Engine Control Module issues. Trusted Rebuilders?

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wrcsixeight

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Mine, now 9 years old, a rebuilt Cardone ECM, is compromised at the base of one of the 2 connectors. I'm pretty sure a good solderer could remove the potting and reflow the solder at the base of the pins on the circuit board. I do not feel my skills are there yet, and would not, will not try unless I have an operational backup already installed or was way outta range of civilization with nothing to lose.

I can buy another remanufactured/rebuilt cardone or SMP for 230 to 270$ and keep my current failing ecm and then have 2 non functioning cores.

or I can send my original 1989 OEM ECM off to be rebuilt somewhere as I never returned it for the core charge.

Either way I want to have 2 fully functional ECMs, as acquiring the correct version of this ECM out on a road trip( where I just was) is a bit of a chore and a huge inconvenience, as well as a budget breaker.

There are issues with Manual transmission modules and Automatic tranny modules being freely interchanged, whereas the one version will not activate OD or lock-up of my A-500 transmission, yet is still said to be the correct version for this transmission.

So anybody have a engine computer rebuilder recommendation where I can send off my original ECM, and then later, my current ECM, to be rebuilt?

I'd really prefer to send mine out and get mine back rebuilt. 9 years ago I paid to mail 3 ECMs back until I ordered the 'wrong' model on purpose, and then finally had overdrive after installation. This is also why I kept the original ECM and ate the core charge as they would not reimburse me for shipping their mistakes back to them.

I have to rebuild the 14 pin connector too, and hope to find a used core from a junkyard somewhere to which I will add new molex barrel connectors and pigtails for splicing 14 new uncompromised wires.

The original connector was compromised by techs probing the wires and not sealing the holes a MM from the connector, and my 'get me home' solutions, many many moons ago, contributed to the failure of the solder joints on the current ECM as excessive force was then required to reseat the connector.

And only now with a myriad of zip ties and car wash sponges exerting pressure just so, can I get from A to B and back, but I expect stalling to return anytime and then more 'connector manipulation' to recover drivability for another short while.
 
Hmmm, so you had the original go bad, got a rebuild, which was lacking functionality and is now bad...

Have you tried junkyards? Cars that were destroyed at young ages?
 
The original failed due to a transmission solenoid wire which chafed on the bell housing eventually grounding out. I found this and attended to it before replacing ECM.

First 3 ecms I bought were for a manual transmission or just a 3 speed and would not activate overdrive. It was not till I ordered the manual transmission ECM that I did have overdrive.

This ECM lasted 9 years, and would likely still be good had not one of the connectors been compromised by techs piercing the insulation, and also compromised by me jury rigging a"temporary, get me home" solution which caused too much force be required to reseat connector, and which became not so temporary.

There are only 2 model years that this particular ECM was utilized and there are federal, California manual and automatic transmission models, and the part numbers and descriptions as to which is which are all over the place and contra indicating on various sites.

Sites selling used ecms, not rebuilt, which claim to be in full operating condition, like to say there is no difference between the 9887 model and the 9889 model when personal experience tells me the difference is having overdrive or not.

Id have to be extremely lucky to find the exact model ECM in a junkyard and I'd probably pay not much less than if I buy a remanufactured model, or send mine of to be rebuilt.

I'll have to be a little less lucky to find the connector in a junkyard which I can cut out and rebuild and improve over the original with some added weather proofing and strain relief.
 
I guess my posts are a bit too wordy for most to bother with reading.

I actually just ordered the correct model ECM through Amazon with no option of a core charge return, so Will have 2 extra cores, at least one of which I would like to be sent off to be rebuilt and returned to me.

So anybody with good experiences with mailing out an ECM/PCM/ Engine computer to be rebuilt somewhere willing to share the company they used?
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
I guess my posts are a bit too wordy for most to bother with reading.

I actually just ordered the correct model ECM through Amazon with no option of a core charge return, so Will have 2 extra cores, at least one of which I would like to be sent off to be rebuilt and returned to me.

So anybody with good experiences with mailing out an ECM/PCM/ Engine computer to be rebuilt somewhere willing to share the company they used?


