5 mile trips also, I do a spring and fall change generally and avoid the cold time labor. But if switching to synthetic, just watch for leaks developing.

My Colorado, many years ago I went to mobil 1 and my wifes rav4 went to Mobil1 hm, both developed valve cover leaks shortly after. I stopped using it in both, the Colorado recovered nicely, the Rav 4 slowed to a non issue, no oil ever hit the ground.

I just run basic oil, like regular mobil, its cheap and seems to do very well, without side effects.


You should re-post this on threads regarding full synthetics do not cause leaks.


Originally Posted By: HM12460
Gentlemen, I certainly thank you for your thought's. A few things were mentioned that I hadn't considered. My concern was the short tripping, condensation, unburnt fuel contamination, and the sump capacity. The Dakota holds 4 quarts, with filter. I plan to run it 5000-6000 miles and do a UOA through Blackstone. Again, thank you for your comments.

For the OP by the way the cost of doing an UOA is usually the same cost as a basic oil and filter change I have come to a conclusion that as used oil is recycled so why bother with an UOA ? Just do the oil change.



Gimme a break.


Synthetic oils don't cause leaks.
To cause the leak the oil will have to have compromised the gasket. Show me even 1 case of that in the recent past.
They will expose a gasket issue though. So no they don't cause the leak but will expose one.


No I will give you no break.

Some synthetics do cause leaks even if it was a faslo seal expose d.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Im presently doing 5 mile trips also, I do a spring and fall change generally and avoid the cold time labor. But if switching to synthetic, just watch for leaks developing.

My Colorado, many years ago I went to mobil 1 and my wifes rav4 went to Mobil1 hm, both developed valve cover leaks shortly after. I stopped using it in both, the Colorado recovered nicely, the Rav 4 slowed to a non issue, no oil ever hit the ground.

I just run basic oil, like regular mobil, its cheap and seems to do very well, without side effects.


You should re-post this on threads regarding full synthetics do not cause leaks.


Originally Posted By: HM12460
Gentlemen, I certainly thank you for your thought's. A few things were mentioned that I hadn't considered. My concern was the short tripping, condensation, unburnt fuel contamination, and the sump capacity. The Dakota holds 4 quarts, with filter. I plan to run it 5000-6000 miles and do a UOA through Blackstone. Again, thank you for your comments.

For the OP by the way the cost of doing an UOA is usually the same cost as a basic oil and filter change I have come to a conclusion that as used oil is recycled so why bother with an UOA ? Just do the oil change.



Gimme a break.


Synthetic oils don't cause leaks.
To cause the leak the oil will have to have compromised the gasket. Show me even 1 case of that in the recent past.
They will expose a gasket issue though. So no they don't cause the leak but will expose one.


No I will give no break regarding this.

Some synthetics do cause leaks even if it was a false seal that was exposed. If there was no leak before a synthetic oil and a leak after the synthetic oil then it was the syn that caused the leak.

Tired of reading (really tired) of the gobbly-doop hooh-lala reasons such as it was this or that and syn just unmasked it.

 

[tig1]

virginoil, Tired or not, synthetic oil does not cause oil leaks. Poor gaskets and seals do.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: tig1
virginoil, Tired or not, synthetic oil does not cause oil leaks. Poor gaskets and seals do.


When BITOG members (or oil manufacturer or other) promote others to change an oil brand from what they were previously using then that oil that was used when the leak first occurred in my view is the oil that caused the leak.

Gaskets can fail from time to time regardless of the oil no question here, I am tired of some members blanket promoting synthetic oils or a change to full synthetics as if there is no consequence or other considerations to be taken into account such as vehicle age, mileage, history and its condition etc.