I want to see some pictures of engines that have run Dino there lives and go at least 5000 miles preferably. We may run Dino in the pt cruiser if the results are good enough I may even consider it in the focus given its quite a bit cheaper. All pics and info is appreciated I am trying to convince myself and my stubborn wife that synthetic may not be worth it. Thanks all.
show me your Dino oil engine pics please
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Synthetics really are not worth it unless your into extended OCI.
The benefits (beyond better cold start/cold flow) most daily drivers will not see.
If your interested in doing 5k mile runs use a name brand convention and you will not have a problem.
No pics of engines but I do have theses both ran on conventional thier whole life. OCI varies between 5k-7.5k Pictures are a few months old but yeah.
It might not hurt just to use synthetics to please the lady but if your doing it at a quick lube shop by all means do conventional. Iv seen a $50 price diffrence between synthetic and conventional.
This is basic knowledge but I figured I would include it if she wanted to read it herself.
The benefits (beyond better cold start/cold flow) most daily drivers will not see.
If your interested in doing 5k mile runs use a name brand convention and you will not have a problem.
No pics of engines but I do have theses both ran on conventional thier whole life. OCI varies between 5k-7.5k Pictures are a few months old but yeah.
It might not hurt just to use synthetics to please the lady but if your doing it at a quick lube shop by all means do conventional. Iv seen a $50 price diffrence between synthetic and conventional.
This is basic knowledge but I figured I would include it if she wanted to read it herself.
I CAN SAY that synthetic is worth it and will brake down why.
Pix above were taking years after using synthetic to help the seals. Did not take photos before synthetic.
The first half of my car's life I was OCI at 5k. Completely Valvoline White Bottle and a 12 pack or two of Castrol GTX. The second half of life I was doing 6500 to 9k OCIs on 10w40. The highest I did was 11.3k. Never again!
Notice that my car was now consuming oil and spent the money for Valvoline SynPower 5w30. 2 months later that oil was gone because I had to top off a quart every 700 miles. Ran through the old stash of heavy 20w50 Valvoline, Valvoline 50wt Racing oil. Bought jugs of 10w40. Then Mobil 1 HM 10w40.
Started to replace one thing after the other and realized it was a design flaw of the PCV Valve.
Pics of the oil pump says not to do more than 5k and not thicker oil than whats called for.
Now here is why synthetic is better. My oil pump
would not have been "caked" from the extended OCIs with thicker oil.
Valvoline White Bottle 5qt jug @ Walmart is $16.74. 5k miles. 300 miles per dollar
Valvoline SynPower 5qt jug @ Walmart is $26. 10k miles. 385 miles per dollar
Difference of $9.44, 5k miles, and 85 more miles per dollar.
Had I gone with Mobil Super 5K (MS5K), Mobil 1, and M1 Extended Performance(EP).
MS5K @ Walmart is 14.17. 5k miles. 355 miles per dollar
M1 @ Walmart is $25. 10k miles. 400 miles per dollar
M1EP @ Walmart is $27. 15k miles. 555 miles per dollar
And Redline I would have pushed that oil to 20k miles in stop and go city. $10 a qt, $50 total, 400 miles per dollar.
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 15k city miles. 300 miles per dollar
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 30k highway miles. 600 miles per dollar
Pix above were taking years after using synthetic to help the seals. Did not take photos before synthetic.
The first half of my car's life I was OCI at 5k. Completely Valvoline White Bottle and a 12 pack or two of Castrol GTX. The second half of life I was doing 6500 to 9k OCIs on 10w40. The highest I did was 11.3k. Never again!
Notice that my car was now consuming oil and spent the money for Valvoline SynPower 5w30. 2 months later that oil was gone because I had to top off a quart every 700 miles. Ran through the old stash of heavy 20w50 Valvoline, Valvoline 50wt Racing oil. Bought jugs of 10w40. Then Mobil 1 HM 10w40.
Started to replace one thing after the other and realized it was a design flaw of the PCV Valve.
Pics of the oil pump says not to do more than 5k and not thicker oil than whats called for.
Now here is why synthetic is better. My oil pump
would not have been "caked" from the extended OCIs with thicker oil.
Valvoline White Bottle 5qt jug @ Walmart is $16.74. 5k miles. 300 miles per dollar
Valvoline SynPower 5qt jug @ Walmart is $26. 10k miles. 385 miles per dollar
Difference of $9.44, 5k miles, and 85 more miles per dollar.
