Valve Cover pics 2005 Ion Redline LSJ 115K miles

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VC had to come off to install the updated timing chain tensioner. Also got new plugs, and a tune, which required more beating on it than the 11 months I have had it so far combined.

I couldn't get better pics, but it looked pretty good for the condition the rest of the car was in. I bought it at about 108K miles, did a few short changes with some MMO in the sump, and am about to hit 3000 miles on the walmart special oil. It's a 2.0 with a 6L sump, and synthetic 5-30 is called for for 5K miles I think. My thoughts are walmart special which is 5 qts of 5-30, and have them put in Rotella 5-40 for the sixth qt. VC will come off again and be replaced as I would like to be able to install the coil covers and injector covers, and the bolt holes have most of the bolts broken off inside.

Second from the right/bottom spark plug well had a plug loose when I pulled the plugs previously. I have checked them, and when we installed the new plugs there was no sign of stripped threads or a loose plug.
 
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Be careful substituting 5w30 when 5w20 in cold temps, especially in cars with larger sumps and smaller engines.

The reason that I say that is some manufactuers require a 5w20, but with the volume of oil it almost never reaches temps hot enough for it to be a 20 weight. So at the cooler tempature it is acting like a 30 weight.
Add a very cold winter, and it makes life interesting as far as gas mileage.

That being said, good call on the Rotella, great cleaning oil with an extremely low pour point. It should significantly boost the add pack of the bulk oil wally world is using.

And I am impressed at how clean it is, but with the damage you state it has.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Be careful substituting 5w30 when 5w20 in cold temps, especially in cars with larger sumps and smaller engines.

The reason that I say that is some manufactuers require a 5w20, but with the volume of oil it almost never reaches temps hot enough for it to be a 20 weight. So at the cooler tempature it is acting like a 30 weight.
Add a very cold winter, and it makes life interesting as far as gas mileage.

That being said, good call on the Rotella, great cleaning oil with an extremely low pour point. It should significantly boost the add pack of the bulk oil wally world is using.

And I am impressed at how clean it is, but with the damage you state it has.


This is an interesting statement^^^Almost like saying that, 5w30 would be preferable in the winter time during short trips. OR did I interpret this incorrectly?
 
Your entire post is absolutely ridiculous.

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Be careful substituting 5w30 when 5w20 in cold temps, especially in cars with larger sumps and smaller engines.

The reason that I say that is some manufactuers require a 5w20, but with the volume of oil it almost never reaches temps hot enough for it to be a 20 weight. So at the cooler tempature it is acting like a 30 weight.
Add a very cold winter, and it makes life interesting as far as gas mileage.

That being said, good call on the Rotella, great cleaning oil with an extremely low pour point. It should significantly boost the add pack of the bulk oil wally world is using.

And I am impressed at how clean it is, but with the damage you state it has.
 
Why? What kind of thinking is this? You're at Wal-Mart anyway, just use M1 0W-40 and be better off overall.

Originally Posted By: Shaman
My thoughts are walmart special which is 5 qts of 5-30, and have them put in Rotella 5-40 for the sixth qt.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
This is an interesting statement^^^Almost like saying that, 5w30 would be preferable in the winter time during short trips. OR did I interpret this incorrectly?


No...the other way around...and there is truth to his post in some situations. If you have a relatively large sump and do shorter trips in colder weather, the oil may never truly reach operating temperature, meaning that it's already running at a heavier viscosity than it needs to be. Factor in oil that's heavier than recommended, and you may have more viscosity in the sump than you think you have. For shorter trips and/or slower driving (traffic, etc), lighter oils make a lot of sense because they'll tend to run closer to the intended operational viscosity.

It may not necessarily apply here, because the OP said that 5W-30 was the specified oil. But if your car calls for a 5W-20, and you run a heavier grade than required, your oil may actually stay heavier than what you think. Many people believe that "5W-20" is the oil's viscosity, but it isn't: that's the oil's grade. Viscosity is an entirely different concept, one that even car guys don't often grasp.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Be careful substituting 5w30 when 5w20 in cold temps, especially in cars with larger sumps and smaller engines.

The reason that I say that is some manufactuers require a 5w20, but with the volume of oil it almost never reaches temps hot enough for it to be a 20 weight. So at the cooler tempature it is acting like a 30 weight.
Add a very cold winter, and it makes life interesting as far as gas mileage.

That being said, good call on the Rotella, great cleaning oil with an extremely low pour point. It should significantly boost the add pack of the bulk oil wally world is using.

And I am impressed at how clean it is, but with the damage you state it has.

Interesting statement- in cold weather 5w-20 acts like a 5w-20. 5w-30 acts like a 5w-30. The 30 makes for worse gas mileage.....
 
Apparently, I did misinterpret the statement. I understand it better the way you described and, it is the way I always thought it to be. Thanks for clear this up!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Why? What kind of thinking is this? You're at Wal-Mart anyway, just use M1 0W-40 and be better off overall.

Originally Posted By: Shaman
My thoughts are walmart special which is 5 qts of 5-30, and have them put in Rotella 5-40 for the sixth qt.


Because the car calls for 5-30 on the cap. 0-40 isn't a 5-30. If anything, I should probably go 5-20 plus 1 qt of 5-40. I may go full syn after the final set of mods is done (80 lb injectors, 2.7" pulley, E85, Cobalt SS washer tank on passenger's side feeding water/meth kit running 30% meth and tune) as there will be more load on the oil and engine than there is currently.

GregK, no, but the Ion Redline does. It's a water/air intercooled supercharged engine that held a record on the Ring for several years. It's a race bred engine.

SuperDave, the timing tensioner, power steering, ignition, and a whole lot more were bad designs. The car, when I got it, had two long key scrapes along the driver's side, 4 different tires in 3 different sizes, solid engine and trans mounts, and several other issues. The cosmetic I don't care about, as the car is an A to B car and won't be in any shows. They are always sold much lower than KBB as they are orphans, and the rare, "performance" car that no one knows about. I have not seen another since I bought it, and I travel all over Kentucky. There is supposed to be one living about 2 hours south, but work doesn't get me down that far south.
 
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Your thinking is illogical. You modified the engine, why would you not modify your oil choice. How do you know 5W-30 is still appropriate? What makes you think 0W-40 wouldn't work well in your application? Because the fill cap says so?

Originally Posted By: Shaman
Because the car calls for 5-30 on the cap.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Your thinking is illogical. You modified the engine, why would you not modify your oil choice. How do you know 5W-30 is still appropriate? What makes you think 0W-40 wouldn't work well in your application? Because the fill cap says so?

Originally Posted By: Shaman
Because the car calls for 5-30 on the cap.


OP said he got a tune...maybe he shoukd check with the tune provider to see if a viscosity increase is recommended.
 
On the other hand, why would you? What changed?

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Your thinking is illogical. You modified the engine, why would you not modify your oil choice. How do you know 5W-30 is still appropriate? What makes you think 0W-40 wouldn't work well in your application? Because the fill cap says so?
 
Because the the big builds are running the same stuff. If a car with E, nitrous, turbo at twice or more the boost, and 5-10 drag passes a week is ok with 5-30, I don't see a reason a simple Stage 2 Redline would need any different. 6 liters of oil leaves a lot of play. My car is about the minimum of mods for most people that mod these cars. BPU if you will.
 
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