Start engine periodically during winter storage?

[Patman]

I know that the general consensus is that if you're storing a car for the winter, that you should not be starting the engine at all unless you plan on driving it and getting the oil good and hot. But I wanted to get a discussion going on the technical reasoning behind this. I know that when you start an engine and idle it, you won't get the oil hot enough to burn off the condensation, and so then when you shut it down it could cause more problems. But what about the fact that an engine is sitting in one position for many months at a time? Couldn't this cause problems for various parts of the valvetrain? And what about the possibility of rust forming on some of the engine parts as well, could this be a factor on an engine that is sitting for long periods of time?

I was also wondering if starting the engine once or twice a month but only running it for 10 or 15 seconds might be a good idea? That way you circulate the oil a little bit, and get the engine into a different position but with such a short running time it might not have a chance to build up any moisture?

 

[Mr Nice]

What type of vehicle ?

 

[Danh]

During winter storage there's more than enough residual oil sticking to engine parts to prevent corrosion, so there's really no need to do any more.

Any engine start that doesn't get the oil fully up to operating temperature creates the opportunity for both water and fuel contamination of the oil, neither of which is helpful. And starting the engine for 10 or 15 seconds will not only create fuel dilution but may remove some of the oil clinging to engine parts but not fully replace it as the oil in the sump will be pretty thick.

Lots and lots of people have stored lots and lots of unstarted cars over the winter with success, so the rule seems to work: leave the engine alone unless you can drive it on the road for 10-20 miles.

 

[Inspecktor]

I agree with Danh- leave it alone unless you plan on driving it until it has been at operating temp for 15 minutes or more.

 

[Kuato]

Yep, just let it sit is the usual advice.

But I like your outside the box thinking in relation to other parts, my first thought after reading was that a valve spring or two might be almost fully compressed for the winter.

Why not just turn the crankshaft by hand every couple months, that way no fuel, heat or condensation change, but valve springs would get some relief.

 

[Colt45ws]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
Yep, just let it sit is the usual advice.

But I like your outside the box thinking in relation to other parts, my first thought after reading was that a valve spring or two might be almost fully compressed for the winter.

Why not just turn the crankshaft by hand every couple months, that way no fuel, heat or condensation change, but valve springs would get some relief.

I know on my Fords they have a "flood clear" mode where the injectors are disabled if you hold the pedal to the floor and crank it.
I don't know if others do this or if newer fords will still do this, but it could be hijacked to do what you are describing.

 

[Nick1994]

What about pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking it over? No fuel getting in there and you get to move stuff around.

 

[expat]

Just Bump the starter if you feel you need to change the engine position.

No need ti fire it up.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: expat
Just Bump the starter if you feel you need to change the engine position.

No need ti fire it up.


That is a good idea, but with a lot more cars having push button starters nowadays it's not really possible anymore.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
What type of vehicle ?



I was just talking in general, but I guess you could say I was curious if I would do this with my Corvette.

I will most likely just leave it alone and not start it at all, I just wanted to get a discussion going here since it seems to be a popular topic at this time of year. I hear a lot of people that say they start their engine once a week and run it for a half hour or more, and I usually chime in and say that's not a good idea, but that usually doesn't convince them.

Last winter was my first winter storage time with the 2005 Corvette and I was able to take it out for a nice two hour drive when the roads were dry and free of salt for a very brief period, but the rest of the winter the car just sat in my garage and I did not start it. Hopefully I'll be able to do the same again this year.

 

[xxch4osxx]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
What about pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking it over? No fuel getting in there and you get to move stuff around.
I like this idea.

 

[spasm3]

bumping the starter is a good idea. My olds ciera was left sitting outdoors in the shade by the previous owner for 3 years untouched. It had 29k on it. I had a hard time starting it and turning it over. I finally took the plugs out and one cyl was full of water! It was from that intake or exhaust valve sitting open and condensaton from several seasons accumulating in that cyl. A bunch of rusty water came from that cyl. Head gasket was fine.

 

[gfh77665]

Long story short; I have kept at least one vehicle stored for 1-2.5 year intervals at a time, for 15+ years.

After a lot of research from multiple sources, I believe the best strategy is to start and run for 20-25 minuets every two months. For you storing just over the winter, 1-1.5 months would be good.