Had I gone with Mobil Super 5K (MS5K), Mobil 1, and M1 Extended Performance(EP).
MS5K @ Walmart is 14.17. 5k miles. 355 miles per dollar
M1 @ Walmart is $25. 10k miles. 400 miles per dollar
M1EP @ Walmart is $27. 15k miles. 555 miles per dollar
And Redline I would have pushed that oil to 20k miles in stop and go city. $10 a qt, $50 total, 400 miles per dollar.
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 15k city miles. 300 miles per dollar
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 30k highway miles. 600 miles per dollar
Our shop truck... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3472494/Searchpage/1/Main/222759/Words/tacoma/Search/true/400,000_miles!_Pic!#Post3472494
I won't have any pics till I take the cover off next week but I have never run a full sythetic and no car of mine or the family's has ever had an oil related problem or any form of excessive wear after a long and sometimes abusive life.
As stated the only reason I can see an advantage to synthetics is in extended OCIs and maybe in higher performance engines which it doesn't sound like you are driving
I personally run Durablend at 5-7,000km (3-4,5000 mile) changes because that gives you the best of both worlds and is actually a better performer than some fully synthetics, a fair bit cheaper too
As stated the only reason I can see an advantage to synthetics is in extended OCIs and maybe in higher performance engines which it doesn't sound like you are driving
I personally run Durablend at 5-7,000km (3-4,5000 mile) changes because that gives you the best of both worlds and is actually a better performer than some fully synthetics, a fair bit cheaper too
Originally Posted By: 285south
I CAN SAY that synthetic is worth it and will brake down why.
Pix above were taking years after using synthetic to help the seals. Did not take photos before synthetic.
The first half of my car's life I was OCI at 5k. Completely Valvoline White Bottle and a 12 pack or two of Castrol GTX. The second half of life I was doing 6500 to 9k OCIs on 10w40. The highest I did was 11.3k. Never again!
Notice that my car was now consuming oil and spent the money for Valvoline SynPower 5w30. 2 months later that oil was gone because I had to top off a quart every 700 miles. Ran through the old stash of heavy 20w50 Valvoline, Valvoline 50wt Racing oil. Bought jugs of 10w40. Then Mobil 1 HM 10w40.
Started to replace one thing after the other and realized it was a design flaw of the PCV Valve.
Pics of the oil pump says not to do more than 5k and not thicker oil than whats called for.
Now here is why synthetic is better. My oil pump
would not have been "caked" from the extended OCIs with thicker oil.
Valvoline White Bottle 5qt jug @ Walmart is $16.74. 5k miles. 300 miles per dollar
Valvoline SynPower 5qt jug @ Walmart is $26. 10k miles. 385 miles per dollar
Difference of $9.44, 5k miles, and 85 more miles per dollar.
Had I gone with Mobil Super 5K (MS5K), Mobil 1, and M1 Extended Performance(EP).
MS5K @ Walmart is 14.17. 5k miles. 355 miles per dollar
M1 @ Walmart is $25. 10k miles. 400 miles per dollar
M1EP @ Walmart is $27. 15k miles. 555 miles per dollar
And Redline I would have pushed that oil to 20k miles in stop and go city. $10 a qt, $50 total, 400 miles per dollar.
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 15k city miles. 300 miles per dollar
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 30k highway miles. 600 miles per dollar
You went 6500-9000 mile OCIs on dino with one run being 11.3? Am I reading this right?
I CAN SAY that synthetic is worth it and will brake down why.
Pix above were taking years after using synthetic to help the seals. Did not take photos before synthetic.
The first half of my car's life I was OCI at 5k. Completely Valvoline White Bottle and a 12 pack or two of Castrol GTX. The second half of life I was doing 6500 to 9k OCIs on 10w40. The highest I did was 11.3k. Never again!
Notice that my car was now consuming oil and spent the money for Valvoline SynPower 5w30. 2 months later that oil was gone because I had to top off a quart every 700 miles. Ran through the old stash of heavy 20w50 Valvoline, Valvoline 50wt Racing oil. Bought jugs of 10w40. Then Mobil 1 HM 10w40.
Started to replace one thing after the other and realized it was a design flaw of the PCV Valve.
Pics of the oil pump says not to do more than 5k and not thicker oil than whats called for.