I use Auto ECM in Grand Prairie Texas, Had them fix 100's of ECM's/PCM's over the years, Mostly Chrysler/Motorola PCM's because their "cold/bad" solder jobs.

Auto ECM
I did have an issue one time with a PT Cruiser PCM they could not fix, This was a Base PT without antitheft & MT trans, Very hard to find a PCM, Borrowed a PCM from a Car Lot buddy that had a Base PT on his lot....Had to prove to Auto ECM that the PCM they fixed IS NOT fixed by swapping PCM's in their parking lot. This was a Hard Fault, No Crank Sensor signal/No Start.

Jumping through hoops to get my money back sucked, But that was the only issue I have ever had with them.
 
Last edited:
What does the dealership charge? Sometimes it isn't too bad.

When my dad had to get a BCM for his 2007 Pontiac G6, a rebuilt one cost about the same as the OEM unit, so an OEM unit was installed.
 
No new ecms available. Remans only.

I pulled 2 connectors in Good condition from a junkyard and will splice one in once reman'd Cardone ecm arrives.

Thanks for input.
 
The Junkyard connector, cleaned and tuned up, resolved all stalling issues, as well as a long standing code 53, internal ECM fault detected.

A reman'd cardone ECM arrived today, and will be sent back, as within seconds of engine starting, it illuminates the CEL with a code 27.

If it worked, I would have kept it as a back up, but will instead send in my original to be rebuilt. as acquiring something plug and play, when out and away, is obviously not as easy as clicking place order.
 
As an Update, the stalling returned a few days after splicing in a new( junkyard) 14 way connector.

More recently I depotted the area around the 14 way suspect connector on my original ECM which also had loose pins and resoldered them with a 140 watt weller gun. I plugged it in and it started the engine 7 times without issue. On the 8th time, relays started clicking on and off, the same symptoms as 9 years ago when I acquired the reman'd Cardone ECM.

The important thing is I did not ruin the original ECM by resoldering the 14 way connector, So I depotted and resoldered the 14 pins on my newer Cardone ECM.

14 days later, and no more stalls since.

I've also used Caig Deoxit D5, and Gold and Shield on all Connectors and Sensor connectors. The oxidation this was able to remove after liberal use of CRC QED cleaner was astounding.

The engine is running superbly. I think some of the sensor connector contacts were poor enough so as to not send the correct voltage back to the computer for proper Air fuel ratio and spark timing.
I'll be doing the rest of the connectors/ switches and relays everywhere in the Vehicle with Caig DeOxit products in a preventative maintenance mindset.

The Caig Deoxit products are simply impressive. I'd urge anybody with connector issues to get a can of D5 and clean them. I went a bit overboard with precision q tips and buffed pins and sockets until they gleamed like oiled chrome or brass, and the connectors reseated like butter.

I'll be using dielectric grease on the outside of connectors to prevent moisture intrusion, but DeOxit gold or Shield will be the only product next to the metal conductor surfaces from here on out. All the connectors which were heavily oxidized, were smothered in dielectric grease, and oxidation still occurred.

IMG_3758copy_zpsceb1f7c7.jpg


I Still need to have my original ECM rebuilt so I have a backup.
 
Old thread, but I'm gonna comment...

Anyone expecting to receive a perfectly manufactured PCM every time is living in a fantasy land... There are enough variables and intermittent issues that my guess is one in thirty or forty will have issues requiring return...
 
The Pins I re flowed the solder on were relatively large. I did not want to have to hold my 40 watt iron them for too long and lift the traces.

It has not stalled in the 10 months since I resoldered them.

Obviously on more delicate items where more precision and less heat is required, I would not use a 140 watt soldering gun.

I still want to send my original ECM off somewhere to be rebuilt, to have as a backup.
 
I have a number of 80's GM vehicles and have had two ECM failures. 40 years ago I was certified for 'High Reliability' soldering, but no more. My solution was as mentioned=sourcing 'known good' spares. This can take a while to accomplish, but easier with the internet and each vehicle now has it's correct spare.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Old thread, but I'm gonna comment...

Anyone expecting to receive a perfectly manufactured PCM every time is living in a fantasy land... There are enough variables and intermittent issues that my guess is one in thirty or forty will have issues requiring return...



That's why the warranty is more important than the brand.
 
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