Manual Locking Hubs...Synthetic Diff Oil a Waste?

[AdmiralYoda]

I have an 87 Toyota 4Runner that is my daily driver. It has manual locking hubs so for 99.99% of the time the front differential gear is not spinning.

The 4Runner is not subject to heavy duty usage so the need for synthetic is largely for extended service life and extra splippery-ness for better fuel economy. I'm changing all the other fluids to synthetic but wonder if it is just a waste of money for the front differential.

The only time the hubs get locked and the front diff gets a chance to spin is in the snow....and I'm moving along at a snails pace anyways. So what do you think....just clean cheap 75W-90 GL-5 or spend the extra coin for synthetic???

Thanks!

 

[Donald]

Given the diff take maybe 2 QTs of gear oil is cost really an issue?

If you are going to go for synthetic, only one worth considering Amsoil SVG.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

Donald, I'm cheap...but that is a good point considering cost. Another couple bucks over how many tens of thousands of miles??? Probably not a big deal.

But I would appreciate your opinion on why Amsoil SVG is a superior product. I was considering Mobil-1 just because it is available at Walmart.

Thanks!

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: AdmiralYoda
Donald, I'm cheap...but that is a good point considering cost. Another couple bucks over how many tens of thousands of miles??? Probably not a big deal.

But I would appreciate your opinion on why Amsoil SVG is a superior product. I was considering Mobil-1 just because it is available at Walmart.

Thanks!


I used to have a '88 runner, and presently run a '00.
One thing to consider is that the oil and gears are subject to oxidation even when they are not turning. I have always found the gear lube drained from the front diff to be in much worse condition than the rear, when run the same time. So, for my, synthetic is worth it. But it is probably moot, since you will NEVER wear the front diff out.

As far as Amsoil being the only choice.......Not for me. I use pedestrian Mobil 1 and find it to be plenty good enough. If I felt the need for something better than that, I would use a redline product. I actually have Redline Shockproof Heavy in my '00 right now. But I put it in when trying to diagnose a noise, which turned out to be the rear pinion bearing.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

I got this 4Runner in 99 because it was rusted out and had a blown motor. I put a junkyard motor in there and drove it for a year but parked it in the woods for 13 years while I got distracted with other things.

Then 2 years ago I began restoring it and now its done. Oddly enough, before I put it on the road this summer I changed the fluid out with Walmart SuperTech just to rinse out any of the old gunk.

The stuff that had been sitting in the front diff for AT LEAST 15 years was clean as a whistle. The opposite of what I was expecting.

 

[Donald]

If I did not order anything else from Amsoil then I might skip the Amsoil SVG. But I order ATF, gear oil and some OPE oil from Amsoil.

While I think its probably the best, its a PIA to order it vs go to Walmart.

I am sure Mobil 1 is almost as good and for 99% of the people it would be fine.

 

[Shannow]

Same boat with my Nissan...hubs get locked in when it snows (once or twice a year), or every couple of weeks that I give them a spin.

I'm therefore not worried about parasitic drag, so dino is no problem on that respect.

I use dino and change it every 18 months or so.

 

[RhondaHonda]

I'd spring for the Mobil 1 although I'm sure the cheap stuff would be more than sufficient. Last diff fluid change I used Redline 75w85 as Jeep called for it instead of 75w90 although I'm sure that'd be close enough. No complaints but I did have to order it.

 

[Bgallagher]

I don't see it being worth it for a car of that age. Do the flush with the cheap stuff and fill it with a quality 75w-90. Pennzoil or Valvoline and call it a day.

 

[mongo161]

I have a 1997 T4R, SR5, automatic 4wd and I changed over my Front and Rear Diff and transfer case to Mobil 1. I also ex-changed out the ATF to Mobil 1 and DuraLube Red at 1 ounce per quart of M1 and I'm also running M1 ATF in the power steering after the fluid flush and exchange. So far.....smooth sailing for the past 3 years.

 

[CT8]

Nope.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Important to give them a spin every now and then.

Synthetic or not is for you decide.

Every vehicle I own deserves it.

Even supertech has blend or synth choices, and nothing wrong with autopart store branded fluids.