Now here is why synthetic is better. My oil pump
would not have been "caked" from the extended OCIs with thicker oil.
Valvoline White Bottle 5qt jug @ Walmart is $16.74. 5k miles. 300 miles per dollar
Valvoline SynPower 5qt jug @ Walmart is $26. 10k miles. 385 miles per dollar
Difference of $9.44, 5k miles, and 85 more miles per dollar.
Had I gone with Mobil Super 5K (MS5K), Mobil 1, and M1 Extended Performance(EP).
MS5K @ Walmart is 14.17. 5k miles. 355 miles per dollar
M1 @ Walmart is $25. 10k miles. 400 miles per dollar
M1EP @ Walmart is $27. 15k miles. 555 miles per dollar
And Redline I would have pushed that oil to 20k miles in stop and go city. $10 a qt, $50 total, 400 miles per dollar.
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 15k city miles. 300 miles per dollar
Redline is $50 for 5qts. 30k highway miles. 600 miles per dollar
You went 6500-9000 mile OCIs on dino with one run being 11.3? Am I reading this right?
wemay
Site Donor 2023
dlundblad's comprehension is the same as mine...
Originally Posted By: 3800Series
Synthetics really are not worth it unless your into extended OCI.
Or your oil temps are high enough that dino would thin out too much or burn up.
Or you have a lot of fuel dilution and the oil needs to cope with that.
Or your engine is prone to sludge.
Or you drive lots of short trips.
Or you need the best possible cold pumping properties.
Synthetics really are not worth it unless your into extended OCI.
Or your oil temps are high enough that dino would thin out too much or burn up.
Or you have a lot of fuel dilution and the oil needs to cope with that.
Or your engine is prone to sludge.
Or you drive lots of short trips.
Or you need the best possible cold pumping properties.
I wish I had a pic- I had a 1994 Plymouth Sundance I put about 200K on. A little over 100K I changed the valve cover gasket (2.5L 4 cyl). Cylinder head and cam cover were clean, shiny and awesome looking. 3K oil changes with typically Napa conventional 5w30 and whatever filter was on sale. This was about 1999, before digital cameras were the thing. Reasonable OCI and good other maintenance (PCV, etc) and conventional oil is just fine, unless the manufacturer calls for something else (Corvettes, etc)
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: 3800Series
Synthetics really are not worth it unless your into extended OCI.
Or your oil temps are high enough that dino would thin out too much or burn up.
Or you have a lot of fuel dilution and the oil needs to cope with that.
Or your engine is prone to sludge.
Or you drive lots of short trips.
Or you need the best possible cold pumping properties.
Synthetics make no difference in dilution as has been shown through countless uoa here. Shorter oci have.
Again, if short tripped, conventional oil and be fine, just don't extend oci to lengths approaching what synthetics were made for.
In extremes of cold or hot weather (Canadian winters/desert), yes a synthetic may be the best choice.
Synthetics may also be beneficial to turbo engines (although many mfrs of modern day versions advise it is not necessary).
Many will bring up dilution in direct injection vehicles... But if you fear dilution will have a detrimental effect on the life of your vehicle and no oil has countered dilution effectively but shorter oci have, then aquality conventional at those shorter oci may be worth it to some. Also in question with d.i. is intake valve deposits. Well, every report/study ive read is theory only. Many vehicles using lower Noack oils still got these deposits and many didnt. This is not a conventional v synthetic argument I'm making. This is a, conventional oil's get to much [censored] argument.
I say use what's spec'd. If synthetic is recommended, use it. If not, the choice is yours and don't let people beat you over the head for it.
Originally Posted By: 3800Series
Synthetics really are not worth it unless your into extended OCI.
Or your oil temps are high enough that dino would thin out too much or burn up.
Or you have a lot of fuel dilution and the oil needs to cope with that.
Or your engine is prone to sludge.
Or you drive lots of short trips.
Or you need the best possible cold pumping properties.
Synthetics make no difference in dilution as has been shown through countless uoa here. Shorter oci have.
Again, if short tripped, conventional oil and be fine, just don't extend oci to lengths approaching what synthetics were made for.
In extremes of cold or hot weather (Canadian winters/desert), yes a synthetic may be the best choice.
Synthetics may also be beneficial to turbo engines (although many mfrs of modern day versions advise it is not necessary).