After a 2-3 min idle, I increase RPM's to 1500 or so to bring engine temps to normal operating levels. I also put the trans through all the gears (at idle). I cut the wheels right and left a few times, and operate all the power mirrors, windows, WS wipers, and I run the A/C compressor.

All this simulates a "drive" and brings the temps up adequately. I disconnect the cable from the positive battery terminal and repeat in two months. Of course I use Stabil (or 2X Stabil) in the gas tank.

This system has served me extremely well for years. Hope it helps.

 

[gfh77665]

To follow up, either start it and run to full temp, or don't start at all. The quick start/stops would not be good, IMO.

 

[OneEyeJack]

Emergency power generators that I work with are never started unless they are run enough to get the whole system up to normal operating temperature. The most wear is not experienced during cranking. It's the period from just started until normal temps. We have proof of this through lab work and tear downs over many years of experience. If you're storing your vehicle for the winter get it properly prepared, add a fuel stabilizer and fill the fuel tank, disconnect the battery but connect the battery to a "battery minder" and do all the other prep stuff needed for storage. Then leave it alone until you're ready to put the vehicle back in service.

Be careful about cranking the engine in modern vehicles. In many situations the act of "hitting the starter" is really sending a signal to the computer to start the engine. Once the signal is sent it's out of your hands. You can let off the key the instant you make contact and the start cycle will still continue. The old way was to "hit the starter" and hold the key until the engine started, then back off to "run". Be sure you know which method of starting applies to your vehicle.

 

[demarpaint]

Aside from washing, waxing, etc. etc.... When storing vehicles for long periods of time, such as 4 of my son's deployments the car was never started. We went for gas, added stabil, and a full qt of MMO, and filled up. Drove the car got it good and hot changed the oil, and filter. Then he/we took the car for about a 30 minute ride to where it was going to be parked and left it there. We disconnected the battery and left the car.

I felt the MMO might leave a light residual coating in the injectors etc. which would help preventing flash rusting, or the injectors sticking. I can't swear to it helping or not, but he had no problems to report aside from needing a jump and air in the tires. Typical deployments were 6-9 months, some through the winter.

 

[RF Overlord]

The car in my sig basically sits from somewhere between Thanksgiving/Christmas and April/May. I use a battery tender and since it's a Ford, I crank it with the pedal down until I start to see oil pressure. I stop cranking for 10 seconds or so, then start it normally. Never any problems in 10 years.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Emergency power generators that I work with are never started unless they are run enough to get the whole system up to normal operating temperature. The most wear is not experienced during cranking. It's the period from just started until normal temps. We have proof of this through lab work and tear downs over many years of experience. If you're storing your vehicle for the winter get it properly prepared, add a fuel stabilizer and fill the fuel tank, disconnect the battery but connect the battery to a "battery minder" and do all the other prep stuff needed for storage. Then leave it alone until you're ready to put the vehicle back in service.

Be careful about cranking the engine in modern vehicles. In many situations the act of "hitting the starter" is really sending a signal to the computer to start the engine. Once the signal is sent it's out of your hands. You can let off the key the instant you make contact and the start cycle will still continue. The old way was to "hit the starter" and hold the key until the engine started, then back off to "run". Be sure you know which method of starting applies to your vehicle.



+1

The wear studies using radioisotopes labeled rings or liners clearly showed highly accelerated wear during warmup phase. Especially with fuel containing sulfur. Clearly a chemical problem.

 

[fdcg27]

How many miles do you have on the Corvette these days?
IIRC, you used to use the car during the winter.
WRT your question, if you ever take an engine apart that's sat for years, you'll still find oil on all of the internal surfaces and no rust. I'd doubt that being compressed over a few months will cause any harm to the valve springs and there won't be any wear on any part of the engine because there is no movement.
I've winter stored various cars over the years and have never run them until ready to return them to use in the spring.
I've never seen any problems doing this.

 

[gathermewool]

Cranking for a short period, without starting, will most likely do no good and may only serve to shorten the life of the battery drastically.

Springs are designed to be compressed, so even if one cam lobe is fully extended I wouldn't expect it to impact the life of the valve spring. Can anyone comment on this specifically and confirm or deny my guess?

When I stored my car in the past I drove it monthly, on a clear day, to keep the battery relatively healthy,as well as everything else that would benefit from frequent operation, such as the AC compressor.