OTC vs OEM coolant

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
1,708
Location
Austin, TX
Folks:

I wanted to start this thread to understand the motivations to use OTC coolants over OEM coolant (other than price which is a mute distraction). I am a big fan of using OEM coolants to play it safe. There are folks who claim near complete flush to remove the OEM coolant (one begs to ask is the OEM coolant substandard compared to OTC coolant) and then any OTC coolant will be just fine to just make a point.

Pl. chime in...
 
I use over the counter longlife coolant with no problems at all for myself and customers. If I was topping off then I would use what it has but the customer would have to pay the difference.

As long as you get all the old stuff out, a proper flush, then you should be fine.
 
I assume you are referring to Toyota's SLLC. I began using the ZEREX Asian in my Toyota's a few years ago and have had no ill effects. Back then I found out that Ashland made the coolant for Toyota (at the time, don't know if it has changed) and Ashland makes Zerex. Just my 2¢.
 
I'll bite.

I try to use OEM coolant because it should have a much higher charge of additives. I usually flush the system and use Mopar G-05 because it is just about the only decent product I can get here at a decent price. A gallon of pure Mopar G-05 is costing me just under $15 [it used to be a lot cheaper] versus a gallon of pure Roshfrans Dexclone for just under $12. If the cooling system is in poor condition I use the Dexclone in the hope that its weak additive concentration won't be loosening too much scale at once and causing leaks.

I unscientifically calculate that the G-05 has enough additives for 3 or so years the first time it is used and for a full 5 years the second time if care was taken to not introduce tap water or other coolants. The Dexclone I give 1 year the first use and 2 years the second.
 
I use Mopar Long life as OEM in the Caravan,as I have looked at aftermarket "gold" replacement and it seems very diluted and thin even in concentrate form.Cant imagine how clear it would become after cutting it 50% with water.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
I use Mopar Long life as OEM in the Caravan,as I have looked at aftermarket "gold" replacement and it seems very diluted and thin even in concentrate form.Cant imagine how clear it would become after cutting it 50% with water.


Dye color has nothing to do with the chemical makeup. Numerous links indicate that ZEREX made the Mopar coolant when it was first introduced: http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/G05-Glysantin.php

And the current ZEREX site description says it's the original factory fill:

"Zerex™ G-05 is the original full chemistry in newer Ford & Daimler Chrysler vehicles. Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion."


Like KrizZ, I stick with the OEM chemistry and get it at the lowest easily available cost, OTC usually. Unless you're nursing a beater, why quibble about saving $5 -$15 over a 5 year+ time period for something that is worth many thousands of dollars. Penny wise/pound foolish IMO.
 
I use Zerex Asian coolant in my Camry with no problems. Can't abide paying $30.00 + gallon for the OEM. I always thought Ashland probably made Toyota's coolant.
 
I can see the reason for either one other than price (which is the big one usually):

OTC: you don't have to stock too many coolant at home and worry about half empty bottles, and you can get concentrate one if you want to do a flush instead of a drain and fill (i.e. after a head gasket job or after you found corrosion and want to use chemical flush).

OEM: a tested formula that is not compromised for jack of all trade compatibility, and focus on what works and the longest life (i.e. 10 year 150k miles instead of 5 year 150k miles), and you know if something went south it is not the coolant compatibility of your system so you can focus on something else.
 
G-05 (BASF formula) is tap water resistant. Germans have been traditionally strong chemists. If you switch, it's a laborious process: drain, flush with distilled water, refill with the distilled water and add cleaner, run for 3-6 hours, flush with distilled water, fill with the new coolant. Caterpillar is the strongest coolant. But they also demand this kind of clean-up before you switch.

SLLC from Toyota is a good one, but has a tendency to cause seeping sometimes. Ebay is a good place to procure it, watch for case deals. I keep using SLLC as long there are no signs of seeping on my current vehicles. The ones that were doing that had been running G-05 for hundreds of thousands miles with success. My experience is based on LX470 only.
 
Unanimous price sensitive based on thread responses.

I still believe almost every joe would still avoid OTC coolants just to be safe or those who don't know how to flush the system to make way for new low priced readily available tonic.
 
It would be nice if we had more accessible standards for coolant, akin to API or ACEA oil, so people had some idea. It doesn't help that so many coolants are advertised as being for anything and everything under the sun.

The dealers are expensive for coolant up here. On the flip side, Walmart and Canadian Tire aren't a lot better, except when on sale. Where there is a real, identifiable product (i.e. G-05), Walmart and CT do beat the Chrysler dealer. The Asian Prestone at WM, where I can find it, is not a better deal than OEM Nissan Infiniti coolant, especially since the latter is concentrated.
 
I use Supertech all makes all models in my s10 because it's cheap and works fine. I changed from oem after I did the intake manifold gasket replace.
 
I'll be a bit of an odd duck and say availability is a driving factor for me. If I were to go to my Mitsu dealership, I'd need to drive 30 min each way. My NAPA shop is 5. If an OTC will work, why am I driving so far out of my way?
 
I was able to get toyota coolant for $16 a gallon, which is the reason I went with it over the Zerex ($14). I figured at that price I'd just stick with the factory stuff, but I have no problem using zerex.

As long as you're putting the right stuff in and changing it regularly, you shouldn't have any issues.
 
Originally Posted By: doublebase
I was able to get toyota coolant for $16 a gallon, which is the reason I went with it over the Zerex ($14). I figured at that price I'd just stick with the factory stuff, but I have no problem using zerex.

As long as you're putting the right stuff in and changing it regularly, you shouldn't have any issues.


OH MAN! The Toyota RED is $32 here! Double! And the Lexus dealer wants ~ $36 for the RED!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top