Many will bring up dilution in direct injection vehicles... But if you fear dilution will have a detrimental effect on the life of your vehicle and no oil has countered dilution effectively but shorter oci have, then aquality conventional at those shorter oci may be worth it to some. Also in question with d.i. is intake valve deposits. Well, every report/study ive read is theory only. Many vehicles using lower Noack oils still got these deposits and many didnt. This is not a conventional v synthetic argument I'm making. This is a, conventional oil's get to much [censored] argument.
I say use what's spec'd. If synthetic is recommended, use it. If not, the choice is yours and don't let people beat you over the head for it.
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Synthetics make no difference in dilution as has been shown through countless uoa here. Shorter oci have.
Didn't say they reduce fuel dilution. What they do is hold up better.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Again, if short tripped, conventional oil and be fine, just don't extend oci to lengths approaching what synthetics were made for.
Short trips pose two kinds of problems: contamination (from fuel and combustion byproducts) and cold starts. Short OCIs cope with the first, but not the second. Synthetics cope with both.
Synthetics make no difference in dilution as has been shown through countless uoa here. Shorter oci have.
Didn't say they reduce fuel dilution. What they do is hold up better.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Again, if short tripped, conventional oil and be fine, just don't extend oci to lengths approaching what synthetics were made for.
Short trips pose two kinds of problems: contamination (from fuel and combustion byproducts) and cold starts. Short OCIs cope with the first, but not the second. Synthetics cope with both.
Here's mine linked. Engine now has ~215K miles.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2682213
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2682213
Here's a fill hole pic I posted before of a well maintained 2000 Buick Century. My father was the original owner and he did like clock work, 3,000 mile dino oil changes. The car had well under 100K miles when I took this shot. I won't use dino oil in any vehicle I own as a result. Flame suit on. Before someone tells me there was something wrong with the engine let me say there were no engine problems, gasket problems, or anything else wrong with that engine. The use was severe service. The car runs like a top.
Upon further review I'll post one pic of the 165k mi valve train and now 215k. Very satisfied with the results and little to change. As for the real value comment, I consider a purchased new 01 vehicle running on dino and still humming along nicely to be a great value and of great value. To each their own. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2682213
Originally Posted By: tig1
Demarpaint,
My sisters Buick has about 90K with 3-4K OCIs on dino. Her engine looks about like yours.
I'd love to see how synthetic would have done in mine since new. I'd be willing to wager it would be a lot cleaner than what I found.
Demarpaint,
My sisters Buick has about 90K with 3-4K OCIs on dino. Her engine looks about like yours.
I'd love to see how synthetic would have done in mine since new. I'd be willing to wager it would be a lot cleaner than what I found.
Yes Frank i saw this engine and had my scanner on it. It does run good, nice fuel trims, its a good runner for sure.
This is why a lot of mechanics are stuck on the 3K OCI. Its not just about money, they see engines like this all the time from the inside out.
When you see an engine that you maintain personally getting ugly under the valve covers on 5K Grp III synthetic OCI that is way before the OLM comes on, it makes you wonder.
Some engines it seems could care less, others you look at them crosswise and they start getting deposits.
This is why a lot of mechanics are stuck on the 3K OCI. Its not just about money, they see engines like this all the time from the inside out.
When you see an engine that you maintain personally getting ugly under the valve covers on 5K Grp III synthetic OCI that is way before the OLM comes on, it makes you wonder.
Some engines it seems could care less, others you look at them crosswise and they start getting deposits.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Upon further review I'll post one pic of the 165k mi valve train and now 215k. Very satisfied with the results and little to change. As for the real value comment, I consider a purchased new 01 vehicle running on dino and still humming along nicely to be a great value and of great value. To each their own. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2682213
Agreed. The 'of any real value' comment is rather presumptuous. It's also what I was talking about when I posted earlier. Some folks find the need to use passive aggressive statements when addressing a conventional oil user. Not everyone, mind you, but enough.
Upon further review I'll post one pic of the 165k mi valve train and now 215k. Very satisfied with the results and little to change. As for the real value comment, I consider a purchased new 01 vehicle running on dino and still humming along nicely to be a great value and of great value. To each their own. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2682213
Agreed. The 'of any real value' comment is rather presumptuous. It's also what I was talking about when I posted earlier. Some folks find the need to use passive aggressive statements when addressing a conventional oil user. Not everyone, mind you, but enough.
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